036 project

Got this saw for free and had planned on installing a new P/C. I just got the bottom back from my local dealer who installed new seals for me, only $15 labor after bringing him a real clean stripped saw.

Turns out I was sold two 034 cylinders not two non-pro 036 cylinders, arrgghhh! I did not bother to check diameter when they were shipped a few months ago.......live and learn.

Anyway I did hydrochloric acid cleaning and some 150 and 400 wet/dry and a real terrible looking cylinder (forgot the before pics but have a look at the piston) looks a lot better now. I just want some opinions on the marks I could not remove, you can see them but cannot feel them. I'm sure it is not aluminum as have hit them a couple more times with acid after finger honing.

What say ye? Put a OEM piston/rings in it? (I do have two of the correct ones)

Think there will be any longevity issues?


I'll post some more pics as it comes together.

Your cylinder looks really good,especially considering the damage to the piston.Leaking crank seals really leaned her out,although the piston rings still look like they were good before being trapped by the smear.New piston and rings and probably good as new.

I did not do a leak down before I pulled it apart so not sure it was crank seals. I replaced them as it cheap insurance ($15 labor, $15 gasket/seal set ). It will get a new impulse and fuel lines too.

The exhaust port had a good layer of carbon and if you look at the picture a few pieces have broken loose. They might have gotten wedged between the cylinder/piston and contributed to the damage.

I didn't post a picture, but the intake side of the piston looks nearly new, rings are not stuck and can still see the factory machine marks.

Like i mentioned before,the rings are still showing good "spring",if that's really an accurate description,they weren't worn out.They were just trapped in their groove by the "smear".The piston took a beating,either from low or no lube,bad gas or running too lean from a mis-adjusted carb or an air leak somewhere.Crank seals are usually the prime suspect for an air leak,so I think you're on top of this one and ready to button it back up.

to me that looks like theres still aluminum transfer right around the exhaust port

Evan said:

to me that looks like theres still aluminum transfer right around the exhaust port

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Acid (6M HCl) won't touch it. I hit that a few more times (1/2 hours worth) today with 320/400 grit wet sand/dish detergent, rinse, more acid.

Seems to be slight depressions in the nikasil. Does not look like aluminum if you get in close with a 10X magnifying glass, more like cleaned out pockets of the scoring. It is not through the nikasil though. Cannot feel it with your fingers/fingernails. They are below the port so I'm thinking it's not so bad to leave as be

I'm afraid of going back to 150/220 grit to get them out as might go through the liner?

Just leave them. You might make them look better with more grinding, but it will work worse. All you'd be doing is making the bore oval.

Looks real good. It's amazing how bad a piston can score and still be able to save the cylinder. Unfortunately, that's not always the case.

Lakeside53 said:

Just leave them. You might make them look better with more grinding, but it will work worse. All you'd be doing is making the bore oval.

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That is what I was thinking. I checked where the "spots" are vs where the lower ring travels to, the ring should stay about 2 mm above them.

blsnelling said:

Looks real good. It's amazing how bad a piston can score and still be able to save the cylinder. Unfortunately, that's not always the case.

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Thanks to all for your comments/suggestions.

I'm going to get it back together today. Everything is all cleaned up and ready to go. New OEM piston, rings, pin, clips and upper bearing. Switching over the the updated clutch assy with the bigger bearing.

Only thing I'm not looking forward too is the joy of installing a new oil pump line.........

Oil pump line was a breeze.

Used a caliper to measure and a razor to make the cut. As Andy/Lakeside mentioned, twice as much line as you need in the kit, plus some to do another.

Heating the line is good, too much will melt it. Can put it in from outlet or inlet side first. Don't forget the wire coil and all you need is a bic lighter, razor blade, and needle nose pliers.

Start the tubing a bit, before you heat it,then let it slide on when warmed, pushed with the pliers.

Thanks guys it was a breeze!

Bring us up to date on the rest of the build,how about the piston etc.What do you have left to do.

HimWill said:

Bring us up to date on the rest of the build,how about the piston etc.What do you have left to do.

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Will do do, have pics of oil pump line install but not detailed (I had to take the pics too).

Will show piston install w/homemade tools..etc.

I'd hit her lightly with the ball hone and put her back together.

Mad Professor said:

Oil pump line was a breeze.

Used a caliper to measure and a razor to make the cut. As Andy/Lakeside mentioned, twice as much line as you need in the kit, plus some to do another.

Heating the line is good, too much will melt it. Can put it in from outlet or inlet side first. Don't forget the wire coil and all you need is a bic lighter, razor blade, and needle nose pliers.

Start the tubing a bit, before you heat it,then let it slide on when warmed, pushed with the pliers.

Thanks guys it was a breeze!

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Update, here are some pictures. Have all the pictures of the rest of the rebuild too. Will post those soon, on dialup at home........

Now have a nice 036 with brand new 20" ES bar and RSC chain. Total cost w/bar/chain was less than $200. Got to love those freebee stihl saws.....

With a clean stripped saw, my local dealer, put the seals in for $15

The oil pump line installed and all the parts ready to go.

Case ready for piston.

I use a nail head to seat the circlips. Put 1st clip on off the saw. Don't forget the base gasket. Protect bottom end with some clean towels.

Piston holder and cyl install. Holder made of 1" scrap red oak, old toothbrush with handle sharpened is great for working rings into groove I start near the pin and work my way around.


More to come......

Mad Professor said:

With a clean stripped saw, my local dealer, put the seals in for $15

The oil pump line installed and all the parts ready to go.

Case ready for piston.

I use a nail head to seat the circlips. Put 1st clip on off the saw. Don't forget the base gasket. Protect bottom end with some clean towels.

Piston holder and cyl install. Holder made of 1" scrap red oak, old toothbrush with handle sharpened is great for working rings into groove I start near the pin and work my way around.


More to come......

Click to expand...

With both rings past the base of the cyl I install the bolts ( Never seized first) and a piece string around the intake boot ( rayon, 2 turns , scrap from girlfriends knitting project,,,,,,)

Lower cyl as you pull the boot through tank housing, yank one end of string to remove it. Bolt cyl down, plug intake/exhaust to keep bugs out.

More to come......

Very nice. Keep the pics coming. I dont usually take time to take pics, and maybe I should. Just completely rebuilt an 026 Pro including bearings, and I didnt take pics...

Bowtie said:

Very nice. Keep the pics coming. I dont usually take time to take pics, and maybe I should. Just completely rebuilt an 026 Pro including bearings, and I didnt take pics...

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Same here, I wish I had had, a good digital camera, when I did my 038S---> mag conversions.

Well, still one more 038S and it needs a crank too............

P.S. I hope this is permitted, if not administrator delete it.

If you are close to Bennigton VT, Mr. Bratcher of stihl and husky fame will treat you right. Thanks Billy!!!

What gives? No dust to fall in the crankcase? My stuff is never that clean.