It was really hot here today again (over 100F) but I started working on adapting the BIL mill to take the 880. Because the 880 bar bolts are further back in the saw body that the 076, the 880 needs to sit further back in the mill frame mount so the oil tank can clear the mill frame. I thought of making another mill specific to the 880. However, given I have more than enough projects on the go for the moment I figured the quickest way to get milling with the 088 is to adapt the current mill
For reference here is the 076 mount.
Two extra long bar bolts pass thru the bar, then pass thru a 1/2 ally spacer plate (to stop the chain rubbing on the mill) and then the bolts pass through the mill frame. Simple, strong and it works. One diasadvantage is the disassembly is messy and the power head and bar tend to bind and all fall apart when removing the power head from the mill.
As I said above, the 880 has a longer body so I could not use the existing bolt holes because the body protrudes and would hit the mill cross bar. However I did work out I could just move the mill back by the distance between the bolt holes so I could at least use an existing hole in the mill.
Turn one new extra length bar bolt and make a new space plate from 1/2" ally plate.
Mount bar and space plate plate to saw by the innermost bar bolt.
Mount CS onto mill. The mounting process is much easier that for the 076 since the bar is locked to the saw by the short bolt through the spacer plate.
At X you can see how close the saw body (oil tank) is to the mill.
Also show is an existing hole (A) in the mill which will be used to bolt the spacer plate onto the mill. I may also add another bolt at B. The overhang from the space plate at C will be cut back flush with the edge of the mill mount.
The inboard dogs are not in the way but I will probably take them off to save a bit of weight.
I have one remaining problem. Mounting the 076 in this way I could not retain the chain brake as the clutch cover would not fit and so was not used. But the 880 has a more compact inboard chain brake which I would like to keep on . If I do this the chain brake handle is about 1/4" too close to the roller wheel for the brake to be released. A simple solution looks like to cut a small notch in the chain brake handle but that wheel has to be adjustable up and down the vertical so a single notch would not work.
So I will have to take the wheel off and turn off that 1/4" from the wheel - removing that wheel to do this is a PITA as the whole inboard part of the mill has to be taken dismantled to achieve this!
This mounting arrangement loses me about 1.5" of cut width, which annoys me. One solution is just to go to longer bars but I recently invested in a new 42" bar since I found the 42" bar with the 39.5" cut works really well for the majority of stuff I have cut in the past.
I will also need to make some sort of sawdust cover to stop it going all over the place. I have a couple of ideas based on AggieWB's approach.