VP Fuels in Chainsaws

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C10 looks like a great high performance fuel for long term storage. Motorsport 101 looks like a great fuel for making the most power. I wish this stuff was easier to acquire and try out.

There is a guy just down the road from you that sells VP fuels. Check out Total Performance in Fairfield.
 
Do not know where you are located or why you have 40 saws to run fuel through but more than doubling the cost of fuel sounds like a tough way to narrow down costs.

If you have the receipts to count up fuel costs then you would know.

At $8.00 a gallon I would be spending an additional $25.00+ any given month so it would not work out for me.

Why so many saws sitting idle so long? How long do you normally have to keep the gas?

Saws are in Maine and PA, why do I have 40 saws? Well, because I want them. :)

The cost isn't strictly from fuel, the associated maintenance and fuel related problems is where the money goes. I don't have time to run the 40 saws on a regular basis, but they are all stored dry but the ETOH damage lingers after the fuel is dumped out. Fuels lines and diaphragms become dehydrated very quickly.

Because I work on saws more than I run them, fuel will usually be around for months before i get to the bottom of the can. Even 1 gallon can take 2 or 3 months to use up. I know it isn't practical for cordwood usage but for what I do it seems to make more sense.
 
Hmmm. That's good to know. Anyone ever tested oxygenated race fuels in a ported worksaw? If so, it would be good for running at GTG. The C10 would be good for the oldies that see very little run time.

I know a lot of the pulling teams that have tried VP Q16 (heavily oxygenated) had a ton of work to do to tune for it. They richened things up considerably to run it and found a lot of horsepower. Absolutely NO mistaking who has it in the cell, though. It smells like no other.
 
Hmmm. That's good to know. Anyone ever tested oxygenated race fuels in a ported worksaw? If so, it would be good for running at GTG. The C10 would be good for the oldies that see very little run time.

I tried to call him over the holiday but didn't get any answer, might be a really small shop or something. Could have been closed for an extended vacation too.
 
Looks like they're not open on Saturdays either.

If you Cinci boys get a barrel, I would be willing to get 5 gallons of the SEF94 when I get down that way. I didn't ask what a barrel would have cost when I talked to the guy up here, have no need for that much.
 
Saws are in Maine and PA, why do I have 40 saws? Well, because I want them. :)

Do not have any idea about fuel quality there. My family in Maine has not experienced any issues so far with regular fuel.

The cost isn't strictly from fuel, the associated maintenance and fuel related problems is where the money goes. I don't have time to run the 40 saws on a regular basis, but they are all stored dry but the ETOH damage lingers after the fuel is dumped out. Fuels lines and diaphragms become dehydrated very quickly.

Are you trying to run your entire collection? That is where the expense comes in. I have hundreds of saws and use what I like best regularly. The rest are stored with 32:1 with extra stabilizer mix in the carb. for years sometimes before they are restarted. I do not seem to have the issues you speak of. I would suggest that you stop running the carbs dry as air is the enemy.

Because I work on saws more than I run them, fuel will usually be around for months before i get to the bottom of the can. Even 1 gallon can take 2 or 3 months to use up. I know it isn't practical for cordwood usage but for what I do it seems to make more sense.

Have you looked at the last bit of fuel from the can in a glass container. You should if you are experiencing that many issues. I will typically dump the last bit from the five gallon jug and leave it sit over night up side down in a glass container to make sure that I am not collecting any water. I have never found any. However, at least half the saws that I purchase have water in the gas tank.

For the amount of fuel that you are consuming expensive fuel may not be an issue, it would be for me. I would use up $200.00 parts budget in less than 4 months worth of increased expense fuel purchases.
 
Back in PA the pumps around my house say may contain 10% ETOH, but have found anywhere between 3 and 7% with premium fuels. So far everything I have bought in ME has been 8-10%, so I think the fuel in Maine is more uniform. Not many fuel companies to choose from where I am at, either Irving or Mobil with a couple other places that aren't too close. Fuel mileage in my truck has dropped 15-18% since the switch to E10 in ME too.

I try to run each saw at least once a year and make several cuts with it, just for fun and to make sure things are good. I only use 5 or 6 saws for the real wood cutting and have no plans to run them strictly on expensive fuel. Pump gas is fine if I run through it all within a month, but the collection gets a bit hairy. Since most of my saws are back in PA and could be used by my dad (not as particular about saws as me) it is hard for me to keep track of how old the fuel is in each saw.

I test fuel regularly because I have access to all that stuff, and it is something to do when I am killing time in the garage drinking beer.
 
streetblaze 100

Color: Orange
oxygenated
96 motor octane
R+M/2 100
specific gravity .746 at 60f

That looks to be a good fuel. How much does it run? The only one that I though looked better was the Motorsport 101. Here's a nice PDF comparing the two. LINK

"This 101 octane (R+M/2) fuel makes more power than StreetBlaze 100, along with better throttle response and better detonation protection. It contains no metal compounds and won't harm catalytic converters or oxygen sensors."
 
PB, its sounds as though your fuel is similar to what I get around here in terms of the E.

The only obvious differences that I see between are situations might be-

1. Quality of fuel. How long has it been in the storage tank at the station?
How old is the station? Etc. I purchase fuel from a station that fills the premium tank regularly as it is next to a major highway. Ask around and see what the schedules are like you might be better off not to purchase premium if it is ancient fuel sitting in an antique tank.

2. As I mentioned before I no longer run my carbs dry as I have less issues keeping fuel in them than dry. Having said that, I also am an advocate of storing saws with a minimum of 32:1 mix in the carb if not richer. I will also add Stabil to the gas in the 5 gal jug and only fill up the 1 gallon mix containers from the 5 gallon containers when they are empty.

3. It is common for me to use 5 gallons of mix up in a month so I am not storing the mix for very long. The only place that it sits is in the carbs and so far that has not been as issue for over a year in some saws.

When you are replacing fuel parts is the damage from water? What is the damage? Swelling, gum, brittleness?
 
When you are replacing fuel parts is the damage from water? What is the damage? Swelling, gum, brittleness?

I am sure there isn't a high demand for premium fuel where I am at and could sit there for quite a while. The stations are fairly new, or look it but who knows about the tanks.

Damage is brittleness, and some gumming. I don't know what it is about the ETOH but the gumming seems to be worse. Maybe once it separates it is more concentrated or something. I am not too concerned in the newer saws, but older saws that haven't been built with ETOH in mind are the ones that I find myself repairing more. The fuel lines that came with the saws were fine when I got them, but after a year they are all cracked. I know they are old lines, but were fine before.
 
Just a comment on fuels. Higher octane than what the engine needs to avoid detonation will result in less power and unburnt fuel going out the exhaust. Higher octane fuels burn slower than lower octane, so if the compression ratio of the engine doesn't require 112, running 112 will only cost money and make less power than running 100 or 93. IMHO, the best fuel would be the lowest octane that keeps pinging away. Alcohol (Ethanol or Methanol) aren't all bad and if tuned properly will make more power than straight gasoline. But do require richer mixtures.

Why not mix in some fuel stabilizer with every can of mix? I add a couple ounces to my premix that's going to sit for awhile. I've had a gallon in a closed container with stabilizer for 6-9 months here in western PA without a problem. The saws & trimmers don't seem to have any issues if fuel is left in the tank either. I do seem to have better luck with Valero, Gulf or Kwik Fill. The only water problem I've ever had was from Exxon.
 

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