LogLifterII

This was the plan.


Now here is the realization (before making it pretty so you can see it warts and all) but with new log end clamp.

Unlike a Hi-Lift jack on its own it stands up by itself quite well.

The unit breaks up into 3 bits for easier transport.
The Jack with nose/lifter adapter attached
The outrigger or base - long blue and brown thingo
The log end clamp - blue and black thingo

Blue stuff is 1.2" SHS
Brown is 1.6" angle
Black stuff is rounded corner 1.2" SHS

Here a close up of one of the outrigger feet.

The outrigger does not need to be very strong. As long as it is big enough, very little side force is needed to hold the jack in a vertical position provided it loaded in a vertical position.

Here's the log hooks and top clamp.

The welding looks bit dodgy but I'm confident it will hold
The hooks can rotate and open wider to grab up a log end that is on the ground so no clearing under the log to get a grip on it. The hook ends are double gusseted 1/8" steel plate so should be very strong. The top clamp position is movable vertically and unless the hooks are spread this is about the closest grip that can be created without packing.

The hooks can also be moved relative to the jack for extra lift/height.

Log lifterII part 2

The black vertical post of the log clamp sits onto a fat square steel peg on the jack nose lifter adapter.

This positive engagement means the jack cannot slip out from under the log clamp. I also used square shanked bolt ends to reduce the need for two spanners when adjusting.

The top clamp uses a 3/4" bolt to grip the top of the log or cant. This is not really necessary but just adds a bit of insurance to the lifting process.

The position locking bolt is threaded direct into the back of the fat gusset.

I'm doing all this at home so this is the best demo I can do for now.
Will try and get to the yard in the next day or so for a better demo.


The biggest log this can tackle is ~36" and that is probably all the black SHS can handle.

If I think it is necessary I will get some stronger stuff and can make that piece a bit longer - I might also replace the hooks with solid bar. Once a log is over about 40" the best place to start milling that is on the ground.

danieltree said:

I thought you were camping. That is a nice set up did you just build it.​

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I was camping last week - I got back Saturday night.

I spent 3 hours on Sunday afternoon and 3 hours this evening making the log lifter. I had all of the steel on hand, the only things I had to buy were a couple of thin kerf cut off wheels and the bolts.

I estimate my DYI projects mean I'm working for about $5/hour but it's still way cheaper than therapy.

Wow!

I thought I was doing well by having my version drawn up.
BobL, you are fast.

I may have mine ready later this week.
Pictures will follow.

huskyhank said:

Wow!

I thought I was doing well by having my version drawn up.
BobL, you are fast.

I may have mine ready later this week.
Pictures will follow.

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Cheers HH. Things that speed up construction.

1) spend a long time thinking about how it all works first - By the time I get around to actual making I have the whole thing in my head from every angle without any or few written details. Leads to fewer mistakes etc

2) Old wood work table saw with thin kerf metal cut off wheel allows me to rip or cross cut metal up to about 1" thick accurately, very little grinding needed.

3) Keep a good stock of bits and pieces around plus remember what you have and where they all are.

FInally, leave SWMBO at the camping ground - so no disruptions, "Hey honey, can you just take a look at this . . . . . "

We need to see this bad boy in action!! You surely must have a 36" log around someplace..

Nice Bob!!!

What I see is so great about that is where you have a log that is in a area that you cant get any other means to hook up too to lift it!!! Why I love CSMing too...Can go to remote place and a little setup can mill without movin the log..... TY Bob....

Bob -
Excellent construction BUT
Do you plan on using this for just lifting or lifting and holding while you mill?

gemniii said:

Bob -
Excellent construction BUT
Do you plan on using this for just lifting or lifting and holding while you mill?

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Based on other things I've seen him post, he will lift and then set it on something before he cuts it.

Be kind of hard to get the mill on or off with that lift on the end of the log.

Bob, that has a striking resemblance to the jack on my 58 Zodiac. The Zodiac jack is a screw versus ratchet. I like it, Joe.

gr8scott72 said:

Based on other things I've seen him post, he will lift and then set it on something before he cuts it.

Be kind of hard to get the mill on or off with that lift on the end of the log.

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That's what I was thinking, and I was wondering why the ultra-stable looking base was needed to just "get er' up".

Cheers Guys.

RE: Do you plan on using this for just lifting or lifting and holding while you mill?
It's just to get the log up so that I can place something underneath. Once the log is off the ground I drag the jack out of the way


Two issues with the previous version were
1) needing to dig under the end of the log to get the jack under end and
2) general stability.

The most dangerous situation I found myself in was lifting a 30" log end on a slight side slope. Because of the slope I flattened a spot on the ground for the jack base. I then lifted the log end up ~ 15" above the ground (usually just leave it for a minute or 2 to see what it does but this time I didn't). From the upslope side I started rolling a 12" thick x 18" diameter cookie under the log when the jack started tipping downslope. Even though it only took about a second, by the time I got over to grab the jack it was leaning over by about 30º and there was no way I could hold it and the whole thing fell downslope.

Since then I stuck to the method of only lifting logs ~2" at a time and placing ~2 ft lengths of 2" thick boards underneath the log. When the log was say 12" above the ground I would then place a large 8-10" thick cookie under the log and lift and add the boards to the top of that. If the jack became unstable the most the log could drop is 2" - this method is safer but tedious which is why I went for the upgrade.

In the tree loppers yard where I do most of my milling, 90% of the time I used the loader with forks to lift logs but sometimes someone else is using it or I am elsewhere and this is where the new jack setup should be useful.

Very good idea, now I no why I saved my old high lift jack for. Good info and pics.

Beefie

As always top notch!!!

Cheers guys, I have painted it up and will hopefully try it out in the next day or so.

It reached 116F today but 3 hours later it was 75 F so cool enough for me to try out the new log lifter on an old jarrah log.




Worked fine!

Nice!

I love it. I can't wait to make one of those. I just need to buy a welder and and learn how to weld. Thanks for all the great pics Bob

That is slick. I need to find another hi lift jack and make one