Thread: synthetic oil in splitter?

Is there much bennifit in running synthetic oil in my log splitter engine? Seems like i read somwhere on here thats its a good idea and cheap so why not do it. Any down falls of it? I have a huskee 22ton with briggs engine.

synthetic oil 'aint cheap,,when compared to conventional oil, which 'aint cheap either these days.

full synthetic oil is a superior oil when compared to conventional oil for lubrication and longevity in an internal combustion engine. 'specially if a person is negligent in the maintenance of their equipment and don't keep the air filter clean and/or don't change the oil as often as they should.

is the additional expense of synthetics worth it ?? i would guess it is, however, i keep an eye on the maintenance of all the old, well used , run down clapped-out junk i own and run a "top shelf" standard oil.

It can't hurt, but if you change your oil once a year or so, you're probably fine with regular oil. It's up to you though.

I don't run my splitter enough to worry about the motor life difference between regular and synthetic.

No negatives other than cost.

As I understand, synthetic motor oil is a good choice for older small engines, ones that have a lot of hours.

Originally Posted by Fred Wright

As I understand, synthetic motor oil is a good choice for older small engines, ones that have a lot of hours.

Actually, its just the opposite. Older engines that get switched to synthetic may develop engine oil leaks at the seals, especially in the crank seals. Synthetic oil is thinner, and may work its way past worn seals.Also, older engines have seals that may deteriorate from use of synthetic oils. Best bet is to follow the engine manufacturers recommendations if its an older machine.

is regular 5w30 too thin for michigan summers? Up to 90 deg. F

Originally Posted by aaronmach1

is regular 5w30 too thin for michigan summers? Up to 90 deg. F

I'd think straight 30 would be your best bet during the summer.

When I was running hydraulics, I found that one BIG benefit of synthetic oil was cold-cranking the engine. Made it much easier to crank an 8-horse one-lunger when the temps were down in the teens. Never saw any reason to change the oil; mid-summer is time for beach or mountains, 'round here.

NOt trying to be a smart A55 but can someone point me to where it says that a "synthetic" oil is "more lubricating" or less something or other? I think this is a myth that needs to be debunked. I feel yes synth might be thinner at lower temps but not sure if its at all any "better" for a small engine crankcase. Where a synthetic oil surpasses a conventional is in its "long term" use stabilities. So if you are the type that doesn't change oil often you are better served with a Synth, if you change your oil and filter regularly save your $. you guys can read all you want to @ bobistheoilguy.com....basically its the "arboristsite" for oils.

Flame suit on....

Originally Posted by aaronmach1

Is there much bennifit in running synthetic oil in my log splitter engine? Seems like i read somwhere on here thats its a good idea and cheap so why not do it. Any down falls of it? I have a huskee 22ton with briggs engine.

I can't really attest scientifically to any real benefits . And synthetic does cost a bit more to buy.
Howevever,having said that,I've gone with Scheaffers # 264 in ISO 32 . The splitter seems happier on cold starts . If really warm weather is your concern try ISO 46 . but the 32 seems to work well in our temps ( w.pa ).

Originally Posted by angelo c

NOt trying to be a smart A55 but can someone point me to where it says that a "synthetic" oil is "more lubricating" or less something or other? I think this is a myth that needs to be debunked. I feel yes synth might be thinner at lower temps but not sure if its at all any "better" for a small engine crankcase. Where a synthetic oil surpasses a conventional is in its "long term" use stabilities. So if you are the type that doesn't change oil often you are better served with a Synth, if you change your oil and filter regularly save your $. you guys can read all you want to @ bobistheoilguy.com....basically its the "arboristsite" for oils.

Flame suit on....

We were doing studies in thermodynamics in college using oil. The professor specified to use synthetic because is lubricating/viscosity properties changed very little over time therefore keeping our results more consistent. So I guess it would help lubrication over time as the oil's impurities were exposed and heat-treated. I'm no oil expert, but I can see where it may apply, not sure though.

Really you’ll be missing the biggest advantage to using synthetic oil if you use it in a small engine… that would be the longevity (unless your small engine is pressure lubed and filtered). Small engines, without oil filters, need to have the oil changed at the same interval no matter what oil you pour in them… because oil contamination is what’s doing the damage way before the oil breaks-down enough to be a player. In my mind it’s just a waste of cold, hard cash to use synthetics in small engines when good quality conventional oil offers the same exact protection and longevity.

My fleet of small engines gets 10w30 for summer time use, 5w30 for spring and fall use, and the couple I use through the dead of winter get 5w20 when the temps really start dropping. I believe in changing oil often in small engines… at least twice a year, the ones used more often get it 3 times, and the ones used heavy year ‘round get 4 oil changes a year. And I always change the oil before I put any small engine away for a couple months, no matter how short-time the oil has been in it… I want clean oil in any engine just sitting (dirty, contaminated oil is highly corrosive). Right or wrong it’s worked for me, I ain’t broke one yet… the 10 horse Tecumseh on my old wood haulin’ garden tractor is near 45 years old and starts at 20^o below zero (still doesn’t use any oil to speak of), the 20 year old JD lawn tractor/mower has a 12.5 horse Kohler that still starts at a touch of the key, runs perfect (and doesn’t use any oil), the 30+ year old splitter has a 7 horse Tecumseh that still runs perfect (uses a little oil if I really work it hard and I did have to replace the head gasket last year), pressure washer with a 3.5 B&S from the early 90’s (but the damn water pump went belly-up this spring), garden tillers, snow blowers, etc., etc., etc….. Keep the oil clean, keep the air filter clean and you'll do those engines more good than any synthetic oil ever could.

I’ve never purchased a single quart of synthetic oil in my life.

Synthetic has many benefits for any engine.

First is it's temp stability. It pretty much remains in the same state within any normal temp range, so it is not "Thicker" and slower flowing in the cold, or thinner in the heat, which helps with both protection and ease of starts in the cold, and in the heat.

Synthetics have a Longer carbon chain, hence they are more "durable" in the effect of taking longer to break down.
As Dino gets used, the carbon chains start to get broken down and "Chopped up", same thing with synth, but because they are loinger to start with, they protect from wear longer and at a wider temp range.

The wives tail about causing seals and gaskets to leak on older engines has some merit based upon the older synth formulations that weren't as advanced as the ones we have today that effectively compensate. Some brands nowdays have better sealing additives than others, and actually can be used to slow down small weeping leaks. Valvoline and thier various relabeled stuff like NAPA and Parts master has worked pretty good for us in that capacity.

5-30 is still 30wt and should be fine for Mich summers.
We run exactly that or 10-30 synth in our splitters Honda and several GX series field pumps that run all summer.
Cold starts are a LOT easier in the winter.

As for cost? $4.19 a qt. and it's rebadged Valvoline that meets the same specs.
http://www.autoparts2020.com/rsdev/p..._ID=4200&cat=2

NAPA has frequent sales on thier rebadged Synthetics that bring the price down to plain old Dino as well.

Even at a dollar a quart difference, it's worth it over the life of a hard use air cooled motor IMO.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

Misread the thread . I was thinking hyd. Fluids . As far as engine oil .... Husqvarna xp four cycle oil , or Rotella t6 .