Huztl MS660

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Did you buy OEM plastic? Mine did not say stihl or Magnum, in fact it was upside down.
View attachment 529398 View attachment 529397 View attachment 529396 Finished my 660 build last weekend got er done in about 7 hours total. Put some fuel in her and she fired up! With little to no adjustment needed for the carb settings.
Mine was missing the usual parts as the other members I'm going to order a few more from them this weekend and ask that the missing parts be included in my order. The biggest complaint I have would be the chain tensioner
It's seems to be made out of very soft cheap material I switched mine out for the oem.
And yes my fuel/oil caps leaked too!
 
Well got it running. I can't turn it over without the decompression valve open. Maybe I can install a kick-starter!
I was getting the carb tuned when it stalled. When tried to start it up, the key sheared on the flywheel. I did not test the compression before the failure. It feels like more than my 038 magnum (175).
Picture of sheared pin below. I don't think I tightened it enough.
 

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Mine had 150. Before I ever started it.


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I think it is higher the 175 psi. Even at 175 psi and 56mm bore it is about 670 pounds of force. Hopefully I can get a new key tomorrow at the dealer in town.
I broke two keys off on mine I ended up putting a washer under the nut as it didn't seem to sit flush on the flywheel Been working good so far fingers crossed make sure you torque it down to the oem specs or slightly better.
 
I think it is higher the 175 psi. Even at 175 psi and 56mm bore it is about 670 pounds of force. Hopefully I can get a new key tomorrow at the dealer in town.

Forgot you had 56. Didn't you lower the squish to. They might have a key Depends on how many pro saws they deal with.


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Really the key is there as a reference mostly. If the nut is tight you really don't need the key. Get a key and tighten good and tight with a ratchet and hold the clutch with a 3/4 wrench. Make sure the crank is oil free on the taper


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Does anyone want the torque spec for every screw.
It's in metric though


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I am going to double check mine. I did not put a wrench on the clutch, that seems like a good idea.


Really the key is there as a reference mostly. If the nut is tight you really don't need the key. Get a key and tighten good and tight with a ratchet and hold the clutch with a 3/4 wrench. Make sure the crank is oil free on the taper


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