Trailer break problem. I need help, I;='m Stumped

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There is a lot of talk about how unreliable a crimp on connectors are and how there subject to corrosion. If that were true then why does every motorcycle, car, truck boat manufactures use crimp on connectors on all there wiring?
There crimped on and no type of corrosion material is used. So why do so many say there unreliable?

If left untapped or heat shrink material is used to keep out moisture was used then what moisture does get in, it's trapped and cant get out and dry properly.

You can paint a board on the top side and leave the rest of the board unpainted, and it will last longer then if you painted the whole board 100% on all sides.
the reason is moisture will find its way in and if the paint keeps it trapped in the wood it will rot 10 times faster.

I would think electrical connections would do the same thing.
 
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There is a lot of talk about how unreliable a crimp on connectors are and how there subject to corrosion. If that were true then why every motorcycle, car, truck boat manufactures use crimp on connectors on all there wiring?
There crimped on and no type of corrosion material is used. So why do so many say there unreliable?

The connections in a car are sealed to prevent corrosion. Older vehicles before they switched were subject to corrosion induced electrical issues.

Scotch-loc connectors have NO seal and pierce the wire insulation which causes the wire to corrode.
 
The connections in a car are sealed to prevent corrosion. Older vehicles before they switched were subject to corrosion induced electrical issues.

Scotch-loc connectors have NO seal and pierce the wire insulation which causes the wire to corrode.

those scotch loc connectors are the biggest POS

now its true that the connectors used for cars, trucks bikes, etc are sealed, but its only sealed where the "pin and sleeve" are(where the two ends connect)
but where the connector is actually crimped to the wire, i have yet to see one that has been sealed with more than just tape or heat shrink...
 
those scotch loc connectors are the biggest POS

now its true that the connectors used for cars, trucks bikes, etc are sealed, but its only sealed where the "pin and sleeve" are(where the two ends connect)
but where the connector is actually crimped to the wire, i have yet to see one that has been sealed with more than just tape or heat shrink...


I've been all over this 2012 Silverado and the previous 2004.5 Dodge, and I never found a single place where the connection wasn't weather proof. Same with my previous 99 Dodge. The Dodges had almost 500k between the two of them, and that's in the rust zone of PA (as well as every other state as I used those trucks for work). I never had a single wiring issue on them...now my 74 Power Wagon, that's was a different story; all of the connections were simple crimps and all of them were corroded...even the fuse holder that was in the cab caused headaches because of corrosion on the contacts.

The only method I use for my wiring is soldering and adhesive-lined heat shrink...if I put a connector on, its soldered to the wire and heat shrink is used to seal it.
 
There is a lot of talk about how unreliable a crimp on connectors are and how there subject to corrosion. If that were true then why does every motorcycle, car, truck boat manufactures use crimp on connectors on all there wiring?
There crimped on and no type of corrosion material is used. So why do so many say there unreliable?

If left untapped or heat shrink material is used to keep out moisture was used then what moisture does get in, it's trapped and cant get out and dry properly.

You can paint a board on the top side and leave the rest of the board unpainted, and it will last longer then if you painted the whole board 100% on all sides.
the reason is moisture will find its way in and if the paint keeps it trapped in the wood it will rot 10 times faster.

I would think electrical connections would do the same thing.

if that were true, (which its not)
then how whould you explain a bettery terminal corroding? is not sealed/covered, its able to dry out, and usually corrodes more than anything...

the best thing to seal a termination is dielectric grease,
if you want the best then crimp your connector on then pack it with dielectric grease then put heat shrink around it, heat shrink keeps the grease in , and the grease keeps the moisture out.
or soldier the connection apply grease, and heat shrink.
 
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I've been all over this 2012 Silverado and the previous 2004.5 Dodge, and I never found a single place where the connection wasn't weather proof. Same with my previous 99 Dodge. The Dodges had almost 500k between the two of them, and that's in the rust zone of PA (as well as every other state as I used those trucks for work). I never had a single wiring issue on them...now my 74 Power Wagon, that's was a different story; all of the connections were simple crimps and all of them were corroded...even the fuse holder that was in the cab caused headaches because of corrosion on the contacts.

