Oil pump upgrade - part 3 - button it up...

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Lakeside53

Stihl Wrenching
Joined
Dec 25, 2004
Messages
24,802
Reaction score
1,870
Location
Woodinville, WA
Back to part 1: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=31559
Back to part 2: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=409998#post409998

Just a quick assembly and we're done.

Insert the oil hose into to the tank taking care that the tab locks into the casting - if not, your hose will kink in the tank. Insert the B4x2 seal in the upper pump outlet.. UPDATE: wife walking dog yesterday - brings back a seal "is this the one you lost?" grrrr...

Insert pump into the casing and gently and evenly tighten the screws... Don't overtighten... use a torque wrench if you have one. These are only 4mm screws and easy to strip out.

attachment.php



Drop some oil into the pump around the crank and insert the worm/drive. Spin it clockwise - should stay in the pump and rotate freely. If it binds, figure out why - it will strip the worm if there is any binding.


Place the big washer on the crank exactly the same way it came off - flare down. If you put it on upside down, the clutch will jam. Spin on the clutch counter clockwise (left thread) until it bottoms. Rotate the engine counter-clockwise until the piston is just near the top, insert the rope again, torque to 51.5 ft/lbs... some cheaper (and some expensive) torque wrenches do NOT work for left hand threads. If you don't know, test it in the vice before trying to use it on the clutch.

IMPORTANT: use a thin screw driver and make sure the pump drive arm rotates after torquing the clutch. If it doesn't, you'll shear off the worm or drive arm.

Grease the sprocket bearing and insert on the crankshaft. Locate the pump drive arm and be sure it locks into the clutch drum notch when you insert the drum. If not, it can damage the pump housing.

Rim sprocket, washer and a the circlip - replace the circlip if you haven't for a while.


attachment.php


All that remains is to put back the plastic side cover and metal shield, screw in the plug, put the handle back on and off to cut wood.


So... does it pump more oil? definitely - about 25-30% more... is it enough for milling? better, but I still might need and aux oiler for the wide stuff.
 
Last edited:
Lakeside53, Thanks for the step by step. At least now if I take one of mine a part I have some idea what it should look like. :clap:
 
I just ordered the piston and control bolt the other day, I should have the parts by the end of this week. Do you really need to torque the clutch? All I normally do is hand tighten the clutch, start the saw up and start cutting.:)
 
Andyshine77 said:
I just ordered the piston and control bolt the other day, I should have the parts by the end of this week. Do you really need to torque the clutch? All I normally do is hand tighten the clutch, start the saw up and start cutting.:)


I assume you're kidding, but in case someone doesn't read it that way..

YES!!! you have to torque the clutch... sure the engine rotation tightens the clutch, but... I had an 051 clutch I didn't tighten enough. I rev that baby up and down fast and the engine thottles back faster than the big mass clutch and in a flash it was in a zillion parts all up my driveway. Great... but I did find them all by dragging a big bar magnet.
 
Last edited:
I'm no Stihl fan, but posts like this are awesome. Share the knowledge and promote hands on. You should get some kinda special award by the mods!

Dan
 
you mean like this one? - I just added to an existing thread..

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=33528


Maybe in the winter between decent snowfalls I can find the time...

What do you guys all want step-by-step on? Maybe someone else can do some too if we knew what you all wanted... I could do one on changing out cranks/ bearings, but...
 
Clutches I Have Known and Lost, or "Grenade!"

Lakeside53 said:
I assume you're kidding, but in case someone doesn't read it that way..

YES!!! you have to torque the clutch... sure the engine rotation tightens the clutch, but... I had an 051 clutch I didn't tighten enough. I rev that baby up and down fast and the engine thottles back faster than the big mass clutch and in a flash it was in a zillion parts all up my driveway. Great... but I did find them all by dragging a big bar magnet.

This topic would make a good thread. I have tallked with several guys who have had their clutches fly off their saws one time or another. Usually in a spectacular manner. I lost one on a little poulan top handle one night. Found the rim sprocket across the street only because I heard it smack the neighbor's garage door. Never did find the center portion or the shoes. The Stihl dealer I respect in Cincinnati (DeWar Equipment Co.) has a hole in the ceiling over a work bench from one. Anyone else lose one?
 
lesorubcheek said:
I'm no Stihl fan, but posts like this are awesome. Share the knowledge and promote hands on. You should get some kinda special award by the mods!

Dan


A free T shirt would be nice :hmm3grin2orange:
 
Lakeside53 said:
you mean like this one? - I just added to an existing thread..

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=33528


Maybe in the winter between decent snowfalls I can find the time...

What do you guys all want step-by-step on? Maybe someone else can do some too if we knew what you all wanted... I could do one on changing out cranks/ bearings, but...

Andy you could do crank swap ,cylinder changes, anything that you would like..
 
I'm a new member and performing this upgrade myself and I was wondering where it was that you got the parts. Do you have a website address or anything?:help:
 
I assume you're kidding, but in case someone doesn't read it that way..

YES!!! you have to torque the clutch... sure the engine rotation tightens the clutch, but... I had an 051 clutch I didn't tighten enough. I rev that baby up and down fast and the engine thottles back faster than the big mass clutch and in a flash it was in a zillion parts all up my driveway. Great... but I did find them all by dragging a big bar magnet.

I was working on a landscape crew years ago, I saw a guy start a bed edger. Ya know the thingy with the 12" blade out front. He was walking up the street with it when the blade de-nutted. That sucka bounced up the street twirling upright for at least 100' feet. luckily nobody got hit with it but I'll tell you there were people close. Sorry, Lake, don't mean to derail this excellent thread. I can't believe you aren't on the payroll yet. :laugh:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top