Wrecked cylinder????

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scheffa

scheffa

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image.jpeg Hey all, seized my 880 a few weeks as some of you know, got new piston, rings gaskets and crank seals, I thought the cylinder could be saved as it was only transfer however after cleaning it up a bit there are vertical grooves, just wondering if you guys think this can be salvaged
 
Big_Wood

Big_Wood

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there is still some transfer on that cylinder in small spots. i would run it no question if it was fine after that little bit more clean up. 880 cylinders are pricey! those grooves ain't gonna do much for performance anyways. now, if those aluminum looking area's are worn through plating i wouldn't run it. hard to tell but i'd think the area's would be bigger if they were worn through plating.
 
Big_Wood

Big_Wood

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For as hard as your saws work and knowing the price of 88 parts here in Oz, I wouldn't recommend running that cylinder!
I'd interested to hear some prices on 88 cylinders form US members.

the only spots ugly in that pic are the bottom right corner of the exhaust port and a little bit above. i'm almost certain it's just left over transfer. if those were gone it would be stupid not to run it. you might lose 5 psi to that minimal damage. i'v run way worse in my personal saws!
 
alexcagle

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http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...-cylinder-you-still-used.297267/#post-5866587
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Here is a link to a method on an awfully bad scored 261 cylinder. One additional thing; if after the tri stone hone and dremel paddle wheel trick , -if you have any stubborn black ring steel transfer spots that won't come off and you are concerned about burning through, use WD40 with the paddle wheel.
It tends to remove the black spots quickly, while not wearing through the nikasil.
I know the tri stone hone might seem a bit agressive, but I've never ruined a cylinder with one. Nikasil is tough stuff.
It is similar to knocking off the high spots like block sanding does in bodywork.

http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...-cylinder-you-still-used.297267/#post-5866587
 
Big_Wood

Big_Wood

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Try my method on the 261 cylinder. One additional thing; if after the tri stone hone and dremel, -if you have any stubborn black ring steel transfer spots that wont come off and you are concerned about burning through, use wd40 with the paddle wheel. It tends to remove the black spots quickly, while not wearing through the nikasil.
I know the tri stone hone might seem a bit agressive, but I've never ruined a cylinder with one. Nikasil is tough stuff.
It is similar to knocking off the high spots like block sanding does in bodywork.

http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...-cylinder-you-still-used.297267/#post-5866587

by the looks of that piston, you got real lucky on the cleanup of that cylinder!
 
scheffa

scheffa

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For as hard as your saws work and knowing the price of 88 parts here in Oz, I wouldn't recommend running that cylinder!
I'd interested to hear some prices on 88 cylinders form US members.

This is the reason I'm wanting to run this cylinder, I hate to think of much one will cost, was $360 just for piston kit, gasket and crank seals
 
smokey7

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That jug is rough.... spend a little more time on cleaning up. Run a dingle ball or triple stone hone in it clean all of the grit out inspect it close and give it a shot. Tune it rich with good oil and run it. You got nothing to lose. Those grooves will be negligible once running. Milling is rough on a saw and if you mill alot I'd find a cheaper parts available saw to use for milling.
 
Big_Wood

Big_Wood

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That link to the 261 cylinder didn't show a scored cylinder like this one. It was all nice and shiny in the reflection through the aluminum transfer.

This 880 cylinder is toast.

in your opinion ;) i'm not saying it's brand new or that i'd use it on a saw i was planning to sell but if i had an 880 i wanted to use myself i'd run it no question. to clean the rest up this is a time where i would put some acid on those spots to avoid sanding to much around the exhaust port. if a guy has the money for a new top end then by all means but i know i could make that cylinder cut wood again and still be reliable.
 
a. palmer jr.
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Like was said, if it's your saw and you want to take a chance go ahead. However, if it's your saw you can also buy an AM piston and cylinder for very little compared to OEM. I've used them on several occasions and would much rather run them than a beat up OEM cylinder. Around $30 from China..
 
alexcagle

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That link to the 261 cylinder didn't show a scored cylinder like this one. It was all nice and shiny in the reflection through the aluminum transfer.

This 880 cylinder is toast.
@Chainsaw Jim
I think you were looking at the TS420 before and after pics. Right after that post it shows the post of the after pic of a 261 that shows a piston in my hand.
It was worse looking than the 880 cylinder.
I would have taken a before pic of the 261, but I thought it would be a fruitless effort. It was locked up when I first got it, and it was difficult to get the cylinder pulled off the piston, so I sprayed a little WD in there.
 

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