Thread: White spots that kill Maples?

I see hard maples (sugar maples or something like them) usually juvenile tree dying all over. They have these white spots all over (fungus). Then whole branches dead, eventually killing whole tree. Please advise.

Here's a couple examples from my parent yard. Sorry for the horrible structure as I just started learning how to prune trees correctly in the last couple years!





This one is half way up the canopy. Seems to be more spots up higher.


After this....


Comes this...

Maybe this is elementary for you guys but I'm just learning plant health. Maybe you can recommend some good books so I can stop boring you!

Thanks in advance.

Maybe this is elementary for you guys but I'm just learning plant health. Maybe you can recommend some good books so I can stop boring you!

Thanks in advance.[/QUOTE]

I don't know about everybody else but I like your posts. I am learning too and isn't that the point of being able to discuss things with other professionals? Some have more experience than others and they are the ones who we would hope would help us by giving their advice and opinions. Asking is a part of learning....

Books are great and I am all about learning and having reference materials but sometimes seeing these things first hand is better than just trying to memorize images from a book.

I say keep posting and asking questions! (plus it keeps those old guys on their toes....Joking you guys )

I was curious myself so I did a little research. I think it is white stain lichen but only found two pages that actually mention it, listed here http://www.magma.ca/~rel/mfc/studyarea/lichens2.html and http://www.umce.ca/foresterie/plantenb/lichens.pdf on pg 16. I'm not 100 % But I don't think lichens or mosses affect tree health. That pic of the exposed area and peeling bark was probably caused by insects boring through the bark, and then the bark coming off later. Anybody else?

Borers in the one pic!!, the blotching......possible scale(there are many kinds), dont rule out powdery mildew!!

One thing Ive ran into down my way is verticulum wilt which when it hits seems like alot of the signs you have follow(hope I spelled it right).

If there is a college where you`re at talk to them they might be able to help, I call on mine alot!!

Good Luck


LXT................

The borers are secondary. They are opportunistic and that wound represents easy access.

The tree is primarily stressed 4rom being buried too deep. ALWAYS, we must see that buttress flair. This is a thin barked specie and the mortality spiral begins with soil born pathogens attacking the trunk. The roots can withstand extended periods of moisture while the trunk will ROT.

Get the soil away from the base of this tree so it can begin to dry. Keep mulch on the rhyzo, but away from the trunk, practice optimum cultural habits and possibly look into a chemical barrier to suppress the borer attacks. Monitor for white peach scale. Scales are nasty horrible and difficult to control.

Just try to keep this tree as healthy as possible. Healthy plants can produce chemicals that insects refuse to expend necessary energy to detoxify. They move on to the easier prey in your neighbors yard.

As you can tell, I am more interested in monitoring this trees long term health after the root collar excavation than I am the "white blotches". Ignore the lichen.

Good luck and be gentle and thoughtful about the roots you encounter as you excavate.

yup no connection tween lichen and bugs.

diseases of trees by sinclair is the book you need.

it could also use a cable.

I just ordered the book from Amazon, 68 new 17 bucks used, nice. These are sugar maples right? I agree the one on the hillside looks like it's been filled. However as this is my parents home I can attest that neither have been in the last 13-14 years. The worse specimen, one with borers, actually had a lot of erosion in the root zone with no grass growth.. They are both on slopes so should have not seen excessive moisture. When it gets warm I will excavate the roots by hand carefully. I see other maples with this problem and I agree most people plant trees too deep. I don't think the case is closed on this one. I have absolutely no experience with chemicle application whatsoever. What chemicle would be used to fight off these borers and where do I start equipment wise.

you sure thats a sugar, looks like a red maple?????


LXT..........

Originally Posted by corndogg

I have absolutely no experience with chemicle application whatsoever. What chemicle would be used to fight off these borers and where do I start equipment wise.

The gold standard chemical for borer control would be Onyx. Try your local Lesco Hort supply. Chem apps r no joke. Follow the label!! Keep it off you and out of you. Abort if any wind.
This is only because the tree is super stressed. Until it can fend for itself a chemical barrier to protect against borer damage is a good idea. Borers represent some of the most detrimental insects that attack our landscape trees.

Don't try to treat the entire crown. Research and learn about your prey to discover why. Time your treatment to affect the pest when it is most susceptible during it's life cycle.

Prescription before diagnosis = MALPRACTICE... normally. But when it comes to a tree this stressed i can see recommending a pre-emptive chem app.

Originally Posted by masterarbor

it could also use a cable.

I, respectfully, disagree.

I, respectfully, disagree. [/QUOTE]

Included bark @ the junction of the 2 central leads? I would think it may need a cable also. Awful smooth bark for a sugar, could it be a hybrid red?

Yeah, probably is a red. I think it turns bright red in fall. To me it's a hard maple, gets treated the same. Since everybody's so worries about the structure. Any chance of reducing one side or cutting it off all together? It's not too tall yet but probably could use a cable someday.

I agree, some day it may need a cable. Certainly not now.

agree with root crown exam as needed, lichen as harmless mutualist, not sure about preventive insecticide; better first to remove heavy infestations and deadwood. that may remove the problem without chem.

way too late to prune out that bark inclusion; cable would be reasonable prevention.