Stihl Rollomatic ES Wide Vs Narrow tip and Weight

[HolmenTree]

Dear Mr. Windthrown,

Yeah you sound like a confused monkey. Rambling on about 460, 361s, Olympics. You heard Racerboy was thinking of putting a 20"/13 Tooth tipped bar on his 660. Along with removing limit caps and possibily other mods to increase hp and now overtaxing a chain brake in addition to adding the big tip. How do I know if he doesn't file his depth gauges down to 40- 50 thous? I spoke up in concern of his safety, any thing that can help him be a little safer I am in favor of . And you my friend are still a dumb azz because you have proven you don't give a rat's azz about anyone. Not professional in my books.

 

[Racerboy832]

I put on the regular nose 20" ES bar with replaceable tip, removed the limiter caps cause while I had it apart I made sure the carb was clean, I used nice snug fuel line around the screws to prevent them from ever moving, Fixed the Chain oiler worm gear (Tip was broke), New rsc chain. The most important part is I painted the clutch and pull start cover. Now that I started some fights and my saw seems ready to go, I'll go back to hiding.

 

[skid row]

I guess I will keep the bar. I figured if the other "green" bar was alot lighter then I would swap them.

Kinda of a shame to put a laminated "green" bar and reduced kickback chain on a ms660. Especially if you are so concerned about shedding some weight.

Something just dont make alot of sense here.

Did ya ever consider purchasing a poulan wild thing? Right out of the box they have a lightweight green bar, and are a heck of alot cheaper than a 660 pro saw.

IMO any type of sawchain dull or sharp on any chainsaw will cut flesh with ease. Chainsaw safety should be learned first, BEFORE the operator uses the saw.

 

[Racerboy832]

I put the regular Yellow ES bar on it opposed to the Wide nose yellow bar.

 

[windthrown]

Yeah you sound like a confused monkey. Rambling on about 460, 361s, Olympics. You heard Racerboy was thinking of putting a 20"/13 Tooth tipped bar on his 660. Along with removing limit caps and possibily other mods to increase hp and now overtaxing a chain brake in addition to adding the big tip. How do I know if he doesn't file his depth gauges down to 40- 50 thous? I spoke up in concern of his safety, any thing that can help him be a little safer I am in favor of . And you my friend are still a dumb azz because you have proven you don't give a rat's azz about anyone. Not professional in my books.

Blah blah blah... dumb azz.. blah blah blah. That's all that you can say? dumb azz?

Math and actually thinking are just way beyond your brain capacity it would seem.

 

[HolmenTree]

I want to apologize to ALL members here for the name calling I did yesterday. No one should have to read this. But at the same time I don't want to read about some member on this fine site to have seriously cut himself from a kickback. You have to see the potential here, with every one wanting to mod their saws to increase hp and at the same time over taxing their chainbrakes.

Just a word of advice if your saw has no chain brake run a Windsor mini pro bar or a Oregon bar with a double guard tip on it, I think Stihl USA may offer a small nose similar in size [9T-3/8",10T-.325] on their ES bars. Run these bars even if you have a chain brake, good sound safety sense. Keep your chain to factory specs. I have no problem plunge cutting with a safety nose,may be a little slower but very smooth.
Willard.

 

[056kid]

slower is not a production word. if you can run the saw, run it.


if you cant dont. they are all the same tool, they can alll #### you up.


Narrow tips imo plunge better but suffer in the life department. big tips last longer. they cut in a straight line just like the other, they just require some basic skill...

 

[385XP]

You guys are making me think too much. Should I keep the yellow bar or swap it for the green one. I'm not a pro at cutting but pretty good at common sense. If I cut with this bar 20" into a 30" log (rare but a few) will it want to spit the bar back more often. My biggest saw I have used is a MS290 with no problems. This is a MS660

JUST MAKE SURE YOU ALWAYS KEEP A GOOD GRIP ON YOUR SAW. And pay atention to what your doing at all times.