The only method I use for my wiring is soldering and adhesive-lined heat shrink...if I put a connector on, its soldered to the wire and heat shrink is used to seal it.

yes the connectors them selves are sealed, but im talking about where the wire actually goes into the connector, not sealed,
its not completly open, usually some type of a "grip" on the wire , but its not water tight.
 
One thing to remember is that the PVC insulation on wire is NOT moisture proof...it will saturate if left submerged, but that also allows it to dry out. Most wiring sees more dry condition that submerged condition.
 
yes the connectors them selves are sealed, but im talking about where the wire actually goes into the connector, not sealed,
its not completly open, usually some type of a "grip" on the wire , but its not water tight.



They are most indeed sealed...its a mechanical (read thermoplastic) seal, but it is definitely sealed.
 
They are most indeed sealed...its a mechanical (read thermoplastic) seal, but it is definitely sealed.

well your last post throws the "definetly sealed" part out...:msp_biggrin:

even if theyre actually mechanical seals, id still like to see if theyre actually water tight, id highly doubt that those connectors that cost cents to make would seal very well, any variance in tollerance, (worn mold, difference in wire insulation) would make them ineffictive...
i know theyre not really designed for fully submerged applications, but id still like to see if theyre water tight.
 
Sure some, crimp on connectors like on motorcycles do have a clear rubber boot that covers the connector. But there far from water tight.

Now that I think about it, when I had my water well re done and they put the submersible pump on at the bottom of the well. they did use crimp on connectors just like any other crimp on connectors but they used heat shrink with some kind of glue (probably heat glue) and they used two layers plus then using a 2” wide double sided electrical tape to wrap and score it to the pipe.
And he wrapped it with a lot, and I mean a lot of tape. then he tapped the wire every 20 foot stick of pipe as he lowered it down the hole.
There were no other connectors from where they connected the pump till the wire came out the top. So it was one solid 4 strand flat waterproof wire from the bottom to the top with no breaks in between. So it was a 400 foot wire from bottom to top.


The phone man gave me some phone wire connector that were like crimp on but it had a dab of silicone so when you crushed it the silicone would seal the connection.

Went back to the trailer shop and they did more testing and everything still checked out fine on there testers. Both the truck and the trailer.

The female 6 way conector that is on the bumper of the truck has been on there so long and has been plugged into a million times, I went ahead and bought a new one to replace it with since the trailer has a new as well.

Maybe the plug was just worn out from so much use, so when I get time I’ll replace it.

The breaks do seem to be getting better the more I use them, so maybe they just need to seat in.
 
If you have the 6 pin round plug, I have had the male part squeeze closed enough that it didn't make good contact. I've had to put a small screwdriver in the slot and open it a bit. They will have a tendency to close up cause when you unplug it we move it up and down to get it out. That's enough to do it. But it still didn't work like I wanted so I replaced it. I only use the 7 blade type now cuz that's what's on my fifth wheel.
 
Yeah I tried the spreading of the male prongs to try to get a better contact, didn’t work.
Well I say it didn’t work, I spread one a little too wide and when I went to plug the trailer in it pushed one of the female plugs back to far and wouldn’t make contact, then I had no blinker or break light on that side. So I just bought a new one. There cheap enough so why not just put a new one on.
I thought about going with a 7 plug but decided it would be easer to just replace the 6 plug since all I have to do is back out a few screws and re strip the end of the wire and screw it back in.
 
Trailer brakes

See if the arm on the magnet is rubbing the backing plate. If so I have out a washer behind it or replace backing plate. Hope that helps
 
Well FMINTA. I put the new plug on the truck and now everything is screwed up again.
Before you tell me I wired it wrong, don’t bother, it’s wired EXACTLY like it was before. I duplicated the wiring EXACTLY.
Now break light makes the running lights flash, flashers make everything flash.
I am so sick of this god damn trailer I’m about to climb a bell tower and start doing some target practice.

I just cant understand what the f is going on.
Do I just have to pay someone a frickin thousand dollars to wire this #### up rite?

