Operation Johny red 2152c with NE346XP top end

Ok guys after reading all the great info here, I picked up a NE346XP OEM Piston and Cyl. Here are the pics. I dont seem to have a decomp valve hole on the new Cyl??? Here's the story on the J red 2152C I bought it burnt up, I cleaned it up as best i could put a new piston in and it runs, Seems like it lacked power and TQ. I know the Cyl had a scratch still in it that was to deep to clean up. So i asked some questions on here and I was told to get a NE346XP kit for it. That it would bolt right on and would make this saw fly!! I am planing on doing the transplant this weekend any tips or things i should/could do as it will be apart??? The saw already has a Shotgun Muffler Mod. the Epa caps are cut off.

Not sure whay the last pic is so small

Nice.

Does the Husky NE346XP have a decomp valve? my OEM kit does not

JeffandJess4806 said:

Does the Husky NE346XP have a decomp valve? my OEM kit does not

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The NE346XP saws sure have it - this makes me suspect that you got the old 45cc version.

Have you measured the bore?

Spike60 is needed here!!!! :blob4: :blob4:

Your cylinder part # should be 5441 429 03 or 04 with dec valve.Piston is 5441 431 02.The OLDER 346 is 42 mm bore.

HiOctane said:

Your cylinder part # should be 5441 429 03 or 04 with dec valve.Piston is 5441 431 02.The OLDER 346 is 42 mm bore.

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The ones I have been ordering, ending in 03 do not have the deco, but they are indeed the new larger size. I haven't ordered the 04 one yet but that may contain the deco. I think the non-deco aspect explains why the price is cheaper than the 350/353 cylinder. Not sure of the price on the 04 number.

spike60 said:

The ones I have been ordering, ending in 03 do not have the deco, but they are indeed the new larger size. I haven't ordered the 04 one yet but that may contain the deco. I think the non-deco aspect explains why the price is cheaper than the 350/353 cylinder. Not sure of the price on the 04 number.

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That's cool - issue solved!!

No point in having the deco anyway!

This is the part number i got 5441429-03

I have a question: Are these pistons w/pin and ring the same weight?

j/c how standardized factory crankshaft balance is between similar engines.

Kansas said:

I have a question: Are these pistons w/pin and ring the same weight?

j/c how standardized factory crankshaft balance is between similar engines.

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i dont know myself, I was going with what Spike and saw troll were telling me ,what would work and make it run good. I had another post about my 2152 and i was told the Ne346XP would be the way to go for a rebuild.

If i dont use a base gasket, I will check for clearance first. if it clears what kind of gains will i see without the base gasket? I have a bottle of the from a gasket from loc tite

Don't remove the gasket unless you are willing to do some work to the ports. You would need to widen them and raise the exhaust port up and the intske down the thickness of the gasket to get the port timing back to stock. You need .018-.020 clearance between the piston and head. Gains depend it would give it quite a bit more. A mufflermod is a must if you port.

JeffandJess4806 said:

i dont know myself, I was going with what Spike and saw troll were telling me ,what would work and make it run good. I had another post about my 2152 and i was told the Ne346XP would be the way to go for a rebuild.

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Jeff this JMO take it or leave it. I dabble in HP engine work and I wouldnt assemble it unless both complete pistons were exactly the same or else it wont live, any good machine shop can do what is needed. FWTW

huskydave said:

Don't remove the gasket unless you are willing to do some work to the ports. You would need to widen them and raise the exhaust port up and the intske down the thickness of the gasket to get the port timing back to stock. You need .018-.020 clearance between the piston and head. Gains depend it would give it quite a bit more. A mufflermod is a must if you port.

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I have a saw running .016" squish with no problems.

Also, he does not need to lower the intake port the thickness of the gasket to get the port timing back...he will have already increased duration by removing the base gasket, lowering it more would further increase duration.

Josh

I am going to use the base gasket. I am new at this stuff so i dont want to mess the saw up as i just spent the money to get the new top end. I got the saw real cheap but it was burn up

sounds like you have got the perfict saw to start with for a mod job not a lot of money in to it so not as much to lose if something goes really wrong, all the info and pics you need are right here. good luck with what ever you decide!!!

So the 2152 carb is the same carb as the 346?

HUSKYMAN said:

So the 2152 carb is the same carb as the 346?

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Yes, but they have changed trough the years........

If you take you're time and do it right, there is no chance of screwing up the cylinder with no base gasket!!
Bolt it all together and use solder to check the squish. .018-.022 is great!!!
DO NOT USE the form-a-gasket!! Use Loc-tite anerobic sealant!!!! It's cheap and you can get it at O'Riells I know!!! If you need the number I can get it!