Ms200 intake boot

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Try the retainer off of the running saw.

not a bad idea, but it won't really matter if he uses teflon to tighten up the boot.

one could also measure the different retainers to see if there is a measurable difference in I.D.'s
 
not a bad idea, but it won't really matter if he uses teflon to tighten up the boot.

one could also measure the different retainers to see if there is a measurable difference in I.D.'s
If he tries the other one and it works he'll eliminate the cylinder or boot being the problem without question. You might see a slight difference in measurements but do you really identify it as the problem? Way easier to slip on another one and have the answer in my opinion.
Just make sure your pushing it down all the way, it's free of any dirt or crud, and lube it up a little bit.
 
If he tries the other one and it works he'll eliminate the cylinder or boot being the problem without question. You might see a slight difference in measurements but do you really identify it as the problem? Way easier to slip on another one and have the answer in my opinion.
Just make sure your pushing it down all the way, it's free of any dirt or crud, and lube it up a little bit.


I agree, but since I just had the same issue and fixed it, I have some background info that I didnt share earlier....

When I asked a local gold certified Stihl mechanic if he ever saw any loose retainers, he said "nope, just loose bad intake boots".... He said he never replaced a retainer that wasn't broken.
 
I agree, but since I just had the same issue and fixed it, I have some background info that I didnt share earlier....

When I asked a local gold certified Stihl mechanic if he ever saw any loose retainers, he said "nope, just loose bad intake boots".... He said he never replaced a retainer that wasn't broken.
I totally agree that your fix should work if he has that problem. I just think that he needs to first make sure it's what's causing the leak. I guess he really doesn't have too but it's the way I would go about it. Lots of people accomplish the same goal but go about it different ways, whatever gets his saw running again.
 
I totally agree that your fix should work if he has that problem. I just think that he needs to first make sure it's what's causing the leak. I guess he really doesn't have too but it's the way I would go about it. Lots of people accomplish the same goal but go about it different ways, whatever gets his saw running again.


Amen
 
I do have the same issue when I swap the boot off the running saw. That is why I was hesitant to buy another one if I was just going to have the same issue with a new boot
 
Upon further examination there seems to be a bit of a flat area in the rim of the cylinder intake. I don't know if that would be my issue. It is kind of hard to see but is very evident to the touch and it measures 6mm long.
 
Are you sealing the boot with the square white plastic retainer? Can you post pics of how you are pressure testing this ?
Yes I am using the retainer when pressure testing. And yes it is pressed down flush. Sorry no photos at the moment, but I don't think I am doing anything wrong in that regard. I'll get some photos up when I get some tape on it and retest.
Thanks for all the input guys.
 
When doing my pressure test I used a mityvac 8500. I sealed the exhaust port, sealed behind the carb, and left the spark plug in. I pumped the air through the impulse line. I pump up to 7 psi and it would drop about 1 psi over 20-30 sec. I used soapy water to identify my leak. I started with the hose connections. No leak. I went to the oil seals. No leak. I checked all the sealed cylinder ports. No leak. Then I sprayed the base of the intake boot, where it seals on the cylinder. Now I've got bubbles.
 
I did pressure and vac test without the boot after I saw the boot was leaking. It held 7psi for 3-4mins. And it held 7 on the vac test for 3-4mins. No needle movement on either pressure or vac
 

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