Huztl FarmerTec MS380, MS381, 038 Build Kit Start to Finish

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The cases went together easily. Case halves in oven and crank in freezer. Crank dropped right in on tapered end and the clutch side easily pulled in with the m5x18 bolts. I used motoseal 1 on both sides of the gasket.

I left the seals in place. The clutch end of the crank is stepped and it started to pucker the seal. I used a small screw driver to gently get the seals past the step and everything looks good.

I centered the crank in the case leaving about 54 mils of clearance on both sides. It spins freely. Now off to work.
 

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Looks good. I always worry that the spring came off the back of the seal
 
Stihl shows using the stihl hook to remove the oil line. So it appears then that connector is permanent more or less. I am going to look into it more but if that is a fact. I want an OEM connector. They would have to be made really well to be able to plug and unplug the oil hose remotely. And they are only 3$
 
It arrived. They are now bubble wrapping several parts like case, cylinder, flywheel, clutch/drum and a couple more.

The case looks to be equal quality of the other huztl cases I have worked on.

The cylinder bore looks good but the plug threads are very rough and not machined. It also has a partial divider protruding into the intake port. I don't know if this is on the oem cylinders.
I have just put a farmertec 52mm p&c (with a couple of cabers) on a OEM but blown 038 super (bit of grinding of the cylinder needed to make it fit) that needed a new intake boot due to a lean failure. Mine looked rough on the chamfers, the intake flange and the plugs were machined after casting though. Mine didn't have a de-comp hole. Works a treat so far and is strong.... Oh I base deleted the gasket and modded the muffler..
 
Stihl shows using the stihl hook to remove the oil line. So it appears then that connector is permanent more or less. I am going to look into it more but if that is a fact. I want an OEM connector. They would have to be made really well to be able to plug and unplug the oil hose remotely. And they are only 3$

A long set of big curved hemostats works great for oil and fuel lines inside of tanks.

Mine move back and forth between my chainsaw toolbox and ocean fishing tackle box, I need to get another.........
 
It look like the only thing to install prior to putting the two case halves together is the oil pick-up assembly. You can't do that after its together. Obviously the crank goes in too.

The bearings are nice too.

Is the oil line connector metal (brass) or plastic? I can't remember what the OEM one (1118 028 7400) is made of?

Also, were there any markings on the crank bearings so you could tell manufacture, or were those covered up by the seals?
 
I am in the middle of calling all the dealers in driving distance to see if they have one on the shelf. Two mechanics could not recall about the connector. As always will report what I find
 
Is the oil line connector metal (brass) or plastic? I can't remember what the OEM one (1118 028 7400) is made of?

Also, were there any markings on the crank bearings so you could tell manufacture, or were those covered up by the seals?
There was a steel oil line connector already installed in the case. I could not see any markings on the bearings.
 
The thing is you are connecting to another hose/pipe that does not look replaceable. Was it metal?
 
Cool, on the metal connector being in place. Looking at a book can be deceiving.
 
Looks good. I always worry that the spring came off the back of the seal
That is a potential concern. The lip seal had just started to catch on the crank step when I adjusted it. It was never completely inverted.
 
This could be of help in the future. If your kit gets shipped SF Express which is pretty quick and you see it get to NY on the east coast it gets handed off to another carrier and your tracking updates get all fuzzy. I found a US customer service number for SF manned by a very well spoken staff that verified me and gave me the delivery info plus the new UPS tracking number so the tracking would then be in real time. its 855-nine01-1133.

Not that anyone would ever wonder when their kit was coming.
 
The connector pin bearing would not fit all the way into the piston until I filed some casting seams.
The squish is 25 mils without the base gasket. I with delete the gasket on my kit. The base gasket is a good quality fiber.
 

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It's built. The quality of the parts were very high quality. Probably the best Huztl kit I've done. The clutch and drum were oem quality and the drum was Stihl branded. The flywheel was also very high quality. The plastic on the rear handle towards the top in the carburetor area was a little flimsy but servicable.

The top cover looked almost brown in indoor lighting. It looked fine outside.

I will start it tomorrow after the motoseal cures overnight.

No missing parts. Only two parts left over. The base gasket and an extra insert for the chain brake handle.
 

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Awesome. Mine is scheduled tomorrow by UPS. They just get better.

I came home today and found a chainsaw that was mine being shipped to me Literally sitting next to the mailbox post. Guy drives by in a truck sees the saw box thinks it's lost and needs a home throws it in his truck to protect it and I never see it again. Yeah post office
 
I found a helpful tool. If you have never seen or used press fluid it was my first encounter and I was impressed and since it is better and about the same price is everything else I though I would show it to you. Made that AV go right in. Putting in oil hoses through the crankcase can be aggrevating and not with this.
 
That clutch drum is a fake. And is worrisome. Here is a oem. This isn't a 038 drum but they all have about the same markings. And the casting looks rougher
81d922818e29eca81fc92d1a6d347546.jpg
 

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