Thread: E-classic 2300 OWB Advice / Help / Anything

I bought an E-classic 2300 used a couple years ago and recently installed it. Due to cutting the road for my driveway and my building lot I saved up a lot of wood hardwood and softwood. I piled this wood and it sat for about 2 years. I recently finished my house and since i was buildg my house i dident have any time for firewood and am burning the wood i cut when doing the road and the lot.

When I fist started using the stove it but out heat just great... now thos POS wont even burn wood. When it does burn, it burns a hollow spot in the wood and the logs jam in the sides and dont fall down, so it goes out, other tikes it just goes out. It rearly gets up to proper operating tempature and the house is always cold. I have cleaned the POS compleatly and looked in the valves in the back with a flashlight for "The gooey gummed up mess" some people have talked about. I did the "Paperclip trick" that some people mentioned, and that still will not work. At the moment I am away from home for two days and my wife is stuck at home trying to keep that F%#@%@ piece going. When I return I will pull the valves off the back and see if I can see anything clogging them. Like I said due to my lack of time when i was building i dident do much fpor wood, and not all of it is the dryest and has not been split (though its not large wood).

Anyone at all have any kind of advice as to what I can try? Difrent dryer wood is not an option this year.

Thanks

Just wondering, but what do you have the operating temp set at? Also, concerning the wood, get it stacked up and covered if possible. Burning wet, moldy, rotten wood takes alot of your available BTUs and uses it to dry said wood. Other than that, is your pump circulating or has it ran afoul? Just some things to look at when you can. I would start on wood for next year now that the house is finished.

Shea

Originally Posted by morewood

Just wondering, but what do you have the operating temp set at? Also, concerning the wood, get it stacked up and covered if possible. Burning wet, moldy, rotten wood takes alot of your available BTUs and uses it to dry said wood. Other than that, is your pump circulating or has it ran afoul? Just some things to look at when you can. I would start on wood for next year now that the house is finished.

Shea

I think the operating temp is 182, I have gotten it up to that before, The wood isent totally rotten, I have to wait until spring to get wood, because of our snow here. I know that the circulator is working fine. I am thinking the air holes need cleaning

I don't believe they'll tolerate wet wood. Split a piece of wood that you think is dry, odds are you'll be able to feel the dampness. Invest in a moisture meter, maybe burn some of that stuff in your avatar?

chances are your "fusion cumbuster" is cracked if it hasn't been replaced.It won't gassify if cracked . Look down through the half moon shaped hole into the reaction chamber. YOu need to contact Central boiler for updates to this boiler. Mine was built in March of 2009. It now has updated cumbuster,holes in primary air channles, a shiny new free set of tools for servicing & a new manual for a better understanding of how it works.. I have never had to use the paperclip but soft wood doesn't leave coals like hard does. CALL Central Boiler for some updates & visit forestryforum for losts of info.

No cracks or anything, I just needed to clean the ash from the air ports, I am new to these stoves and did see hoe they worked and how the air came in. I pulled both valves, one had a little dry debree in it but not bad, cleaned them anyway. then I cleaned the firebox and air holes, and also stacked the wood in there parellel with the door. and lit it. I did not wait for the operating temp to be 150 before turning on the circ because it was late at night and i wanted to sleep by then. However In the morning it was burning and at 118, I stoked it and now its 120, so hopefully ill get some heat from this POS today. The wood i am burning is quite wet so it takes a day or two to get hot enough to burn well.

No disrespect, but it sounds as if the problem is not with the stove, but your choice of wood. Blaming the unit for your error in not having dry wood to burn is akin to blaming a car manufacturer because you put bad gas in it.

Get some good dry hardwood in there and I suspect YOUR problems will go away.

I suspect it is some user error, and some wood issues, however I had used the old style for years and burned questionable wood at times with no issues. The reason I am stuck with this wood is that I was building my house and had no time to do real firewood. This wood was cut 2-3 years ago however when piled up outside uncovered, it never really dried. This is gonna be a tough winter. Once its over I have all summer to do real wood getting. I will be heating mostly with blow downs, but i will atleast be splitting them and stacking them in a decent fassion.
Hopefully that will allow some of it to dry by fall. Its been a warm winter here so far and I am hoping we get lucky all year.
seems like lastyear when i had no roof, we got tons of snow every day..

nek vt
Sorry it took so long to respond to your message. Check your inbox. Also I had the same problem as you have stated in your pst last year. It is deffinetly wood that is wet. I put up a storage shed 21 by 24 for my wood this year and what a difference in the owbs performace. Dry seasoned wood is a must for good results.

Originally Posted by darnet

nek vt
Sorry it took so long to respond to your message. Check your inbox. Also I had the same problem as you have stated in your pst last year. It is deffinetly wood that is wet. I put up a storage shed 21 by 24 for my wood this year and what a difference in the owbs performace. Dry seasoned wood is a must for good results.

Yeah, My father keeps his in a storage shed too, I am hoping to get one next year. It's very frusterating not knowing if its the stove, or me or the wood or what. So it is nice to hear that someone else has been down this road and dry wood fixed the problem.

Based on what you post it sounds like the problem is the wood. Just to make sure why not go out and find a small load of really dry wood
and run the stove with the new wood for a few days. As others have mentioned, these boilers require very dry wood to operate properly. Running
a few hot fires may also help to burn off some of the creosote that is likely compounding your problems.

Central boiler sent out every owner of this stove a thermostat housing to be installed inline. It is to stop flow to the home until the water temp is 170 minimum. If your boiler still has fire brick on the sides you are to remove it and run temp @ 185 or higher to stop corrosion and from what your saying about wet wood you need to look into it soon

Crappy wet wood makes crappy heat.

Gettin better heat now than i had, now that the coals are hot. My stove has all the updates, I am lucky i dident install that mixing valve though or i would have no heat at all since i am not even close to 170. However its very cold out today and we are warm, so i aint complaning, afgter this wood is gone ill mabye be able to get some dry wood, we will see how long this last me, Most of my problems last week was due to the air holes not clean and the wood being wet.
Though i have said sevral times in this thread, the wood is wet and i know that the problem, I am sure i will still get 5 more people telling me its the wet wood lol.

Originally Posted by NEK VT

Gettin better heat now than i had, now that the coals are hot. My stove has all the updates, I am lucky i dident install that mixing valve though or i would have no heat at all since i am not even close to 170. However its very cold out today and we are warm, so i aint complaning, afgter this wood is gone ill mabye be able to get some dry wood, we will see how long this last me, Most of my problems last week was due to the air holes not clean and the wood being wet.
Though i have said sevral times in this thread, the wood is wet and i know that the problem, I am sure i will still get 5 more people telling me its the wet wood lol.

You might be unlucky you didn't install the mixing valve. It is meant for return water protection to reduce condensation in the firebox. Running it at low temp could seriously reduce the life of your boiler. Low temps combined with high moisture content wood is a bad combination.

Higher water jacket temps would help the boiler gasify, but the high moisture content actually extinguishes the gasification flame, its hard to burn water vapor...

gg