I'm just going to throw this out there...

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TomSawyer

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2007
Messages
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Location
Benzonia MI
The Husky 394 is a bad mamma jamma. I ran ours today with a 37" Carlton bar and Oregon chain, cutting a 48" sugar maple stem. If you need more saw than that, you must be one of those dudes cutting giant redwoods.

In fact, if you need more saw than that, let us know! What are you cutting, show us some pics!
 
I've got a 395 with a 32' bar and was cutting on a 30" maple the other day. I can remember not long ago a 24" log was quite a chore to cut up. Now with the 395 I laugh at 30" like its child's play.
 
I've got a 395 with a 32' bar and was cutting on a 30" maple the other day. I can remember not long ago a 24" log was quite a chore to cut up. Now with the 395 I laugh at 30" like its child's play.

A 32" bar? Laughing at 30" wood? I laugh at 50"+ wood with my 394 and 32" bar. 30" wood is a daily thing for us... LOL.
 
I sure like my 394xp with 3/8" x .063 on a 36" GB Ti bar. I am going to try 24" this summer though. I just received my goody-box from Madsen's. I bought a 24" and 32" Cannon Superbars set up for .404 chain. I'll keep the GB bar in case I want to go back/long. I am going to do some experimenting with these, I have 7, 8, 9 and 10-tooth sprockets. I can't wait.

The 32" bar is for my 3120xp which I should be getting soon. :clap:
 
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I sure like my 394xp with 3/8" x .063 on a 36" GB Ti bar. I am going to try 24" this summer though. I just received my goody-box from Madsen's. I bought a 24" and 32" Cannon Superbars set up for .404 chain. I'll keep the GB bar in case I want to go back/long. I am going to do some experimenting with these, I have 7, 8, 9 and 10-tooth sprockets. I can't wait.
I run an 8T on mine w/24" B/C and that is a nice combo. With the 32"er I wouldn't want any bigger sproket and maybe going back to the 7T might be better.
 
Hard or soft?

That sounds like a personal question... LOL.

Seriously, my point is that the 394 doesn't mind burrying the entire bar. Most of our big wood is maple, oak or tulip poplar. With the big dawgs providing a good pivot, the 394 will roll the tip into the wood deep and fast. I will admit that with a 32" and full-comp, it slows down some in the softer woods like tulip poplar due to excessive chip buildup. It's my all time favorite saw with a 20"... It slows down for nothing!
 
beat this

84"

yeah baby

attachment.php
 
What in the world?

Never seen a saw to bar to saw before.
Is that a rigged 2 man saw where one runs and one doesn't?
Splain to me loosy!
:dizzy:
-br
 
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Never seen a saw to bar to saw before.
Is that a rigged 2 man saw where one runs and one doesn't?
Splain to me loosy!
:dizzy:
-br

See how the chain is only on one side of the bar? Each operator blips his throttle and the chain goes back & forth. Kinda like a powered crosscut saw.

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Here's how they really work,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUzAy5XLbFU


Ed
 
I bought a 15" bar for my Husky 51 because the 18" bar seemed useless since I have a 20" bar for my 394xp. Also have a 32" bar for the bigger stuff. Nothing like having it buried ALL the way in oak with full comp and it just chewing right through.
 
Never seen a saw to bar to saw before.
Is that a rigged 2 man saw where one runs and one doesn't?
Splain to me loosy!
:dizzy:
-br

lol


where one runs and one doesnt? now thats funny!

the only thing wrong with using that sort of setup, is trying to find a sucker to operate the end that has the power head mounted upside down. If the chain breaks theres 16' of chain coming towards him at 24m/s, gunna make him all pretty like.

Ive used it to fell a couple of big trees before (just because I can), but 99% of the time its milling.
 
395xp

395's and 394's are just plain monsters...that's all there is to it.....an 066 will be close, but no cigar in the bigger wood...:greenchainsaw: :cheers:
 
Ok now I do the splainin'

lol
where one runs and one doesnt? now thats funny!

I asked because I didn't think the motors could "synch" torque wise.
IOW- one will do the pulling, including pulling the slower saws sprocket.
How do you overcome that?

You had me going at first with the "blip" thing though.:)

Is this setup really worth the trouble?
-br
 
I bought a 15" bar for my Husky 51 because the 18" bar seemed useless since I have a 20" bar for my 394xp. Also have a 32" bar for the bigger stuff. Nothing like having it buried ALL the way in oak with full comp and it just chewing right through.

I'm not trying to be a smart allek, but why would you want to run a 20" bar on a 394 when a smaller, lighter saw would pull a 20" just fine. I know a 20 will cut like mad in a 30" log, but you have to cut twice. Why not use a 32" bar and cut once?

Andy
 
I'm not trying to be a smart allek, but why would you want to run a 20" bar on a 394 when a smaller, lighter saw would pull a 20" just fine. I know a 20 will cut like mad in a 30" log, but you have to cut twice. Why not use a 32" bar and cut once?

Andy

Because I don't have a smaller, lighter saw that will pull a 20" bar as I spent all my money on the 394xp.

The big bar is usually only needed at the site to cut the big stuff up into rounds. Then when I'm at home processing the wood, I put the 20" bar on the 394 and then also have the 51 for the really small stuff.

I don't do a bunch of cutting anyway. I'm just a stump grinder that gets some wood to sell as firewood a little here and there.
 

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