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Old 11-06-2009, 07:56 PM   #31
CHEVYTOWN13
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Started using a file-o-plate recently and the cutting is like night and day compared to my hand filing with only the file.

It takes longer, but the chain stays sharper longer too. It doesn't fade as fast as before.

Cool little pocket tool.
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Old 11-06-2009, 08:51 PM   #32
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So you have noticed a few opinions on this topic, eh?

Putting aside personal opinions, preferences, and beliefs, and looking at your original post, it sounds like you hand file, and want to periodically bring the chain back as close to factory specs as you can, considering the wear.

I would suggest you try either the Granberg File-N-Joint or Oregon 23736A Filing Guide. These sell for $30 - $40, clamp on your bar, and with the correct files, allow you to precisely duplicate factory angles on each cutter.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdet...5200&catID=131

http://www.oregonchain.com/pdf/acces...eningTools.pdf

You will not need to use these each time, but might want to use them occasionally to bring the cutters back to the original shape.

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Old 11-07-2009, 03:32 PM   #33
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Excellent thread right here. Too bad I still suck at hand sharpening my saw chains. Crooked cuts in the logs and the bar binds in the cut.
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Old 11-07-2009, 11:39 PM   #34
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Get a new bar ,and chain , when it stops cutting which won,t be long ... File one tooth really perfact and count your strokes with the file......................... Do every tooth like that first out ,,,,,,,,
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Old 11-08-2009, 03:06 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis_Peacock View Post
Excellent thread right here. Too bad I still suck at hand sharpening my saw chains. Crooked cuts in the logs and the bar binds in the cut.
Probably the hard side for you to file has all long cutters.... I suggest clamping you saw upside down in a vice, then find a wrench that slips over the smallest cutter on the chain.

Then start filing all the long cutters to that size. I use a dob of paint to mark any cutter, rather than hunt for the one doubled set of cutters.

When all the harder cutters are files to the same size using a wrench as a guide, simply flip the saw over, find the pain mark and file all these cutters, which will be less time, since they will be smaller.

Then flip the saw if any rakers must be filed, and when that set are done flip the saw for the last time and file the rest of the rakers.

I can't tell you if you rakers need to be filed or not, but a spec sheet should come with the saw and or a new chain, which tells that info.

You may need to dress the bar from time to time, which is easy. Place the bar alone in a vise and with a finger nail feel the wire edge here and there. Be careful that wire edge can cut you easy.

Because it can cut us easy I tend to file the wire edge off first holding the file at about 45 degrees, and lightly file that edge to be smooth.

When I can't be cut any more I flatten the rails, filing easy. A light pressue works to almost polish the wire edge and flatten the rails best for me.

Last edited by Mac_Muz; 11-08-2009 at 03:10 PM.
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Old 11-08-2009, 04:47 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis_Peacock View Post
Too bad I still suck at hand sharpening my saw chains.
We are all good at some things, and not as good with others. If sharpening is not your thing, keep a few extra chains with you and swap them out when needed. Then take them to someone (friend or shop) to sharpen. Maybe swap them something in exchange.

Or try one of the filing or grinding jigs, until you find something that works for you.

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Old 11-08-2009, 08:03 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis_Peacock View Post
Excellent thread right here. Too bad I still suck at hand sharpening my saw chains. Crooked cuts in the logs and the bar binds in the cut.
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Old 11-08-2009, 10:50 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Dennis_Peacock View Post
Excellent thread right here. Too bad I still suck at hand sharpening my saw chains. Crooked cuts in the logs and the bar binds in the cut.
Take a hard look at the bar if ya ain't joshin us.

I have some "Ugly chains" that have teeth all manner of length, and some missing, that are used for fencerows and stumps...and they don't bind in the cut unless I hit more wire.

Stay safe!
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Old 11-09-2009, 07:47 AM   #39
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Pee comes in handy when you forgot your corrosive ammo rifle cleaner, going ta' home, when going home isn't any option, or tanning that deer, when going home still isn't any option and neither is buying anything.

Before i was TAUGHT the trick to flip saws over many times my chains cut an arc, and would bind the bar in logs.

I knew why, but didn't know the cure.

Try it sometime and you will there after always flip the saw. If you prefer filing off the saw I guess you would set the chain the other way in a vise.

Not to sure that will work or not. It isn't what I do.
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:21 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by Mac_Muz View Post
Before i was TAUGHT the trick to flip saws over many times my chains cut an arc, and would bind the bar in logs. . . . . Try it sometime and you will there after always flip the saw. If you prefer filing off the saw I guess you would set the chain the other way in a vise.
Interesting idea. Still not the same as on-side filing, but does present the off-side cutter in a different way. Will have to try it.

Rep sent for sharing the idea!

Thanks.

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Old 11-09-2009, 05:18 PM   #41
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Interesting idea. Still not the same as on-side filing, but does present the off-side cutter in a different way. Will have to try it.

Rep sent for sharing the idea!

Thanks.

philbert
This is gonna be stupid, but what is "on side " filing mean? I fear it means on one side and then the other with the saw laying on a stump/bench.

Never did that..

In the woods where there is no vice i cut a slot in a stump/log and use that as a vise. This us harder as you need to lift the saw to move the chain.
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Old 11-09-2009, 06:32 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Mac_Muz View Post

In the woods where there is no vice i cut a slot in a stump/log and use that as a vise. This us harder as you need to lift the saw to move the chain.
I do that also, but I jam a scrench in along side the bar to wedge it in the stump and hold it still and elevated a bit.
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Old 11-09-2009, 08:30 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Mac_Muz View Post
This is gonna be stupid, but what is "on side " filing mean?

Some of us are better at filing right hand cutters, some are better at left hand cutters. I used the term 'on-side' to refer to the side that we are better at (whether right or left), and 'off-side' as the other side.

Kind of like trying to brush your teeth with the other hand.

Philbert
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Old 11-10-2009, 06:38 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by grandpatractor View Post
I do that also, but I jam a scrench in along side the bar to wedge it in the stump and hold it still and elevated a bit.
Good Idea!
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Old 11-10-2009, 06:53 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philbert View Post
Some of us are better at filing right hand cutters, some are better at left hand cutters. I used the term 'on-side' to refer to the side that we are better at (whether right or left), and 'off-side' as the other side.

Kind of like trying to brush your teeth with the other hand.

Philbert

I don't feel as stupid now

This method I mentioned is exactly for the off side cutters, and doing these first. I was born lefty, but forced on pain of death to be righty as a wee lad..

Part of that worked and part of it didn't, but I am not ambidexterous either.

So I file things as a right handed person would.

By flipping the saw upside down, which I can do in a stump, I file all the cutters that would be harder first. When tese are all nice, I flip the saw over and do the easy cutters last.

Doing this makes it easy to match the cutters on both sides of the chain, and eliminates the too long cutters on the 'off side'.

I am pretty good at filing things... I use files commonly almost every day, but not on saws all that much. Mostly other metals on other items.

I work part time for a machinist, and do most of his deburring. I also am into early American history as a re-enactor and make many items by hand , with hand tools, such as knives, parts of knives, Trade Silver, which is wearable money or it was once anyway, and about anything else made in metals from the past where filing things matters.

But this tip I was shown, has made a world of difference in my saw chain filing just the same. It allows me to use chains other guys don't want anymore, as I can match the long cutters to the short cutters quickly, and once a nearly ruined chain is filed right, it tends to stay right, untill I get into rocks

Last week I was using my land lords saw, at his request. It is a brand new Echo of some sort, and never used in years of time, and he wanted a few hours on it to sort of wake it up..

I was in pine slab wood, stacked by the Devil, and it had been in place for years worth of time, but I don't know how many.

Evidently during snow removal, rocks with snow was dumped on this stack, and I found one real fast Then I found 2 more almost as fast

Filing quickly ment some thing that day.
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