Thread: Diesel grades in winter?

Do you change the grade of fuel you run in the winter time?

It's not usually this cold here in PA, and I have never had a problem before. But, we got a new load of fuel just before winter, No 2 off road. I looked in the tractors manual a couple of months ago and noticed that it recomends that you run No 1 at temps below 39F.

In any case, I've had some problems with the tractor misfiring. I've tried all kinds of things. Thought maybe it was sucking air, but no evidence. At my fathers suggestion, I added about a quart of Kerosene to six gallons of diesel. So far that has fixed the problem.

At what temp do you have problems with fuel gelling? Also I was wondering if it had something to do with the fuel, like maybe a bad load or something.

If I can find some, I want to try the Lucas oil products cold weather treatment. I've heard good things about their stuff, and the advertisement states that it won't gell to -30F. Anybody try this stuff?

Thanks for you advise.

Now correct me if I'm wrong, but the way I understand it, No2 offroad is the same as home heating oil and both are the same as No2 over-the-road, except for red dye in the off the road. In the case of home heating oil the dealers around here offer a "winter mix" for people with tanks that are outside so I would imagine that a winter mix would be in order for your tractor. No1 is kerosene around here, so that would explain why adding some to your diesel seems to have fixed things. I've only used or driven equipment that runs diesel a handful of times so my experience is limited, except in the Army, but that stuff will run on any kind of crap you pour in the tank.

Thanks for the info Mike.

I'm stuck at home today, and I've been doing some research on diesel fuel. According to mobil.com, heating oils and kerosene are not the same as diesel fuels. Because they are not measured for cetane number and cloud point, two characteristics that are important to engine operation.

However they do recomend that you burn a mix of No. 1-D and 2-D and not just No. 1-D, as it has less energy content. Its a pretty interesting site, if anybodies looking for info. However I keep in mind that they are advertising their products.

I've been plowing snow with the tractor for the last three days. I ran out of Kero to mix with so I had to put the straight fuel in it. She stalled on me about once an hour. I drained the tanks on it yesterday, thinking that I may have water and/or dirt contamination. I found no water, but very little dirt that shouldn't make a difference. I also found that the cap is not venting properly. So, my conclusion is that my problem is a combination of fuel quality and a tank vaccum situation.

I think I fixed the cap yesterday, and I'm looking into a cold weather additive for the fuel.

Again, thanks for the help.

Number 2 diesel and home heating fuel CAN be different. I believe the sulphur levels are not as critical in the heating oil. In our distribution area it is not worth the trouble to have separate tanks etc so they bring in only no 2 diesel and add dye for heating and off road use. The winter or no. 1 diesel has some lighter components added ( kerosene) to keep the waxy components from crystallizing out. They look just like water with slush in it. My uncle worked in the arctic and they used to add 10%gasoline to the diesel to prevent gelling. I'm not telling you to do this though! The No 1 Diesel does have a lower Btu content and mileage suffers ( maybe though it is just higher wind resistance from the denser winter air though; what ya think Fish)
I run a VW diesel and they have a recirculating fuel heating system with a thermostat on it.

Frank

Just get some JP-8. When I was coord for supplies into Alert NWT that is all we shipped there via C-130 on Boxtop operations. Burn it in your diesel engined car or truck, fuel your diesel generator and fill up your turbine aircraft.

Winter diesel in my area is a 50/50 blend of #1 and #2 diesel. That being said #2 diesel with Power service arctic express added has the same CFPP as the blend, has better lubricity and will net you better mileage. If I had my own tank I would run additized #2 year round. FWIW jp8, kerosens isnt the best for diesel engine fuel. low lubricity and BTU's compared to diesel. Todays emmisions compliant engines need lubricty or there injection pumps fail.

I agree with bwalker. In my area, during the winter, the truck stops run a blended mix. In Pennsylvania, they should also be running a blend through the pumps. You may have bought fuel to soon. When buying diesel, buy from a big truck stop. They run alot of fuel through, and keep in mind that the trucks running through there are going all over the US and Canada, so if they sold a fuel that would gel during winter, no trucker would ever stop. There is also a probability that the fuel you have has bacteria in it. If you bought from someone without alot of turnover, bacteria is a big problem. The easiest way to find this out is to spin off you're fuel filter, cut the metal housing off, and look at the paper filter element, if it is black, there is bacteria in the fuel, clogging the element. Buy a product to treat bacteria. If gelling is a problem, buy Power Service treatment, and read the directions. This additive can also be run any time of year, and I always recommend it. Good luck.

Thanks earache.

I took care of the problem. It was a combination of gelling and poor ventilation. The boss ordered the fuel in late October. We store it in a 275 gallon tank outside. I'm not sure where she ordered it from, either Agway or a home fuel supplier.
Since I had the problem, I have become aware of the bacteria problems associated with fuel. Its good to know an easy way to tell if you have that problem. I have a filter that I pulled off recently, and I'm going check it.