Woodlandpro Bars?

[IyaMan]

(This will be re-posted in the "milling" forum as it applies to both)

I was curious about the durability and strength of WoodlandPro bars. I got the bar with a husky saw from Baileys, and its a "Powermax RSN" large mount, .050. It has a separate nose section (as in, its not all one piece). Its fairly new, about a month old.

I ask this because I am attaching a Granberg mill. At first I noticed that the screw pinches against the bar with the mill were marking the bar (digging in hardly a millimeter) and I thought it strange to be so soft to make such marks.... or maybe it was just me scoring the paint layer?.

Then a couple days ago I did a modification on the mill and drilled a hole through the center of the sprocket. I put in an 8mm hole (a bit less than 3/8 inch). To say the least, it drilled through much easier than expected. Now from researching here, I expected the bar to be pretty tough, especially the nose. People have said "use only carbide tip" or "use a concrete bit" and of course "use plenty of lubricant oil poured on while drilling". I will say I did use my drill press and knocked it down to the lowest drill speed (highest torque) setting, but I had none of the trouble anyone else mentioned. Definitely not "just about melted my bit".

Certainly it was hard metal, but my cheapo drill bit which came in a $10 set of 13 different sized bits (I think it says it made of 'colbolt alloy') had little of the trouble I imagined going through.

Are other people's bars made of adamantium or something? Why would anyone even consider using a concrete bit? (I can barely drill through soft-wood with one of them) And though I've used lubricant with high speed precision bits, whenever doing bigger holes (over 3mm or 1/8") I've never use oil unless its more than 3/4" deep (18mm). On wider holes I just slow the drill speed down and let the bit do its business on its own without forcing it. Never had any unmanageable issues (though I do freehand sharpen bits now and then on my grinder).

Or is my WoodlandPro bar particularly soft? Granted this isn't a Shindaiwa hard nosed bar, but I was expecting a bit more resistance. Has anyone had much long-term durability trouble with WoodlandPro bars? Bending/warping issues? Sprocket malfunction? Uneven wear or deformation? Any input welcome. Thanks.

 

[deezlfan]

True Cobalt Steel drill bits are specifically intended for drilling hard metals like stainless and titanium. But I seriously doubt you could buy a set of real cobalt bits for ten dollars.

Also, the rails of the bar are induction hardened, not the whole bar. It would be somewhat softer in the areas you are describing.

 

[deezlfan]

Now from researching here, I expected the bar to be pretty tough, especially the nose. People have said "use only carbide tip" or "use a concrete bit" and of course "use plenty of lubricant oil poured on while drilling". I will say I did use my drill press and knocked it down to the lowest drill speed (highest torque) setting, but I had none of the trouble anyone else mentioned. Definitely not "just about melted my bit".

I would guess that a masonry bit is something most guys might have laying around and since they do have a carbide insert brazed to the end, it would be cheaper than buying a proper drill bit. And while you may be able to drill steel with one with some success, the masonry bit's shape and profile is in no way designed to drill metal.

 

[CR888]

I believed woodland pro bars are rebranded 'Cannon' bars made in Canada. Cannon has a long history of producing very high quality bars with price tags to match. Deiselfan above has give good info and what he says is true about the 'rails' being hardened not the main bar body. I have yet to hear of a quality issue regarding woodland pro bars.

 

[IyaMan]

Thanks for the input everyone. Happy to hear WoodlandPro bars are good quality. I don't know if they cost more or less than others as it just came with the saw, but its good to hear they are Canon re-brand. I didn't drill the main body, I drilled the nose (its a separate piece on this bar) but I guess the nose rails are hardened in the same way. I put this thread in the milling forum too and got a similar answer about hardening, but also that sometimes the whole bar is hardened, and sometimes it just the nose or the rails, or any combo therein.

One thing I think people make a mistake with is that they try to drill at too high a speed. In hard metals that just creates too much friction and would indeed burn the bit.

As for my cheapo cobolt bit set, as I said, it says "cobolt alloy" on the plastic case and its made for drilling stainless steel. This is the best I can translate it as since its in Japanese (I live in Japan) and I'm not so good with metallurgy terms. I too doubt its pure cobolt. I suppose I paid about $13 at the given exchange rate of the time a few years ago, but it'd only be about $9 nowadays if sold at the same yen price today. Yeah, its strange, some things in Japan are crazy expensive (which is why I bought the saw at Baileys and had it sent here), but others things like high-end tools that are made here can be pretty cheap. Another example is how Silky hand saws run at less than half the price here than they do in the US.

 

[CR888]

I just noticed your from Japan and are interested in metallurgy. Well the only two places in the world that press super high grade steel are Germany & Japan! Your country is great with metal and make have two bar brands that are regarded as very high quality chainsaw bars. Sugihara & Tsumura. If I lived in Japan I'd be interested in a tour of their factories, they take good pride in the products they produce. They both strive to make the best bars money can buy.......most who use them would agree that's exactly what they do.

 

[Little Al]

I believed woodland pro bars are rebranded 'Cannon' bars made in Canada. Cannon has a long history of producing very high quality bars with price tags to match. Deiselfan above has give good info and what he says is true about the 'rails' being hardened not the main bar body. I have yet to hear of a quality issue regarding woodland pro bars.

I was always led to believe that Wood land Pro were a Blount re badge but if wrong I stand corrected .

 

[BigRed96]

I have three Woodland Pro bars and have been extremely satisfied with them. I have a 24" on my 390 and have used it a ton and the bar is holding up well.

 

[IyaMan]

Your country is great with metal and make have two bar brands that are regarded as very high quality chainsaw bars. Sugihara & Tsumura.

Yeah, famously made here, but actually a bit cheaper in the US than in Japan. Go figure. Actually, I've looked quite a bit online and have not yet seen a Sugihara bar sold in Japan for .050 at 3/8 for any longer than 45cm (18"). I was looking to get a 24" bar here but at that gauge it just isn't available in Japan, only .058 and .063.

Must be due to demand. Very few trees need more than a 20" bar here, and it'd only be softwood if it was. (kind of like television in Japan: some of the best quality TVs for watching some of the world's worst quality content.... which is why I don't own a TV)

 

[amberg]

I have a 18" and a 24" woodland pro bars, Very happy with them so far, Don't cost a arm and leg either.