What's going on when a maul "bounces" ?

[trailmaker]

Sometimes the maul/axe just bounces up leaving a dent. Sometimes the wood underneath the dent is splitting normally but the maul just doesn't break through the surface layer. The only thing I can think of is that the wood fibers right at the surface are folding over at impact so the axe edge is perpendicular to them. Any thoughts wood men?

 

[bassflyrodder]

It just the wood's way of giving you the finger. Take it personal and swing harder.

 

[flushcut]

It just the wood's way of giving you the finger. Take it personal and swing harder.

Yep what they said.

 

[Guido Salvage]

You did not specify what type of maul you are using and what type of wood you are striking. Personally, I use a Sotz Monster Maul and very little stops it.

With the triangular head you do not get deflection (or "bounce" as you term it) nor will it get stuck as do wedges or mauls like this.

The only time that I tend to have problems is when I have cut through a large knot or a crotch in the tree. In that case, I just flip it over and work on the other end.

The bounce is caused by not having enough energy to overcome the bonds of the wood fibers. Either go with a bigger (or better designed) maul or swing harder.

 

[Circle B MN]

Personally, I use a Sotz Monster Maul and very little stops it.

 

[wackydeejay]

Simply put, a maul bounces off a log when it's not hit with enough force to split the fibers of the wood. When a log splits, the energy is imparted into the log by the maul. When a log fails to split after a hit, the maul bounces because it takes a greater percentage of the recoiled energy that wasn't absorbed by what should have been a split. So, yeah the log is giving you the finger...and taunting you to hit it harder! LOL

 

[Gypo Logger]

Being a good aim and reading the wood helps. Some mauls, like those made in China have too blunt of an edge. American and Canadian made mauls are the best. Also, swing so that the leading front edge of the head enters first when you swing.
John

 

[wackydeejay]

Being a good aim and reading the wood helps...

Good post, John. Many people strike a log with no plan. If there's a small knot toward the end of a log, it's best to strike it on the other end first, in my opinion. I usually also try not to hit dead center either. It's easier to get a break toward the outside a bit.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Good post, John. Many people strike a log with no plan. If there's a small knot toward the end of a log, it's best to strike it on the other end first, in my opinion. I usually also try not to hit dead center either. It's easier to get a break toward the outside a bit.

Good point there. I also find it helps to slide forehand towards rearhand at the precise monent that the head is between 2 or 3 oclock, much like whipping a towel.
Best production can be obtained when all blocks are stood on end then bust them up. If one wont go, I just go on to the next one.
Real gooney, twisted, fibrous, knotty stuff is best smartened up with a chainsaw. It's alot faster and much less tiring.
I rarely if ever use a chopping block.
John

 

[wackydeejay]

Good point there. I also find it helps to slide forehand towards rearhand at the precise monent that the head is between 2 or 3 oclock, much like whipping a towel.
Best production can be obtained when all blocks are stood on end then bust them up. If one wont go, I just go on to the next one.
Real gooney, twisted, fibrous, knotty stuff is best smartened up with a chainsaw. It's alot faster and much less tiring.
I rarely if ever use a chopping block.
John

I liken it to hitting a baseball or softball. Good swing mechanics give the best results! But, yeah I think your towel whip imagery is right on!

 

[fatjoe]

I can honestly say it`s been years since I`ve had a maul bounce off the wood.Splitting wood is an art that takes time to develop.Most rounds will have a crack that you need to follow.Even green rounds will have a little starter crack to follow.A sharp maul DOES help too.Hitting it hard doesn`t hurt either.:msp_rolleyes:

 

[Gologit]

If the round is really knotted up try using splitting wedges. Saw a kerf in the top of the round deep enough to set the wedge. Two good splitting wedges will take care of just about anything.

Me, I bought a splitter.

 

[Dale]

It means etither you're too weak, or the wood is too strong there fella. :msp_biggrin:

Times 2 on the splitter. Have done plenty of "maul work" over the years and don't miss it a bit. However, even splitters have drawbacks, as sometimes I kick my Beer over when sitting on a stool and vertical splitting. :msp_scared:

 

[wackydeejay]

it means etither you're too weak, or the wood is too strong there fella. :msp_biggrin:

Times 2 on the splitter. Have done plenty of "maul work" over the years and don't miss it a bit. However, even splitters have drawbacks, as sometimes i kick my beer over when sitting on a stool and vertical splitting. :msp_scared:

haha!

 

[Gologit]

... even splitters have drawbacks, as sometimes I kick my Beer over when sitting on a stool and vertical splitting. :msp_scared:

Get the cup holder option...problem solved.

You're right about the splitter, though. My splitting maul is lost somewhere in the shop and my splitting wedges are rusty. And that's a good thing.

 

[Dalmatian90]

Is the energy being stored-and-released being stored in the log...or the handle?

 

[beerman6]

yes.

 

[trailmaker]

It just the wood's way of giving you the finger. Take it personal and swing harder.

LOL that works somtimes but I've had better luck changing the angle of entry or changing the impact point. I like a brute force pissing match with the wood occasionally but It will tire you out quickly.

 

[trailmaker]

You did not specify what type of maul you are using and what type of wood you are striking. Personally, I use a Sotz Monster Maul and very little stops it.

With the triangular head you do not get deflection (or "bounce" as you term it) nor will it get stuck as do wedges or mauls like this.

The only time that I tend to have problems is when I have cut through a large knot or a crotch in the tree. In that case, I just flip it over and work on the other end.

The bounce is caused by not having enough energy to overcome the bonds of the wood fibers. Either go with a bigger (or better designed) maul or swing harder.

I usually use a Fiskars SSA or a Gransfors heavy splitting axe. I'm mainly splitting Coast Live Oak and Shreve Oak (another type of live oak).

I have a 12lb all steel maul very similar to the one in your picture but I find bounces more than my other splitters. I think this might be because the Live Oaks in this area don't have much if any straight sections therefore the the fibers of any given round almost never go straight up and down. Thats why I really like the short, light Fiskars because I can swing it so that it enters the round not just straight up and down but at a 5 or 10 degree angle parallel to the wood fibers. The 12 pounder can only be dropped straight down which may not be parallel to the grain.

 

[NH Hunter]

I find that if I'm splitting oak by hand and it is extremely wet, i.e. recent rain is when I get the bounce. Just my experience.