 

[Tzed250]

Just a word of advice if your saw has no chain brake run a Windsor mini pro bar or a Oregon bar with a double guard tip on it, I think Stihl USA may offer a small nose similar in size [9T-3/8",10T-.325] on their ES bars.

Smallest Stihl 3003 ES nose is 10T, on the bar I mentioned above.

 

[HolmenTree]

slower is not a production word. if you can run the saw, run it.


if you cant dont. they are all the same tool, they can alll #### you up.


Narrow tips imo plunge better but suffer in the life department. big tips last longer. they cut in a straight line just like the other, they just require some basic skill...

When I fell piecework production I almost never had to plunge cut ,maybe the odd double stemmed tree.It was just our forestry company policy then which was "narrow[small] tips only" and it worked with the hundreds of loggers we had kickback injuries hardly ever showed up.We felled, limbed and topped. Narrow tips don't plunge as effiently as larger tips,because of the tail of the cutters messing up the cutting action but their almost impossible to get a kickback with starting the plunge.
But now doing arborist urban tree work, cutting is different and your wear your self out from climbing and grunt work and you really have to be careful with the saw even if your a little fatiqued.

 

[056kid]

When I fell piecework production I almost never had to plunge cut ,maybe the odd double stemmed tree.It was just our forestry company policy then which was "narrow[small] tips only" and it worked with the hundreds of loggers we had kickback injuries hardly ever showed up.We felled, limbed and topped. Narrow tips don't plunge as effiently as larger tips,because of the tail of the cutters messing up the cutting action but their almost impossible to get a kickback with starting the plunge.
But now doing arborist urban tree work, cutting is different and your wear your self out from climbing and grunt work and you really have to be careful with the saw even if your a little fatiqued.

I know that the narrow tip is smoother in the cut and faster when gutting out a face of a hickory OR a walnut...

 

[whitedogone]

how would this one be Holmen? opcorn:

 

[spankrz]

I know that. But... if you are not going to do bore cutting, then you are not apt to have any problems from kickback from having a wide nose bar. Its kind of a Catch-22. And typical in these days of OSHA controlled technology. The guy has a wide nose bar, may as well keep it, as it will last longer.

you usually don't have problems with kickback when bore cutting, you are being careful. you have problems with kickback when you are cutting in a log but the tip hits in another log behind that one.

 

[spankrz]

how would this one be Holmen? opcorn:

got one of them on my 250

 

[HolmenTree]

how would this one be Holmen? opcorn:

You see that hole drilled near the nose, I bolt a handle in that hole on my 12" dime tip bar on my MS200 for doing finishing detail on my carvings. Best accuracy when carving with a top handle saw.

 

[HolmenTree]

I know that the narrow tip is smoother in the cut and faster when gutting out a face of a hickory OR a walnut...

What chain are you running?

 

[HolmenTree]

Smallest Stihl 3003 ES nose is 10T, on the bar I mentioned above.

Good info TZ, should be a good setup for safety conscious people who want a high quality kickback reduced bar.

 

[056kid]

What chain are you running?

skip tooth and full comp both. An 11 t tip is what ya want.


And either new chain does not plunge for spit!! you gotta shave thoes high drags.

New chain also feels like as$ when it s buried.


too slow for mee mann.

 

[HolmenTree]

A trick to make your chain plunge[bore] cut better is file or grind the edge of the cutters top/side plate tail off at a 45 degree angle behind the witness mark. This mod allows more clearance in that area as the cutter goes around the radius of the bar tip buried in the cut. The smaller the tip radius the more important this becomes. Your 11 T 3/8 tip is standard large in my books, I run 9s. Like earlier said on this thread Stihl makes a 13. Stihl's smallest 3003 ES tip is a 10T as TZed250 said earlier.

 

[SawTroll]

.... Your 11 T 3/8 tip is standard large in my books, I run 9s. .....

:jawdrop: 11s and 10s here - can't imagine using the 9s - they just look like a joke (sorry).....