opcorn:opcorn:
Pioneerguy600
Pioneerguy600
I have a small hole punch set like the smaller Boehm set but I prefer to use forstner wood working bits to make gaskets. To stop the forstner bits tearing the gasket material I sandwich the gasket material between two pieces of MDF. I use them on a drill press at quite slow speeds ~200 RPM. I have a set of 16 bits ranging from 1/4" to 2" and they only cost about US$40
Forstner bits will drill holes in rubber (sandwiched between wood), cork, plastic and even ally if plenty of lube is used. I do use the punches for making washers from leather/plastic/rubber etc
Brmorgan
start soaking the taps and dies in ATF or whatever
some nice planes there
Molasses and water is a good one.
ATF cut with mineral spirits or Varsol etc. works really well as a general penetrating oil and solvent on rusty parts. I'm not sure how well it would dissolve and remove all the rust. It takes quite a while with the molasses though, probably a week or more to really get it good from what I've read. I was also considering electrolysis but that might be a bit harder to rig up properly with a bunch of small parts like this, unless I do just one or two at a time. Faster, though.Great idea with posting Titles with your posts.That doesn't sound right but you guy's know what I mean.I will have to look back and see who suggested that again!It will make for some great searching when trying to find things.
The suggestions for rust removal from Brad's tools,do those really work.?
I mean when you pick them out of the stuff, is the surface rust completely gone?
Thanks
Lawrence
So a couple years ago I paid an old-timer $20 at a yard sale for a minor upgrade to my tap & die tooling:
I'd definitely call that a score.
As for driving those big taps, do you see the home made looking little tap holder on the right hand side. These are relatively easy to make so when the time comes this design (just larger) is one way to go.
I have one of those square die pipe threaders. It comes from FIL's tool kit and I believe he got it from his father so it is likely to be about 100 years old.
Originally Posted by stinkbait You should do a search on electrolysis.
I have been doing this quite a bit lately with a used battery charger from a garage sale. Lots of info and detail available on the Internet ('Electrolytic Rust Removal').
A few key points:
The black/negative, ‘cathode’ clamp goes on the part where you want to ‘lose' rust (-)
The red/positive, ‘anode’ goes on the sacrificial part that you want to draw/'add' the rust to (+)
I use an additional, ‘sacrificial clamp’ (spring clamp on a short piece of wire) on the anode side to keep my good, battery charger clamp out of the solution, or it WILL also get destroyed.
THIS USES LIVE ELECTRICAL CURRENT IN AN OPEN WATER BATH!!!! Hook everything up BEFORE you plug things in, and resist all temptation to move or adjust the parts until you UNPLUG FIRST. Keep kids, spouses, dogs, etc. away from this while it is running.
Philbert
Here's a shot of my handplane collection so far:
Right to Left: Stanley no. 80 Scraper, two no. 9-1/2 block planes, and then nos. 3, 4-1/2, 5, and finally the big no. 6 at the end with a spare iron in my honing jig in front. The 5 is a knockoff, not a true Stanley, but is usable enough. I got the no. 80 scraper paintless from an antique shop for $10 and repainted it with low-gloss Black enamel paint, and it's holding up well enough. It's not as good as the original Japanning finish, but it looks fine to me. I got the first 9-1/2 from an antique shop in pretty rough shape for $10. I turned a new brass adjusting knob on a mandrel on the wood lathe, which went pretty well actually. Not having a left-hand-thread tap for it though, I had to make a new threaded post from a 5/16" bolt for it to travel on, so the adjustment direction is now reversed. I can live with it though. It's also missing the quick-release lever on the cap; it's still usable without it, but the blade (which I can't find ATM) has to be set tight with the main screw instead. The other 9-1/2 was a gift and is complete and works really well. I got the no. 3 off eBay for something like $12 because the blade was badly damaged and the obvious lack of paint (which I plan on fixing). The no. 4-1/2 came from an antique shop, with a fair bit of surface rust but otherwise in good condition; the finish is still really good on the handles. The no. 5 was a freebie from a friend who was going to throw it out, and the no. 6 was only something like $60 used at a big tool store, though it's in immaculate shape.
A shot of the 4-1/2 in use in the field a couple years ago:
That table is actually the first thing I really built out of lumber I milled with the Alaskan. Took me quite a while to get the top and seats planed down smooth with that 4-1/2! The no. 6 would've been handy but I didn't have it back then. The table is on a point out on Quesnel Lake where we go camping and fishing a fair amount. Still hasn't floated away or been burned by idiot partiers yet, three summers later. I'm not worried about anyone picking it up and taking it though! It's pretty heavy at nearly 8' long. The boards are milled from a big Douglas Fir log that was down on the beach nearby, and the base logs are from a couple smaller Cedars which were drilled and doweled together along with the cross-bracing in the middle. Boy did I get a lot of attention from people passing by in boats that afternoon! Sound carries over water fairly well and my 395 isn't exactly quiet, and it's a BIG, busy lake.
Enter your email address to join: