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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: San Diego
Posts: 473
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Planting trees: Should I fertalize them?
I've got a job where I'm replacing the trees with some 6' orleadonder trees. At first I thought just dig holes and drop them in. Then I thought I better be sure these things are taking off and living a long time.
These trees are very hardy as in they need little nutrition or water. Should I worry about any irrigation on them. I've heard from one guy that he thought they should be watered a little for the first two years. Do they need a dose of fertilizer too? I just want to be sure the guy is getting his money's worth. |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Victoria Australia
Posts: 393
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After care for new trees is always good but if they are the species below perhaps not "as lifted from a quick web search"
Oleander, an evergreen shrub with pretty flowers, is a particularly toxic plant. It can be a serious threat to small children who like to put things in their mouths. They are often drawn to Oleander because of its attractive bright flowers. All parts of the plant though contain poisons, and if any oleander is swallowed it can lead to problems like nausea, vomiting, extremely low blood pressure, heart problems, and in rare cases even death. For this reason, it's not a good idea to have oleander in gardens where small children play. you might want to get rid of the oleander and plant something else less hazardous
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"Your enemy is never a villain in his own eyes. Keep this in mind; it may offer a way to make him your friend." Robert Heinlein. |
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#3 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: N. IL
Posts: 317
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Quote:
Now, amending the soil with a good compost suited to your trees needs, should increase your success rate. Soak the trees and keep an eye on mother nature's rainfall for your zipcode. And, don't plant too deep. At grade or a little higher or you will be called back. Asking over in the Nursery Section of AS may give you more responses. http://arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=4 |
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#4 |
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Arborist
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: U.S.A.
Posts: 13,662
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I wouldn't fert the first year. Water is most important in getting trees established.
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/ Grow more vegetables! |
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#5 |
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Arboristsite MVP
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Virginia
Posts: 6,747
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Throw a fish in the bottom of the hole and be done.
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"Lose" rhymes with "booze". If you lose your saw, you don't know where it is. "Loose" rhymes with "goose". If you loose your saw, you untied it. I hope you didn't drop it out of a tree! "Then" is used to indicate time. "That was then, this is now." "Than" is used for comparisons. "Tom Hall is 2 years younger than I, but looks 15 years older." ![]() The apostrophe is used for contractions and the possessive form (Tom's 441 won't start.), NEVER for plurals. |
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#6 |
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Arboristsite MVP
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: The Nati, Oh Hi, Yo
Posts: 3,814
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A $30, 20 gal. Gatorbag watering bag takes all the guess work out of watering and protects your interests while it is putting roots out of the ball. Fertilizer is generally gonna contain some salts at least and this inhibits water uptake. Don't dig a $10. hole for a $200. tree either. Make sure it is at least a third wider than the ball/container and take the glaze off the hole and like said get the root flare just poking above grade. I like to ammend the backfill, some do not.
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be yourself, everybody else is already taken (friendo) |
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#7 |
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Arboristsite MVP
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: OK
Posts: 2,203
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fertilizer is a short-term fix. not a sustainable solution.
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"Environmentalists can no longer escape the fact that their policies of inaction have ended up denuding many forests by increasing the risk and severity of forest fires." - Prof. Robert H. Nelson It takes as long as it takes. "going to the woods is going home." I got a million miles to go on the limb and buck. |
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#8 |
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Above average climber
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: South Eastern WI
Posts: 13,100
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Some good info above, I'm in the "it depends" camp.
I like to plant a little high and amend the worked up soil around the ball pit. You do not have to make the pit as deep as the entire ball, just brake up the soil around it so it is easier for the new roots to infiltrate the new area. Since the ball is a tad higher then grade, use amended spoil dirt to taper the mound down. Ensure that the first order roots are exposed. A little fert in the amendment is not a bad thing, N helps stimulate roots, too much is will cause problems. As with anything H2O is the biggest limiting factor, after free O2 in the soil. This all said, any amendments placed in the bottom of the pit are wasted, since there is not enough root there to matter. Also the hydrology of disturbed soil requires that the top layer to saturate before water moves. Quite often there is anaerobic pooling in these areas.
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John Paul Sanborn Subcontracting Arborist - Consulting Arborist Southeastern Wisconsin ***** 414-379-0442 sanbornremovethisstrees@yahoo.com |
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#9 | |
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Arboristsite MVP
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: san diego, calif.
Posts: 1,568
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Quote:
Great post JPS, I would rep you if I knew how. Jeff
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#10 |
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Above average climber
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: South Eastern WI
Posts: 13,100
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click on this
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John Paul Sanborn Subcontracting Arborist - Consulting Arborist Southeastern Wisconsin ***** 414-379-0442 sanbornremovethisstrees@yahoo.com |
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#11 |
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Arboristsite MVP
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: san diego, calif.
Posts: 1,568
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: N. IL
Posts: 317
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Icon next to this one
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#13 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: San Diego
Posts: 473
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Quote:
Thanks, all. |
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#14 |
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Arboristsite MVP
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: san diego, calif.
Posts: 1,568
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Shouldn't you have a rep to rep?
Jeff I dont know
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#15 |
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Above average climber
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: South Eastern WI
Posts: 13,100
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Jeff has a rep as a troublemaker
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John Paul Sanborn Subcontracting Arborist - Consulting Arborist Southeastern Wisconsin ***** 414-379-0442 sanbornremovethisstrees@yahoo.com |
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