Hand filing chain

[old guy]

The point is that once you learn to file correctly a new chain is dull compared to a "properly hand filed one" I understand that this is hard to understand but I'm just trying to let people know it's worth the patience it takes to learn how to do it correctly... what's dull to me is probably razor sharp to others...

I think what you mean is you can sharpen chain to cut the wood you cut the way you want to cut it.
New chain must be sharp (at least the stuff I buy) cuz it slashes the sh-t out of my fingers. I see these pictures of chips 3"-4" long, they didn't come from crosscutting dead dry red oak with a full comp chain, even at the saw races when I look at the chip from the winning saws do I rarely see chip more than an inch long except when noodeling.
And I even manage to win one once in a while so my filing can't be too bad




I have seen a couple of stihl chain that were not sharped well, I think they were new but I did not buy them new

 

[Philbert]

'Sharp' is a relative term. A razor blade is sharp, but would not hold up long cutting wood. An axe can be sharp for its purpose, but must be 'blunter' than a razor blade.

Chain manufacturers are not dumb - they choose bevels for their top plate and side plate cutting edges, and try to provide those as consistently as possible. They may a choose angles more biased toward durability than speed, and different than some users prefer. They may choose angles that hold up longer in certain types of cutting for an 'average' user. Users who are more fussy / particular about their chains, and know how to tweak them, may prefer to modify those factory / default edges towards their own liking. That's one of the benefits of sharpening your own chains.

'Razor sharp' edges might not hold up as well through the manufacturing and shipping processes as well. Most cutters are sharpened before assembly, and may be tumbled around with other cutters. Chains jostle around in packages, etc. Finer bevels would be more subject to damage and breakage, and even more unhappy customers. Note that most high end woodworking tools (plane irons, chisels, etc.) are also sold and shipped the same way, with instructions for the user to give the edges a 'final honing' before use.

Philbert

 

[Efisher26]

Sharpened my first chain by hand today. Bought a set from tractor supply, $14. I started with the guide, but I can't see the file against the tooth. So I tried it without the guide, much easier IMO, given its a newer chain and still had factory angle, I couldn't believe the cutting difference between that and electric sharpener on the same chain. I couldn't push down hard enough on the saw, it just cut faster and faster.


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[pro94lt]

Make sure you wear safety glasses. I had to get a shaving removed from my eye... wasn't fun.

 

[ANewSawyer]

Well, first the money shot. No pun intended. And one of my favorites. I happened to pull that penny out of my pocket and 1991 is one of my favorite years.



A pile of chips I picked up and the previous chip came out of it.





And the log from which the chips came.



And some more cutters. BTW, these ere before I blew the chain off. I used canned air because that is all I have.

Pretty sure This was the first chain I ever sharpened. Quoted this from an old thread of mine since my computer crashed and took these photos with it.

 

[Andyshine77]

Sharpened my first chain by hand today. Bought a set from tractor supply, $14. I started with the guide, but I can't see the file against the tooth. So I tried it without the guide, much easier IMO, given its a newer chain and still had factory angle, I couldn't believe the cutting difference between that and electric sharpener on the same chain. I couldn't push down hard enough on the saw, it just cut faster and faster.


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You don't need to see the whole tooth just the top plate. I find a slight upward angle gets into the working corner better than keeping the file perfectly horizontal.

Most new chain chisel chain comes from the factory with too much hook, and the depth gauges are set too high, that have to be with that much hook. Too much hook makes the working corner bite harder, but it also makes the chain grabby. This is why they set the gauges like they do. Also having too much hook makes the working corner thin and weak, so durability suffers.

In some types of wood you'll never see those huge chips, and honestly when you understand how a chain functions, you'll learn long strings can be counter productive. Obviously you'll always get long noodles when you rip cut.

 

[Efisher26]

I looked more down on the tooth, making sure the the file touched the whole edge of the top plate, in doing so I was able to file in all right places. 0p


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[Andyshine77]

I looked more down on the tooth, making sure the the file touched the whole edge of the top plate, in doing so I was able to file in all right places. 0p


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You're guide may be different, as I can see the whole top plate edge with the Stihl guide I use. As long as you're getting proper hook you'll be fine.

 

[Philbert]

I looked more down on the tooth, making sure the the file touched the whole edge of the top plate, in doing so I was able to file in all right places.

File (and grinding wheel) shape and sharpen both the TOP plate cutting edge and the SIDE plate cutting edge, at the same time. This is why an earlier post suggested covering these areas with a felt tip marker prior to sharpening, to see which area the file is hitting and missing. If you use a different size file, or change any of the 3 main file angles, or try to define a different 'hook', you may be missing part of the cutting edges.

Easier to see with good lighting, or using a small mirror if needed. Or by using the marker as noted. I check each cutter, and do not assume.

Philbert

 

[Efisher26]

Ya the set I bought was a tractor supply brand, the guide blocked all view of tooth, I checked every every tooth as I went while not using the guide.


-Efisher26-

 

[p61 western]

Is the Oregon guide supposed to ride the tooth and raker?

 

[ANewSawyer]

Your talking about the kind that has the brass plate on each side right? I assume riding on tooth and raker is correct because I don't see how to do it any other way.

 

[p61 western]

The old school one that the file clamp's into.

 

[Efisher26]

My basic guide floats just above the chain touching only if tipped either way


-Efisher26-

 

[Boomer 87]

The file guide set I got from tri- link is just the one that clamps the file on each end, so it is difficult to see the tooth. What I finally did was filed the gullet some then put pressure upward with the file and took some off the top plates until it was wicked sharp. Probly not the right way but it worked as the chain cut well big chips no dust. One other thing for getting it sharp and not making dust is engine health the engine won't suck in chips but it absolutely will suck on dust. Many a saw has fallen prey to pulling in a large amount of dust off a dull chain

 

[p61 western]

I can see the tooth ok with the Oregon guide.I did some testing on a chain today,if I keep the guide on just the tooth it comes out so so.Then I tried with the guide on the tooth and depth gauge,and it was way sharp compared to riding just on the tooth.

 

[Efisher26]

I push the file in towards gullet not down


-Efisher26-

 

[Boomer 87]

Maybe that was my issue I wasn't resting the other side on raker. That's why I couldnt get any hook out of it that way..... see still learning

 

[p61 western]

I couldn't get any hook so that's why I tried it.I will try it in wood tomorrow.I'm always learning.

 

[Boomer 87]

I know the other trick i did pulling up some I mean it got me where I wanted to go the only thing may be I got the top plates to thin to easy to chip maybe but it feels good when I check it by finger. feels sharp