Will this young tree straighten up?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

whitenack

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Jul 4, 2002
Messages
339
Reaction score
5
Location
Harrodsburg, ky
Please see the pic. A young Gikgo, planted 2-3 years ago. Got a good deal on it because it was sitting against the roof of the greenhouse and had this bend in it. I figured it would straighten up over time, but hasn't yet. I tried staking it straight this summer, but when I untied it, it went back.

Will it ever straighten?

I will probably be selling this house in the next 3-5 years. Would it be best to just pull this thing up and trying something different?

attachment.php


attachment.php
 
If it's only been 2 yrs or so it has just started to put out good root growth before it will start putting on more top growth. If you could wait a while the growth probably will start to grow straight up again but you'll still have that jog in the trunk. If you want it to straighten out find a good spot along the trunk below where it curves and cut the whole top back to a good smaller side brach. The side branch will take over as the leader and maybe send another shoot or 2 out also, then you can select the best 1 in a couple years and cut off the others.
 
Top it below the bend. I did it on one of mine and it straightened up. That's what I would do, but I don't have any tree degrees to speak of.
 
tree is fine. Looks great. Planted @ correct depth.

I would double the size of the mulch bed and lose the liriope. Mulch @ 3-4". know that whatever you applied to rid the fescue of broadleaf weeds, could, effect your tree, as they share the same space within the soil.

The tree will most likely straighten on it's own.
 
We rescued a young linden that had been staked similarly to your Ginkgo with a bend in its trunk (again, similarly to your Ginkgo). Whereas, the tree hasn't straightened up entirely yet, it is far better and IS straightening. Please pull the t-posts.

I would highly recommend NOT topping this tree as I think, as others do, that it will be fine in time.

I, too, hope Mr. Elmore sticks his head in here for a specialist's opinion.

Sylvia
 
Providing that your beautiful little ginkgo tree does not receive maltreatment in the form of “topping”, the tree will develop into a well rounded mature tree. The bow in the trunk will always be there, but as the scaffold limbs develop to establish the crown, it may not be that noticeable. If you do not have the experience to prune this tree correctly, and select the branches that will eventually form the scaffolds, spend the money to hire an expert. I would recommend you find an ISA Certified Arborist that is qualified.

If the root system has anchored the tree properly, and the trunk is firm enough to stand up on its own, it would be best to pull the stakes. This will remove the artificial support, and the tree will actually become stronger quicker.
 
Last edited:
If the root system has anchored the tree properly, and the trunk is firm enough to stand up on its own, it would be best to pull the stakes. This will remove the artificial support, and the tree will actually become stronger quicker.

The stakes are not there for support. I put them up this summer to straighten the tree, hoping that staking it straight would force it straight. I took the string off a few days ago and the tree still bends. I haven't removed the stakes yet, in case you guys recommended re-staking it for straightness.
 
The stakes are not there for support. I put them up this summer to straighten the tree, hoping that staking it straight would force it straight. I took the string off a few days ago and the tree still bends. I haven't removed the stakes yet, in case you guys recommended re-staking it for straightness.

And that's just it, you CAN'T force it straight. As BCMA stated, in time you will not even be able to tell this tree had a lean; and in fact, Ginkgo's can be an elegant, asymetrical structure. We have a pressing need to have everything perfect and that just isn't mandatory in most situations.

Sylvia
 
It would drive me crazy to see that crooked little tree everyday. I'm completely against topping mature trees, I'd consider this corrective pruning of a shrimpy little twig. But that's just me:spam:

I have a Black Gum about that size in my front yard that had the top broken out at some point and had 1 90 degree branch growing out the side of the top. I snipped the top off last winter and it has 2 new shoots that have grown straight up from there and are about 2 ft. already. I'll leave 1 and cut off the other sometime soon.
 
Top the tree at the same height as the posts holding it up and then encourage the development of the root system as opposed to the height of the tree. Keep topping it till the trunk is strong enough to hold itself up then let it go on its own. It will get better looking but sometimes it takes some drastic measures. It's your tree, do with it as you will. Any way you look at it, whatever you do, it won't die. The idea of topping has proof the tree won't die from Nails experiences. Good luck. :cheers:
 
You don't need to top the tree.

Young whippy trees of this nature can be easily straightened by a professional but it has been my experience that most homeowners can make a muck of it through lack of understanding. This was why it was not suggested to you, just as in describing to a homeowner how to prune a tree, without being on site to guide them, rarely produces the desired results.

If this is so distracting that something MUST be done to satisfy you, get someone qualified on site to give you a hand. Tying the tree up on the t-posts produces the opposite effect that you were hoping to achieve. That is why you saw no results and another growing season went by.

The best procedure I have seen on young, whip-like trees is with a stiff, lightweight rod, long enough to correct the bent area, but not attached to the ground. This is usually made of bamboo and lashed to the trunk with stand offs, mechanically straightening the bend but also preventing excessive branch and trunk abrasions. This method does not prevent the tree from moving in the wind, which is an extremely important part of the tree's development.

Dave
 
Stake and Train

You could bend it back severely at the point where it bends, breaking the lignified cellulose fibers that support it at that point. You may have to do this several times making sure that you don't damage the meristem or ever growing tissue. The llignified fibers or wood should be broken. Then get a couple of 8' sturdy stakes and replace those t-posts. Tie supports both below and above the critical bend then finally a tie at the bend pulling it into line with the trunk and the terminal (readjusting tension on all points as you go). The key is to break the internal supporting structure without breaking the cambium. Just like an orthopedic would break a badly healed bone in order to straighten it.

You could use some device like the Tree TrainerTM below. If your tree would support it.
I have a similar device squirreled away here somewhere but have not been able to find it to reference from.

http://www.treetrainer.com/

tree3.jpg


Or you could top it just below the bend just above a nice looking bud.
 
here is a good trick

When I was younger my grandma showed me a trick for training apple trees we all know they grow fairly unruly . anyways get a length of 12 gauge romex and strip one of the coated wires out of it then wrap it coil fashion around the tree from the base to the top then straighten the tree with the solid copper every once in a while just go out and straighten it some more works great for apples and im sure it would fix this to . she got this idea from her dad he used to do this to make bonsai's . and I was always told staking a tree is not very good because it doesnt encourage them to set roots propely because it cant swing in the wind like it should so it doesnt put them down and the heavy side of the tree.
 
Last edited:
Trunk-Aid

My wife found the missing device that I mentioned. She's a sweetheart.
It's called "Trunk- Aid" nursery hook and brace. It is or was sold by Rehmert Nursery Inc. in Greenville, OH.. I have yet to put my one device to the test but below is some information from the Southern Nursery Association research pages.

http://mail.sna.org/research/03proceedings/03proceedingspdfs/section02.pdf

http://209.85.173.104/search?q=cach...ion02.pdf+Trunk-Aid&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=11&gl=us

Significance to the Nursery Industry: Results show that the Trunk-Aid® device can be used to straighten bent trees. In addition, it is labor efficient and cost effective. The Tree Trainer™, although ingenious, requires frequent attention to insure damage is not caused to the tree. It is not as cost effective as the Trunk-Aid®. The Tree Trainer™may best be utilized by homeowners in the landscape. Utilizing a product, such as the Trunk-Aid®, that consistently straightens bent trunks may increase the marketability of trees that otherwise would not be suitable for sale.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top