file wear

**hammerlogging** · 08-16-2009, 04:08 PM

Folks,
Any suggestions on how I can get my $6.75 files (double bevel for square ground chain) last longer? I swear I can't get more than a week out of each one, especially if its a wet week, which this time of year, with all the sweat, everything is pretty much wet all week.

Say I file 4 times a day. Not rocked chains, just touch ups.

They're the ones Madsen's sells.

Thanks.

**SWE#Kipp** · 08-17-2009, 01:20 AM

do they clog up out in the field ??
I always cut across the top of stump before i file to get oil and sawdust of the teeth and seems to help, a small brass brush is also useful to keep the file clean and working (and last a bit longer).

Good luck

**Greystoke** · 08-17-2009, 07:09 AM

I always tap mine out on the side of my bar every other tooth or so to clean it, and drag it through the sleeve of my shirt on a backstroke too. Also I only touch my file to the tooth on the forward stroke(not the backstroke). I fell timber with an old man one time that saw me dragging my file on the back-stroke and he informed me that my file would last a lot longer if I stopped...He was right! Of course the files now-a-days are not as high quality as they used to be either. I always liked the double ended oberg files, Until I bought my
Silvey Pro-Sharp, now I just use a chisel file to touch up a chain once in a while.

**Billy_Bob** · 08-17-2009, 08:11 AM

My square ground files last forever now that I grind all my chains with my Silvey square ground grinder!

I guess you can spend a fortune on files...
Or spend a fortune having someone else grind your chains...
Or spend a fortune on a grinder!

But the grinder is more of a one time expense; the grinding wheels are cheap and last a long time. So once this is paid for, it stops the money from flying out the window.

Also this is a LOT easier on my hands. My poor fingers are quite sore after hand sharpening a couple of chains for a 32 inch bar saw!

**hammerlogging** · 08-17-2009, 05:36 PM

Honestly, things I've tried and do. My luck with the wire brush, so so- yes it helps but maybe for just one more filing, or it works a hare better but I can tell the file is still wore out. I tap it out every other tooth or so too. And, I'm prone to wiping it off on my pants every so often with so so results, (as pants are atleast as dirty as the file). BUT, I admittedly backdrag, picked up this roundfiling. Argh. I can change, I'll try it. I suspected as much.

Yes, my Sat./Sun. 5 or 6 chain filing sessions are a bit arduous (105 drivers too), but am not convinced a grinder is for me..... still stuck on the idea that if I don't like 'em out of a box, why'd I like em off a grinder? Maybe its the old martyr syndrome.

But, yes, money flying out to keep going, and really just looking to spend less for the faller's needs, the little things add up.
Thanks for the good suggestions.

**380LGR** · 08-17-2009, 06:46 PM

I chuck them after 3-4 sharpenings. Not worth the trouble at a buck apice.

**ray benson** · 08-17-2009, 08:15 PM

Originally Posted by 380LGR

I chuck them after 3-4 sharpenings. Not worth the trouble at a buck apice.

The files he is using -double bevel for square ground chain is not the same as round files for chisel chain.

**tramp bushler** · 08-18-2009, 12:31 AM

The problem is ,it,s wet . Harry Hunsley , an old faller I worked around , and cut around his sons for a while was a great hand filer ...... He said if he knew it was going to start raining he would wet his chain ( sharpen ) before the rain started . that the water on the file would ruin a file ....... I,ve wore out a hundred or so chisel files and would agree with him .............. My favorite is the 3 corner chisel file ..... But it works best for me when used with a chain saw bar and half ton p/u leaf spring filing jig . You use a shortish bar so there is enough droop in the chain to put your foot in the chain to hold tension on it ..Then use 2 hands on the file ........ Of course you need to do this at night at the saw shop or home ect .. Someplace warm and dry ......

Double ended Oberg files are the best for out in the brush IMO and they last the longest .

.. But , Really , you need a good chisel bit chain grinder ..... I can promise you , If Tarzan , or I or a number of other bushlers on here ground you a chain , or just borrowed you one of ours that we would use that day , you would be very happy with how sharp they were !!!!!!!!!!..

. You have almost infinite adjustments on a chisel grinder ...... So much so it is pretty easy to REALLY SCREW UP A CHAIN .... All with a few degrees difference on a dressing block , or height difference with the stone and chain holder .... .. But as Silvy's come from the factory they will grind a very good , very sharp !! chain .. And you won,t get cramps in your hands .......!!!And in the long run it is much less expensive than files !!!!!!!.. The Swing Arm Silvey or the Razur Sharp II is a great grinder .... If you were running long bars in Big timber like Tarzan , an SDM 4 ( nmy personal favorite grinder) or the Pro Sharp are great ...............The Pro Sharp is worth the money ... But I like the SDM 4 better . and I can put up a chain just as well on my Simington 451 A as good as I can a Pro Sharp ... But it,s easier with the Pro Sharp ............ An HDG is very handy also for gullets and riders , . But a bar mounted to a bench ,and a Carlton File O Plate .with a fine rider file is great for the depth gauges .. and a 3 cornered file for the gullets is what I have mostly used ...... I recommend the soft brown stone for getting started and with experience moving up to
the Blue ceramic stone ............. Go easy when dressing the stone ,

.
Have ONLY GOOD ELECTRICITY !!!!!! And Never allow your grinder to be knocked over !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wear eye protection .. Get a Big florescent magnifing glass light ....... I,ll stop now ..