I mean come on enough is enough already.

I’m PISSED as PISSED as anyone can ever be!
I’m just going to run with no lights breaks or anything else and just take my chances. F DOT, they can just kiss my ass!
 
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Well FMINTA. I put the new plug on the truck and now everything is screwed up again.
Before you tell me I wired it wrong, don’t bother, it’s wired EXACTLY like it was before. I duplicated the wiring EXACTLY.
Now break light makes the running lights flash, flashers make everything flash.
I am so sick of this god damn trailer I’m about to climb a bell tower and start doing some target practice.

I just cant understand what the f is going on.
Do I just have to pay someone a frickin thousand dollars to wire this #### up rite?

I mean come on enough is enough already.

I’m PISSED as PISSED as anyone can ever be!
I’m just going to run with no lights breaks or anything else and just take my chances. F DOT, they can just kiss my ass!

One of the wires you just put in the inside of the plug is touching another wire and causing that I just had that same problem on mine more than likely.
 
Trust me there are NO stray wires touching anything it’s not supposed to.
I even took my 3x reading glasses and did a throw inspection, there are no stray wires.
No way no haw.

Now my mouse is sticking on my PC and it’s making me even madder.

I just took 20 mill of valium, maybe that will calm me down.

I have over 40 hours of working on this trailer plus 5 trips to the trailer shop and it’s still jiving me fits. I even bought a new 10 gage dedicated ground wire and ran it from the battery on the truck all the way back to the trailer.

So what now? I’ve spent every dollar I have trying to fix this thing, I have no money left.
Its over, I’m just going to drive around like all these wet backs that run nothing on there equipment and let the chips fall where they may.
I may even just rip out all the wiring and have nothing hooked at all. I mean really can something so simple give me so much grief?

I have successfully built trailers from the ground up and never had such problems.
I built my first trailer from the ground up in school shop over 40 years ago and got first place on it at the state fare.

I’ve had no less then ten trailers over the years and nothing has given me so many problems.

I know your all going to say I’m missing something, but after 3 dedicated trailer shops have looked at it and did diagnostics and they all come up good, yet the problems persist.

Perhaps one of you out there that is saying its something simple that i'm missing please come look for your self. If you can fix the trailer , you can have it, it’s worth 3 grand.
Yours free for the taking.
No bull ####.
I’m done with it.
 
Trust me there are NO stray wires touching anything it’s not supposed to.
I even took my 3x reading glasses and did a throw inspection, there are no stray wires.
No way no haw.

Now my mouse is sticking on my PC and it’s making me even madder.

I just took 20 mill of valium, maybe that will calm me down.

I have over 40 hours of working on this trailer plus 5 trips to the trailer shop and it’s still jiving me fits. I even bought a new 10 gage dedicated ground wire and ran it from the battery on the truck all the way back to the trailer.

So what now? I’ve spent every dollar I have trying to fix this thing, I have no money left.
Its over, I’m just going to drive around like all these wet backs that run nothing on there equipment and let the chips fall where they may.
I may even just rip out all the wiring and have nothing hooked at all. I mean really can something so simple give me so much grief?

I have successfully built trailers from the ground up and never had such problems.
I built my first trailer from the ground up in school shop over 40 years ago and got first place on it at the state fare.

I’ve had no less then ten trailers over the years and nothing has given me so many problems.

I know your all going to say I’m missing something, but after 3 dedicated trailer shops have looked at it and did diagnostics and they all come up good, yet the problems persist.

Perhaps one of you out there that is saying its something simple that i'm missing please come look for your self. If you can fix the trailer , you can have it, it’s worth 3 grand.
Yours free for the taking.
No bull ####.
I’m done with it.

Well it ain't as bad as my problem my bucket truck with cat diesel engine just spun a thrust bearing for the crank and the transmission is blown up to boot. New truck is 120 K:dizzy: You aint seen a bad day!
 
Oh my! Praise the Lord, I'm in fantastic shape. And no I'll say no more. You've done everything I would have done so I have no more to add. I do feel for ya. I've been there on other things.
 

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