Working on building a sawmill

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aarolar

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Started working on a sawmill at work sharing for input. Ran the head for a few seconds today and it tracked fine. Next week I'll start working on making the head work up and down.
 

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Looks Good, thanks for posting the pics.

This is just a small think but was there a particular reason you put the major separator/brace between the wheels on the cutting blade side of the wheel axis?
It seems to me that being able to make as deep a cut as possible would enable multiple cuts to be made on a can't without stopping to remove the cut lumber.

I was looking at the pics and it looks like the brace could be flipped to the top but then the belt might get in the way. Nothing that couldn't be fixed though.
 
If I had put the bearings on bottom the tangent of the drive pulley would have been above the tangent of the driven pulley interfering with the band and there was no good way to lower the motor down. As it stands I have a 5" depth of cut and I don't ever see myself cutting more than one board without removing the previous first.
 
My shop made mill from 20+ years ago has a similar design, I have 7" over the blade. While I've never wished for multiple cuts without removing the boards, the design falls short for doing true quarter sawing. Unless your log is less than 14" dia. It is a strong design though, I've never had anything fail, no tracking issues either. My wheels are 24" dia, yours look about the same? Only thing I can add is running it with no guards is a risky deal, I had brand new blades break at the weld years ago, and one of my first wheels "let loose" as in flew apart -
 
This is just a small think but was there a particular reason you put the major separator/brace between the wheels on the cutting blade side of the wheel axis?

I was looking at the pics and it looks like the brace could be flipped to the top but then the belt might get in the way. Nothing that couldn't be fixed though.

Bob makes a good point. It looks like you could just unbolt you PB bearings and remount on the underside.

To get the drive belt out of the way, a simple idler pulley would help re-route the belt up and back over to the engine. Put it in a slot and it makes a dandy tensioner for the drive belt too.


If I had put the bearings on bottom the tangent of the drive pulley would have been above the tangent of the driven pulley interfering with the band and there was no good way to lower the motor down. As it stands I have a 5" depth of cut and I don't ever see myself cutting more than one board without removing the previous first.

Since you have plenty of shafting between your PB bearings, you could always add another pulley/sheave behind the current one to become your "new" drive pulley. Then the problem of intersecting tangents is resolved. This will also help reduce vibration transferred to the blade body and, in turn, increase your blade life .... Saves you money over the long haul.

You're probably going to want more than 5" above the blade. When breaking down logs and then working with cants, it is nice to have the extra room. I have 12" above my blade and there have been times I've had it nearly full. A fella I sharpen blades for, has a small mill w/ 6-1/2" above the blade and he often wishes he had a couple more inches ... makes for more cuts/work.

Leaving boards on the cant as you saw has positive benefits. The weight of the boards helps hold the cant down to the bunks. You'd be surprised how much it will decrease boards having thick-n-thin dimensions. But sometimes there are logs that you take one board off and you have to turn it 180*... just full of stress.


BTW, looks great so far ;)
 
Eventually I plan to upgrade motors and when I do at that point I intend to use a secondary pulley to get the SFM up on the blade, at that time I may switch the bearings to up the throat depth. The first task for this mill involves sawing a lot of planted pines up into lumber so I should be fine.
 
Sorry I missed you, Had a look at your mill. I'm interested because I too am building a mill. Your last post was in a while ago.

Wondering if you've done more on your mill.

I'll check back to see if you add a post. Maybe we can compare notes. Have a great day.

Richard
 
I'm interested too in how this turns out as I am considering building one myself.

Is the engine direct drive? Do you have gearing/reduction/a clutch?
 

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