Your cost to have saw chains ground?

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Billy_Bob

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If you don't grind your own chains, what is your cost to have your saw chains ground? Square ground? Round ground?

(I have a friend who wants me to grind his chains for him, but have no idea what to charge. This would be for 460 bucking saws probably 32" bars. They use both square and round ground chains.)
 
around here--guy grinds them for 5--but he doesnt touch the depth cutters--done a few of his--i charge 7 for that very reason--these are 24 and under--over that i believe id charge more--
 
If you don't grind your own chains, what is your cost to have your saw chains ground? Square ground? Round ground?

(I have a friend who wants me to grind his chains for him, but have no idea what to charge. This would be for 460 bucking saws probably 32" bars. They use both square and round ground chains.)

Do you have a square chain grinder? Eight dollars is the going rate here. That includes the rakers.
 
I was paying $10 a loop for square ground and rakers, 32-36". The old timer did a real nice job, so I didn't mind paying a little extra(saw shop wanted $8 without rakers and always fouled 'em up)...
 
to expand on frickmans post, why would a logger grind a chain? Rocked maybe? I totally destroyed a 32" chain when i found a hidden nail when cutting up a big fir. At first I was going to file it, but then I had the saw shop grind it.

I destroyed about 1/2" the cutter uniformly on the entire length of the chain, which they ground out but never touched the rakers!! I didn't notice it until i got home, but I just assumed the process was automated to where I didn't need to specify to grind the rakers.
 
I know how to file my chains the way I like them. Normally I will carry a spare chain with me when we cut fire line. Normally if I run square chisel personally, I will take it down and get it ground. Other than that, round chisel, I will do by hand. It's good to get a break sometimes. :cheers:
 
Used to be $5 for a 32" loop cut round. $7 for a square both with the drags in that price that guy did a damn good job. He is closed down now and the next two places are round only and no drags for $13.99 and $14.99 skip chain. Full comp is half again as much then every tooth is blued and burred somethin fierce. Been rat holing some bucks working on getting my own round grinder. My hands don't like that file so much any more, I ain't that old yet either.


Owl
 
You guys out west must get them ground to save time. Those long bars you use hold a lot of saw teeth. You surely know how to file a saw.

Actually since I got my grinders, I don't file so much. The grinder can grind each cutter to exactly the same height/angle and does a much better job than I can do by hand. And as said, much easier on my poor fingers and hands! I do need to hand file the rakers though.

So I just carry spare chains and switch chains when needed. (I use square ground chains myself mostly.)
 
Around here this year it was $7.00 off the saw and $9.00 on the saw for 24" and under round, I broke down and bought a grinder to handle the rocked out chains and hand file the rest, wasn't going to pay 7.00 between me and the two boys the grinder more than offset it's purchase price this year and I can control how much is taken off, getting longer chain life than from the local shop.
 
Used to be $5 for a 32" loop cut round. $7 for a square both with the drags in that price that guy did a damn good job. He is closed down now and the next two places are round only and no drags for $13.99 and $14.99 skip chain. Full comp is half again as much then every tooth is blued and burred somethin fierce. Been rat holing some bucks working on getting my own round grinder. My hands don't like that file so much any more, I ain't that old yet either.


Owl

There are days when it is hard to hold a file. Then the grinder comes on.
 
There are days when it is hard to hold a file. Then the grinder comes on.

Try a golf ball as a handle. Fits the hand nicely.
attachment.php
 
Try a golf ball as a handle. Fits the hand nicely.
attachment.php

Does the file wiggle in the ball handle or is it held tight? Looks like a fine idea, being able to use more palm than finger. That would surely make things easier when you have a few to work over. After breaking both hands among other things to them this looks like it has definate possibilities. Just another tool in the box and everything helps in it's own time(s). Do ya drill first or just pound them into the golf ball? Have you ever tried a ball on each end?

Rep comming


Owl
 
Drill a hole in the golf ball smaller than the file tang. Then tap the handle on - fits very snug as the file tang is tapered. Use newer balls which are solid. The old balls were wound rubber - like a super long rubber band. Ask a buddy that golfs for the balls.
 

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