Husky 394XP Bar Stud replacement

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aquan8tor

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One of the studs on my 394XP is stripped at the base, and needs to be replaced. I've used a double-bolt setup backing up one into the other to get tension on it to back it out. Unfortunately that isn't working here. Anybody know how to get the damn thing out? I'm feeling dumb here. Also, are they the same for different models of their bigger saws?? All I seem to be able to find is replacements for 372/385, etc. Any help would be appreciated.
 
If they are the same as a 372, here is a tip. Before you push the old one out, wrap a thin wire around it. Wrap the other end of the wire around the other bar stud. That way, when you take it out the oil fill hole, unwrap the wire and wrap it around the new one you can use the wire to thread it back through the hole.
 
Let me caveat this with the IF it is constructed like a 372, it would be impossible to spin the stud. It would snap before it spun.
 
AZLOGGER's Procedure For R&R Husqvarna Bar Studs.

1. Remove oil reservoir cap.
2. Drain all oil out of reservoir.
3. Secure a piece of small thin wire to the threads of old bar stud. Just like formersawrep said.
4. Strike damaged stud on threaded end with hammer, popping it into empty
oil reservoir.
5. Extract damaged stud from reservoir by means of a magnet or long nosed
hemostat.
6. Remove small thin wire from damaged stud.
7. Paint or scribe a vertical line on new stud corresponding to
narrowest part of rectangular head of new stud.

8. Secure small thin wire to threaded end of new bar stud.
9. Pull end of wire from outside of bar stud hole in case (gently).
10. When threaded end of stud protrudes enough thru hole, against shoulder of bar stud, remove wire.
11. Make sure line on new stud is completly vertical to case prior to pulling stud into place, if not correct, rectangular head will not fit into rectangular cavity inside saw case.
12. Check inside case with flashlight to determine if bar stud is installed correctly into rectangular cavity. IF ALL IS CORRECT CONTINUE.
13. Install bar and chain.
14. Install oil reservoir cap, fill with bar oil, & go cut some wood.

Steps in blue are helpful hints!
 
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Does that mean he stripped the case out on by double nutting and spinning it?

Definitely didn't strip anything on the case. The nuts spun without much resistance, really. I'm glad to know they have rectangular heads!!! Its much easier than I thought, really. Plus it'll give me a good excuse to take out the oil intake strainer & clean it. Thanks folks.
 
Bumping this old thread with a new question.

Bought a pawnshop 394 last night and it had a bolt shoved in front bar stud hole.

Pulled that out and then found the original stud in the oil tank.

Fished it out and then just used the magnet to guide the stud back through the case hole but now the stud does not fit snug.


What would be a quick easy fix to secure the stud tight enough to keep it from spinning when tightening bar nuts down?


ie, locktite, permaseal, or some other sealant.??????

thanks, ric
 
Got a 84 model Poulan 3400, I take from this thread that I can remove and re-install my bar studs through the oil tank!?! Further more, many of the parts for my 30 tear old saw are out of production, so, any recommendations on new studs, (the good ones)? And on a perfect fit or close match for the assembly drum and sprocket? Just about anything else on the saw can be home fashioned if need be. Using this old thread as it hits closest to home for the issues at hand, thanks. Old news is good news when it can grow into better news...
 

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