Oil Pump upgrade, Part 1

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Lakeside53

Stihl Wrenching
Joined
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From time to time I see questions on how to take off a clutch, get to an oil pump etc, so here an example using the Stihl 066 that I upgraded last weekend to put out more oil.

If you don't have an 066, with minor variations this is pretty much same process for getting into the clutch side of 024, 026, 029/31/39, 034/036, 044/046 and 066, and the MS updates.

- Dump any remaining oil out the oil tank.
- Take off the top handle so you have better access.
- Remove the spark plug and make sure you have on hand either the recommended piston stop or a short length of rope.

This is what it will look like, a familiar picture to many of you... The red color is just resin from the alder I was milling. The blue color of the clutch drum was from the prior owner bogging the saw.... it will be inspected..

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Remove the cir-clip on the end of the crankshaft, unscrew the thin metal bar shield, remove the screws holding the plastic side cover in place. Pull off the plate, cover and the clutch drum. It may stick because of crud inside the drum, but it will come off.

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Rotate the clutch until the piston is near the top of the cylinder (to be sure the ports are covered), make sure the decompression valve is UP (or removed), insert about 6 inches of rope into cylinder though the plug hole. Rotate the clutch CLOCKWISE (left hand thread) until the piston stops by compressing the rope. Use a breaker bar with care.... the 066 has a TIGHTENING torque of 51.5 ft/lbs, and a breakaway torque typically around 75, but can be higher... On smaller saws, use a conventional ratchet. Unscrew the clutch clockwise and remove it. There is a washer beneath the pump - make sure you note the orientation for reassembly. Pull out the break band. PULL OUT THE ROPE - don't leave it in expecting to use it when you put the clutch back on - it will be the opposite rotation and your rope can fall into the transfer ports etc...

Missing picture - camera operator error; just your typical filthy packed oily gritty resinous mess...

Pull out the oil pump drive arm and worm, remove the oil pump screws (probe around in the muck..) and lift off the pump.

Here's what came out from around the pump:


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And then with the wave of my magic wand - actually a squirt of diluted Castrol super clean, and the garden hose, it's all clean. Some of you might consider the cleanup optional, but I don't. You can't see problems unless clean, and it's the last time you going back in for a few years, so just do it... It took me less then 10 minutes to clean and inspect all the parts.

Also, remove the tank oil hose (pulls out though the side), flush out the tank, pull the end off the hose and clean it all out.

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Check the brake-band for wear. If there is any question, replace it. Inspect the drum for wear inside and side and flare. Bigger saws that have had a lot of break-band closing with overheated drums tend to flare the drum sides which causes uneven wear on the clutch shoes and tends to push the brake band out wards when it operates. A blue clutch drum will often have overhead clutch shoes and weak springs. Dead easy to replace the springs (a buck or so each) with the clutch in a vice. Check the keepers and other clutch parts for wear or cracks. Mine : Clutch is in great condition. Drum is "blue" but not flared and only slightly worn on the inside. The bearing and drum fitted well, so it will be put back on.

Check the operation of the brake system, lube it (moly grease on the actuator, oil the other contact points liberally. If the springs are rusting due to salt or whatever, replace them.

Look around at everything else. Check the oil seal - it should LOOK good (no peeled up edges, dents etc.. Tighten the crankcase screws (dig deep).

Hmmm.... where is that top pump seal? damn! the small bright hole at the 2 o'clock piston from the crank is where THE B4X2 SEAL GOES, and now it's somewhere out on my driveway - garden hose does a great job, but collect all the small parts first...

There will be a 90 minute delay while I drive back to work, grab a new 80 cent seal, BS with the Saturday shift, and get back..grrr...



Continued in part 2... http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=409998#post409998
 
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Thanks for te detailed post Andy. My older 066 RL quite oiling this weeekend, so I'll be tearing mine apart shortly. I think I'll upgrade to the west coast plunger and screw.

Thanks
-Steve
 
CaseyForrest said:
Andy, didnt you do this a while back??

I swear your post about it is what prompted me to do my 460 and my old 066, and my new 660 too!!


Sorry, It is my fault it came back from the dead.

I DID A SEARCH, lol
 
very_nice detailed post!

I'll probably be doing this soon...
 
west coast plunger and screw?

Freakingstang said:
[SNIP...} I think I'll upgrade to the west coast plunger and screw.{...SNIP]

Thanks
-Steve

west coast plunger and screw?

Is this a different part or Just cleaning the pump?


Joseph
 
Joseph said:
west coast plunger and screw?

Is this a different part or Just cleaning the pump?


Joseph


They are parts to make the oil pump the High output version. It flows approximately 25-30% more oil than the US 066/660. I was wrong, it is the Austrailian plunger and screw.

Check out this thread for more details of the part numbers and whatnot

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=409998#post409998
 
Freakingstang said:
They are parts to make the oil pump the High output version. It flows approximately 25-30% more oil than the US 066/660. I was wrong, it is the Austrailian plunger and screw.

Check out this thread for more details of the part numbers and whatnot

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=409998#post409998


Are there High output version part / pumps for other models?

Joseph
 
MS460 - the magnum FULL WRAP come standard with HO pump. The other models can be upgraded. Use of a good quality bar oil goes a long way to correct chain lubrication - lots of prior threads on this topic.

Unless you are milling, I find most work well in standard form. Stihl chain will help - it has a special groove in the tang, and some versions have a hole in the tang. This carries the oil around the bar.
 
The 361 is conservative or stingy on oil, compared to some saws that do not have adjustable oilers, even in the max open position. However, there are two rough guides to look at. One: is it using a tank of oil when it uses a tank of fuel? Should be pretty close. And second, when held at WOT does the chain/bar tip leave an oil streak on a piece of wood nearby? If both of these are true, then all should be well. (It is true for both of my 361's). But like Andy, my saws are spick and span clean when I come in from the field, to include the holes and grooves in the bar, as well as the chain. I never take a dirty saw to the field.

Now there may be another factor in this issue; based upon my experience in the field with older, non adjustable oiler, saws. My older saws are all very very generous with oil; its visible on the chain, etc. This may lead us to expect the same from the newer saws with adjustable oilers??? To get that same appearance on the chain, for a 361, I think you will have to go for the 046 oiler upgrade that Andy talks about. But that does not mean the 361 is under oiled, just not as oily as some of the older saws. :(
 
Need p/n for aussie pump

Lakeside: I have a worn oil pump on my 066 that I use primarily for milling. I want to upgrade to the high output pump used in Australian saws that I have heard referenced here. Do you have part numbers for the replacement pump, or the individual pieces? My dealer won't have any idea what I'm talking about but if I have p/n's he'll probably get me what I need.

Thanks
Hal Minnigan
 
Lakeside: I have a worn oil pump on my 066 that I use primarily for milling. I want to upgrade to the high output pump used in Australian saws that I have heard referenced here. Do you have part numbers for the replacement pump, or the individual pieces? My dealer won't have any idea what I'm talking about but if I have p/n's he'll probably get me what I need.

Thanks
Hal Minnigan

1128 647 4802 New Control Bolt
1122 647 0602 New Piston

I don't remember what was how much but the total is right around $40.00.
 
Be careful with "worn"... what wears is the pump body...


HO oil pump - 1122 640 3201 - about $71
 
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Anyone know if the HO 460R pump parts stated in Lake's threads above will retro fit into a 044 Oil pump?
 
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