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Hydraulic splitters are pretty hands free maintenance wise. Put gas in them, change the engine oil once or twice a year, throw a tarp over them till the next time you need it.

That's just not my experience with a kinetic splitter. Once you get your head around the general fidgetting with them, your good to go.

The bearing, cam roller, whatever...needs constant attention, cleaned, lubbed, taken off and unfroze, etc. Only takes a minute or five, then back splitting.
I've had a completely different experience with the Super Split than you have. Only replaced a couple of bearings.

But I've only split 70-80 cords in 7 years and the splitter stays in a shed when not used.
 
I ordered the UHMW-PE tubing to try. 1/4" hole, 7/8" outside dia. My thought is even if it does not roll like a bearing, it should slide and not groove the beam. If it wears out, I'll have 3' of stock to make more. If it doesn't work, I'll turn it 90*, and drill a hole to mount a 1" piece of it length ways, so it slides like a sled, on the bottom radius of the circle. Just a narrow strip to ride on. Should be here Friday.

Have not used the SS since the wagon wheel mod. Wood lot is super wet and don't want to rut it up with the forklift moving logs. Hard not to jump out there when it hits 50* and the sun pops out. Lots of wind to dry it out, then rains a bit. Patience...
 
Hope the UMHW-PE roller works for you.

When I tried the snowmobile track slides (UMHW) cut into a slice that fit in where the bearing went, it did not work for me. It would slide out and split the piece of wood, but the return springs were not strong enough to pull the rack back with it on there. I had to grab the rack and manually help it back.

You all have seen the grove on the top of my beam so that might have made it worse as far as sliding goes as it's kinda rough.

I have thought about bolting a thin strip in front of the push plate to act as a sweeper on the beam. Figured if it wa narrow, it wouldn't cause much drag. I dragged it home yesterday from the woodyard to do some maintenance and modifie the engagement handle, maybe I will try to make a bracket to hold the UMHW to the front of the pusher plate and see if it works.
 
Somebody is going to hit on something at this rate.
I would be curious to know how many SS Paul sold last year.
When I joined the site, one occasionally heard about a kinetic and it peaked my interest. Several years went by before I could order one because I bought a forklift first to handle logs.

:drinkingcoffee:UPS just came with the UHMW-PE stock
Rain day...hard to believe, but now I have a new garage project.
 
I
Well, forgot to bring my wrenches up to take the bolt off so I could get a part number. Here is the pictures though

View attachment 559504

View attachment 559505



As you can see the beam is torn up from the failed cam follower bearings locking up. Have not had a single problem since switching to the double roller bearing. Counted the crates today and have done 16cords and not sprayed the beam once. Also it is returning good with just one spring as the second one broke and I have yet to fix that.

@mijdirtyjeep

What is the OD of the bearings you used? I'm finding 3/4" OD bearings that have the other 2 dimensions right.. But not sure of the reduction in OD is going to be an issue.
 
So what does a guy with minimal mechanical aptitude do regarding getting one of these inertia splitters fixed as they seem to need pretty frequent attention. Hydraulic shops will work on most worst case scenarios for a hydro splitter. Hydro shops are pretty common. So what do you do when your SS, DR crap out?
 
I am not sure that one thread about a $15 part speaks to the failed reliability of a SS.

I have a hydro with a 4 way, a splitter that attaches to my 80hp skid steer, and a SS HD model. Hands down the SS is the go to, and that is processing ugly free wood dropped off from tree services.

I keep a can of WD40 or PB and spray the bearing every hour or so, and no problems at all so far with 100 cords give or take through it.

I know the WD is not the best option for lubrication, but it also clears the beam of any accumulated sap.

Like I said the bearing that costs less than a tankful of splitter fuel, and would take about as long to change as it would to fill the tank is going strong after 100 cords.
 
I have the UHMW-PE made and mounted. As someone else said much earlier, I think it will develop a flat spot just sitting. So far however, it seems to work. Just need two years product development and testing. The material is soft and picks up stuff from the beam. Still rolling at this point.
 
I don't know if it can be done for/on your machine but a splitter we have had a similar problem we had difficulty sourcing replacements,which failed sooner than the originals, we had 2 steel sleeves & bronze sleeve X 2 made,the steel one was a tight fit & the bronze revolved on it. The bronze one was drilled & a grease nipple fitted to provide lubrication it's still going strong 18 month on, the bronze has a pressed on steel outer ring so it revolves on the inner sleeve.
 
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@mijdirtyjeep

What is the OD of the bearings you used? I'm finding 3/4" OD bearings that have the other 2 dimensions right.. But not sure of the reduction in OD is going to be an issue.

I just brought it last night back to my woodyard in Whitehall after doing some maintenance and engagement handle mods.

I am heading out today to pick up a 2/cord load of already split oak with the big trailer for my bundleing operation. It's from a new source so hopefully it's quality stuff. My other source just can't keep up and ran out of wood. Kinda figured he would @ $100/cord all oak split off the processsor right into my dump trailer :D

When that is done, I will run over to the woodyard and try to bet you a measurement.
 
So what does a guy with minimal mechanical aptitude do regarding getting one of these inertia splitters fixed as they seem to need pretty frequent attention. Hydraulic shops will work on most worst case scenarios for a hydro splitter. Hydro shops are pretty common. So what do you do when your SS, DR crap out?
This thread is about one small inexpensive bearing that takes 5 minutes or less to replace.

The SS doesn't ever crap out. :rolleyes:
 
This is not a common issue, but the bearing is considered a wear item and will need replacing at some point

Do you think there is a better bearing that could be used? One designed for greater longevity and requires less maintenance? Does a closed bearing make more sense? I honestly don't have a clue.
 
I


@mijdirtyjeep

What is the OD of the bearings you used? I'm finding 3/4" OD bearings that have the other 2 dimensions right.. But not sure of the reduction in OD is going to be an issue.

Do you think there is a better bearing that could be used? One designed for greater longevity

Only for a fellow AS member would I tear my SS back apart in the cold so I could get a pic of the S/N on a bearing.

IMG_1582.JPG

2 of these together with a thin machine washer in between the two have worked great so far. Will put another 3 cords through it by Sunday night for a total of 19-cords on these bearings.

I don't spay me beam anymore and do t bother to clean off the build up either!
 
Only for a fellow AS member would I tear my SS back apart in the cold so I could get a pic of the S/N on a bearing.

View attachment 560492

2 of these together with a thin machine washer in between the two have worked great so far. Will put another 3 cords through it by Sunday night for a total of 19-cords on these bearings.

I don't spay me beam anymore and do t bother to clean off the build up either!

Thanks... Looks to be a 3/4" OD bearing.

ETA: width looks to be .2812 each. Overall width on the follower is .5625 so it looks like they will just fit. How thick is the machine washer you're using?
 
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