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Thread: new saw!

  1. 05-07-2012, 03:27 AM #1
    aaronmach1
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    new saw!

    I cut all my wood last year (first year burning was last year) and this year so far with my stihl ms170 with a 16" bar. Actually a really good running saw and ive cut alot of trees down that were way to big for that saw. I posted a video last week in the saw section and a few people told me i how dumb i was for using such a small saw on a tree so big.
    Finally after reading a few posts and doing some research over the last week, i decided i was getting a new saw. It came down to 2 saws, either a ms250 or a ms290. I knew i wanted as light as possible and after talking with my neighbor who has the ms290,so on saturday i bought a brand new ms250 with 18" bar.
    Wow what a huge differance from the ms170! I feel like i need to be alot more carefull now with this saw. Alot more power than my little 170! So far im lovin this 250 and i found the more i cut with it, the more power it seems to get. I have only ran 4 tanks so far and they say 5 to 15 is the breakin period. Looks like ill be keeping the 170 and 16" bar as a second saw for limbs etc. since it gets really good gas mileage.
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  2. 05-07-2012, 04:02 AM #2
    porta mill
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    you are not dumb for using a small saw . It was what you had at the time and you made the best or if .I have 2 Ms290's 1with a 20" bar and and 1 with a 18" bar and believe it or not I use my ms 170 quite a bit .use the appropriat saw for the job when you have the approprite saw if not make due with what you have . good luck with the new saw.
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  3. 05-07-2012, 04:55 AM #3
    Whitespider
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    I see that Stihl has the 250 on sale right now... $299.oo.
    If'n a guy wanted a new 250, now would be the time no doubt. That saw has a lot of features for a (so labeled) "occasional use" saw... a lot of saw for 300 bucks... and only weighs 10 pounds.
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  4. 05-07-2012, 05:00 AM #4
    aaronmach1
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whitespider View Post
    I see that Stihl has the 250 on sale right now... $299.oo.
    If'n a guy wanted a new 250, now would be the time no doubt. That saw has a lot of features for a (so labeled) "occasional use" saw... a lot of saw for 300 bucks... and only weighs 10 pounds.
    yes, everything that lead me to it. especially the weight. Does anyone know what the little screen on the muffler is for? Does removing it on both my saws have any bennifit or power increases?
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  5. 05-07-2012, 05:08 AM #5
    mooseracing
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    Quote Originally Posted by aaronmach1 View Post
    Does anyone know what the little screen on the muffler is for? Does removing it on both my saws have any bennifit or power increases?
    Should be a spark arrestor so you don't catch the woods on fire.
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  6. 05-07-2012, 05:18 AM #6
    Whitespider
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    Yeah, the screen is a spark arrestor, don’t remove it ‘cause it ain’t gonna’ make any difference in saw power… but keep it clean, don’t let it get plugged with carbon, soot and such (if your saw is running proper it won’t plug-up). You could probably do some modifications to the mufflers that would increase performance; that usually means you’ll need to re-tune the carb… and I’m not sure you can do that with these new “EPA” carbs without further modifications. Best not mess with modifications unless you know what you’re doing… or have someone that does know to give you some help and direction.
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  7. 05-07-2012, 06:59 AM #7
    tomsteve
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    got me an ms250 last year. she really started scremin after about 10 tanks.
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  8. 05-07-2012, 07:05 AM #8
    aaronmach1
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomsteve View Post
    got me an ms250 last year. she really started scremin after about 10 tanks.
    thanks thats good to hear! have you or anyone noticed it being a gas hog? seems like it to me. Or maybe im just used to my little ms170 sipping the gas.
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  9. 05-07-2012, 08:32 AM #9
    H 2 H
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    Cool

    Put these on a new 250 and you'll be happy camper



    250 isn't a gas hog
    Brian

    Like what has been said many many times here on AS
    Once you run a modified saw you'll never go back to a stock chain saw ever again !


    Some people need thick skin

    Those that declare that they (029/290) won't hold up bc of the lack of pro design
    are merely ill-informed or are ignorant.

    It doen't look good to anyone else I guess, except maybe for a few "brand fans".

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  10. 05-07-2012, 08:44 AM #10
    aaronmach1
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    Quote Originally Posted by H 2 H View Post
    Put these on a new 250 and you'll be happy camper



    250 isn't a gas hog
    great! are these the yellow chains? Ive noticed the 250 grabs and kicks alot compared to my 170.Im just afraid of kickback now and i really wasnt with the 170. Would the yellow chain be alot worse than the green?
    Last edited by aaronmach1; 05-07-2012 at 09:30 AM.
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  11. 05-07-2012, 10:25 AM #11
    Whitespider
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    The kickback difference between the green and yellow chain aint how hard or violent the kickback will be rather its how likely, or how often the kickback event will happen. The green chain is just a bit less likely to kickback, but when it does the violence of the kickback may be the same. Actually the less powerful saws are more likely to kickback

    The best way to avoid injury (or worse) during a kickback event is safe cutting technique i.e. be aware of kickback (and what causes it) at all times, watch the tip of your bar, keep a firm two-handed hold on the saw, keep the saw at full throttle during the cut, and position yourself slightly to the side of the bar (a good rule-of-thumb is if you cannot read the lettering on the bar youre standing too directly in the line of likely kickback). Of course PPE is always a good idea also, but it aint a substitute for bad technique. Im bettin most of us have experienced a violent kickback event (I know I have more than once) and until it happens until you feel it its hard to explain just how forceful it can be.
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  12. 05-07-2012, 10:35 AM #12
    KenJax Tree
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    It usually happens when i'm cutting off a stump when it binds up a little bit the saw will kick straight back but nothing that came at my face or anything like that.


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  13. 05-07-2012, 10:38 AM #13
    aaronmach1
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whitespider View Post
    The kickback difference between the green and yellow chain aint how hard or violent the kickback will be rather its how likely, or how often the kickback event will happen. The green chain is just a bit less likely to kickback, but when it does the violence of the kickback may be the same. Actually the less powerful saws are more likely to kickback

    The best way to avoid injury (or worse) during a kickback event is safe cutting technique i.e. be aware of kickback (and what causes it) at all times, watch the tip of your bar, keep a firm two-handed hold on the saw, keep the saw at full throttle during the cut, and position yourself slightly to the side of the bar (a good rule-of-thumb is if you cannot read the lettering on the bar youre standing too directly in the line of likely kickback). Of course PPE is always a good idea also, but it aint a substitute for bad technique. Im bettin most of us have experienced a violent kickback event (I know I have more than once) and until it happens until you feel it its hard to explain just how forceful it can be.
    i guess ill have to find a good scource on what causes kickback. Im just paranoid because my grandpa a few years ago before he passed away got some bad kickback and cut his face bad. why do you say little saws kickback more? ive never noticed it on my 170.
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  14. 05-07-2012, 10:47 AM #14
    KenJax Tree
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    Just always make sure the tip of your bar is clear especially the top half but like other have said the best way to prevent it is to know what causes it.

    Until you figure out the causes of kickback i would stick to the green chain.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37xodIuufaQ
    Last edited by KenJax Tree; 05-07-2012 at 10:55 AM.


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  15. 05-07-2012, 11:04 AM #15
    Whitespider
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    Kickback occurs when he cutting teeth hook or grab something solid (such as wood, a stray branch, fence wire, etc.) as they roll over the top of the bar tip (never use the bar tip to cut unless you know what you're doing). A more powerful saw has a better chance of cutting through the contact and they also weigh more... Cutting at full throttle puts more power to the chain, making it more likely to cut through the contact rather than kickback.

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