**hammerlogging** · 08-18-2009, 01:19 AM

I thought wet had a lot to do with it.

**Billy_Bob** · 08-18-2009, 05:09 AM

Below is a double bevel flat file used to sharpen square ground chains (chisel chain). Last time I bought some they were around $7 each I think?

Following from...
(How To Sharpen Square Chisel Chain With A File)
http://www.madsens1.com/bnc%20filing%20cb.htm

**tramp bushler** · 08-18-2009, 12:41 PM

Yes that is very good info ....
. One thing the article didn,t mention ,. When filing , the chain Needs to be very tight in the bar so it does'nt chatter or keep rocking backwards ......... The way to do this in the brush is with a wedge .... Pull down on the bottom of the chain and slide a falling wedge between the chain and bar ......Larry Reed from Ketchikan showed me that trick ........ It is easy to tell when your bar is wearing out, chisel filing .......
.
. The reason I prefer a 3 corner chisel file , is you can do the gullets while filing the cutters ......Just twist your hand down a little and you can take the gullet right out with the bottom of the file ....
.
. Chisel file for a little while and you will go to full skip chain , or at least semi skip

**coastalfaller** · 08-18-2009, 05:23 PM

Originally Posted by tramp bushler

The problem is ,it,s wet . Harry Hunsley , an old faller I worked around , and cut around his sons for a while was a great hand filer ...... He said if he knew it was going to start raining he would wet his chain ( sharpen ) before the rain started . that the water on the file would ruin a file ....... I,ve wore out a hundred or so chisel files and would agree with him .............. My favorite is the 3 corner chisel file ..... But it works best for me when used with a chain saw bar and half ton p/u leaf spring filing jig . You use a shortish bar so there is enough droop in the chain to put your foot in the chain to hold tension on it ..Then use 2 hands on the file ........ Of course you need to do this at night at the saw shop or home ect .. Someplace warm and dry ......

Double ended Oberg files are the best for out in the brush IMO and they last the longest .

.. But , Really , you need a good chisel bit chain grinder ..... I can promise you , If Tarzan , or I or a number of other bushlers on here ground you a chain , or just borrowed you one of ours that we would use that day , you would be very happy with how sharp they were !!!!!!!!!!..

. You have almost infinite adjustments on a chisel grinder ...... So much so it is pretty easy to REALLY SCREW UP A CHAIN .... All with a few degrees difference on a dressing block , or height difference with the stone and chain holder .... .. But as Silvy's come from the factory they will grind a very good , very sharp !! chain .. And you won,t get cramps in your hands .......!!!And in the long run it is much less expensive than files !!!!!!!.. The Swing Arm Silvey or the Razur Sharp II is a great grinder .... If you were running long bars in Big timber like Tarzan , an SDM 4 ( nmy personal favorite grinder) or the Pro Sharp are great ...............The Pro Sharp is worth the money ... But I like the SDM 4 better . and I can put up a chain just as well on my Simington 451 A as good as I can a Pro Sharp ... But it,s easier with the Pro Sharp ............ An HDG is very handy also for gullets and riders , . But a bar mounted to a bench ,and a Carlton File O Plate .with a fine rider file is great for the depth gauges .. and a 3 cornered file for the gullets is what I have mostly used ...... I recommend the soft brown stone for getting started and with experience moving up to
the Blue ceramic stone ............. Go easy when dressing the stone ,

.
Have ONLY GOOD ELECTRICITY !!!!!! And Never allow your grinder to be knocked over !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wear eye protection .. Get a Big florescent magnifing glass light ....... I,ll stop now ..

All very well said! Especially the part about the large magnifying light, makes a huge difference, and I still have good eyesight!

**bullbuck** · 08-18-2009, 07:28 PM

i assume that you guys would reccomend the silvey pro sharp?there are a couple different models in madsens

**Greystoke** · 08-18-2009, 10:16 PM

Originally Posted by bullbuck

i assume that you guys would reccomend the silvey pro sharp?there are a couple different models in madsens

I hand filed the first couple of years that I fell timber for Columbia, and finally broke down and bought a Pro Sharp...probably the single most worthy investment I ever made in my career, especially when bushelin. If you plan on being in the game for a few more years it will pay for itself in a hurry. Any model is decent, but old Sam Madsen talked me into the Pro Sharp, fine tuning...etc etc.

**John Ellison** · 08-19-2009, 03:44 AM

Where can you get a floures. magnifiing light? I wear reading glasses grinding but that would be better.

I used to keep a file in a jug of saw gas when working on the landing and it would stay good for a long time. Mark the jug well so no one uses it to fuel up.
You can clean them by soaking in vinegar. Then rinse and use something or they will rust.

Tramp bushler is right, grinding is the way to go, but for filing in the woods a double ended Oberg is the best ( are they available again?) A built in handle. You used to be able to buy tight fitting plastic slipcovers that would protect the file, one for each end.