Cutting edge with home made mini mill

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Nice - I really like it's simplicity.

One thing that bothers me a little is how close that chain is to the clamp bolt.
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I'd be allowing at least another 1/2" (12.5 mm) of space - or better still make a bar bolt mount version of the mill.

They look like very interesting saw horses you have there Neils, I wouldn't mind seeing a close up picture of those.
 
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This one is actually the prototype.

Here is a picture of the second one:



 
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Saw horses

The saw horses are not really saw horses they are made for proper work height when cutting down small dimensions conifers. I'll take some photos of them tomorrow and some day some photos of them in use for limbing.
 
Thanks for offering to post the pics of the "saw horses are not really saw horses"

I'm looking again at the design of the minimil and am thinking, wouldn't it be less prone to tipping outwards if the clamp was flush with the wood surface?

Something like this.
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Its actually quite well balanced. As you can see in the third picture the saw is standing on the mill as a foot. Its designed so its cutting very close to the footplate so you are able to follow a straight line drawn on a plank like a circular saw, just with a very much larger cutting depth.
 
Its actually quite well balanced. As you can see in the third picture the saw is standing on the mill as a foot. Its designed so its cutting very close to the footplate so you are able to follow a straight line drawn on a plank like a circular saw, just with a very much larger cutting depth.

Yep - I see it now. Well done! :clap:
 
So are you cutting with the top of the bar there? I've considered trying this to help with the "shower of sawdust" problem that vertical mills present, but thought it would be awkward and more work than it's worth because the chain would constantly be wanting to push the saw up and out of the cut rather than hold it in tight.

PS - I bet that Husky isn't happy at all wearing that Poulan Wild Thing purple!
 
So are you cutting with the top of the bar there? I've considered trying this to help with the "shower of sawdust" problem that vertical mills present, but thought it would be awkward and more work than it's worth because the chain would constantly be wanting to push the saw up and out of the cut rather than hold it in tight.!

This is probably because there are probably only two? cutters cutting wood at any one time in such a slab. It would be a different matter if you had a 24' wide cut with more cutters in the wood.
 
This is probably because there are probably only two? cutters cutting wood at any one time in such a slab. It would be a different matter if you had a 24' wide cut with more cutters in the wood.

I suppose that is true. I edge anything under 2.5" thick with the circular saw if I have access to electricity, so it never even crossed my mind.
 
This is probably because there are probably only two? cutters cutting wood at any one time in such a slab. It would be a different matter if you had a 24' wide cut with more cutters in the wood.

Good luck holding down the saw doing a thick vertical cut with the top of the bar, especially with a decent size saw. I've tried it with the 385xp, not a chance.
 
So are you cutting with the top of the bar there? I've considered trying this to help with the "shower of sawdust" problem that vertical mills present, but thought it would be awkward and more work than it's worth because the chain would constantly be wanting to push the saw up and out of the cut rather than hold it in tight.!

Thats why the saw is mounted in the "mini mill" in 45 degree angel. This gives a better grip and working position when cutting with the top of the bar.
The first version I made can only be mounted in this angel. The second one can be mounted in any (almost) angel so its much more versatile.
They can both be used cutting with either side of the bar.
 

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