Help with building a 2100cd race saw.

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Banshee

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Apr 10, 2008
Messages
1,584
Reaction score
148
Location
Indiana
Okay, race might be too strong a word for what I want.
I want the fastest cutting saw I can get without having a pure race saw.
On the other hand it's not going to see any work, run all day, ran on a mill, etc, etc.
I just basically want a fast play toy to cut cookies with.
I looks to already have a muffler mod and it maybe cylinder ported. I only ran it for a few cuts and it's a very strong runner as is.
I've even thought maybe just going with a cylinder port and race chain on a 20 inch bar, but I like to have a little more ump than that.
So if anyone has suggestions, I'm all ears. Or if there are any builders out there that would like to do this build for me, pm me.
 
There is either a race saw or a work saw, there is no in-between. If you are looking to have fun, get a good chain made and get good with the saw. I would say that less than 1% of the people on this site have seen a real racing saw in person. In that group there are very few of us that own one (I own eight). I am not bragging, or putting any one down. You are going to get a lot of opinions from people who have no idea what they are talking about. Learn how to run your saw correctly, get a good chain and have fun. If you really want to race, go to a race and talk to the winners, ask who built their saws.
 
There is either a race saw or a work saw, there is no in-between. If you are looking to have fun, get a good chain made and get good with the saw. I would say that less than 1% of the people on this site have seen a real racing saw in person. In that group there are very few of us that own one (I own eight). I am not bragging, or putting any one down. You are going to get a lot of opinions from people who have no idea what they are talking about. Learn how to run your saw correctly, get a good chain and have fun. If you really want to race, go to a race and talk to the winners, ask who built their saws.

Very true. I build work saws and they won't touch a race saw. That's a whole new ballgame with a whole new set of rules.
 
Banshee,

A bit off topic but I see you run 100ll gas, does it make a difference? Reason I ask is because the airport is only a mile away from me, and the gas station with 93 octane Ultimate is 5.5 miles away.

Maybe I should get the avgas instead?
 
I just talked to the guy I got it from and he said it was stock.

He also didn't recommend running it over 12,000 rpm. He said the way the crank is design it has trouble getting oil to all the bearings at anything over 12,000. Is this true?

With just a woods port and muffler mod, does anyone know if it will pull a 9 or even 10 pin spocket with an 18 inch bar?
 
Banshee,

A bit off topic but I see you run 100ll gas, does it make a difference? Reason I ask is because the airport is only a mile away from me, and the gas station with 93 octane Ultimate is 5.5 miles away.

Maybe I should get the avgas instead?

I doesn't make a differance in power. If anything it loses a little, but not enough to really tell.
I run it because of shelf life. It's one less thing to worry about. When you get a few saws it's hard to make sure that they all don't sit for months without being used.
 
Banshee,

A bit off topic but I see you run 100ll gas, does it make a difference? Reason I ask is because the airport is only a mile away from me, and the gas station with 93 octane Ultimate is 5.5 miles away.

Maybe I should get the avgas instead?

You will not see a performance gain just from switching fuels in a saw unless the compression dictates it. We tested several different fuels at a recent GTG.

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/OhMzZ17oPvA&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/OhMzZ17oPvA&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
 
I should post the pictures of a 2100 cylinder that was a race saw, it is ported like crazy, and has been moddified to run an 084 carb. It looks like someone went nuts with a dremel. Dave.

Pictures would be awesome. Do you have pictures of how the carb intake was moddified?
 
I doesn't make a differance in power. If anything it loses a little, but not enough to really tell.
I run it because of shelf life. It's one less thing to worry about. When you get a few saws it's hard to make sure that they all don't sit for months without being used.

You will not see a performance gain just from switching fuels in a saw unless the compression dictates it. We tested several different fuels at a recent GTG.

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/OhMzZ17oPvA&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/OhMzZ17oPvA&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>


:cheers:
 
My 2100CD, not a racesaw by any means but fun to fool around with.

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/GTjZMQmHwnU&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/GTjZMQmHwnU&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
 
There is a governor built into the Tilly carb. It looks like a brass set screw located right next to the choke linkage.

"Speed governor
The purpose of the governor is to limit the engine
speed in order to protect vital parts like the crankshaft
and ignition system from excessive stresses.
We therefore advise most strongly against any interference
designed to render it inoperative. When the
saw IS run under no-load conditions, the engine
speed IS limited to 10,500 r/min as the governor
comes into operation.


The steel ball and spring in the governor are so devised
that vibrations in the carburettor at a certain
engine speed cause the steel ball to open the fuel
outlet. An excessively rich mixture IS then obtained
and the engine begins to four-stroke, the speed
drops and the vibrations decrease. The steel ball
then closes the outlet, the engine speed increase
and the process IS repeated.


Removal of speed governor
Remove the screw for the choke flap. Pull out the
flap approx. 7 mm and push out the choke shaft
approx 5 mm. Remove the speed governor with a
suitable screw driver."

:chainsaw:
 
Okay, race might be too strong a word for what I want.
I want the fastest cutting saw I can get without having a pure race saw.
On the other hand it's not going to see any work, run all day, ran on a mill, etc, etc.
I just basically want a fast play toy to cut cookies with.
I looks to already have a muffler mod and it maybe cylinder ported. I only ran it for a few cuts and it's a very strong runner as is.
I've even thought maybe just going with a cylinder port and race chain on a 20 inch bar, but I like to have a little more ump than that.
So if anyone has suggestions, I'm all ears. Or if there are any builders out there that would like to do this build for me, pm me.



Why not leave your saw stock and put a piped muffler on it.
 
You will not see a performance gain just from switching fuels in a saw unless the compression dictates it. We tested several different fuels at a recent GTG.

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/OhMzZ17oPvA&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/OhMzZ17oPvA&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
Brad, what was the compression of that saw?. My one ported MS460 cylinder is at 205 psi, I always use 100 octane unleaded just to be safe. Many say 190 psi is the "safe" limit for premium pump gas.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top