Big feller
ArboristSite Operative
I'll check the 056 manual at work tomorrow, but 5mm CYLINDER screw are normally 10nm, and 6mm is 12-14.
The figures I gave in my earlier post came straight from the 056 manual.
I'll check the 056 manual at work tomorrow, but 5mm CYLINDER screw are normally 10nm, and 6mm is 12-14.
The figures I gave in my earlier post came straight from the 056 manual.
guess there must be something british about 056 head bolts maybe...(although it's a toss up whether i'm british or aussie).
Big Feller, what's a Wiha system 6 bit? Also, what is the torque for these bolts?
The hideously expensive hex key has arrived. One thing you can say about snap-on: delivery is damn quick. With this, I can use my 3/8 torque wrench to get it right:
Now, the purists amongst you might wonder why I didn't bother to clean the cylinder before taking it off. That is because this one belongs in the bin - here's a shot of the piston:
I think that the previous owner ran it without a filter for a while. There is a whole load of damage to the ports, and the intake side of the piston is scuffed to hell. It has "eaten" about half an inch of ring too - there is impact damage to the top of the piston, so it looks like it spat it out. The crankcase looks very clean. Dan - this is the 070 we were discussing just after Christmas.
I seem to remember the head bolts needing a 5mm key. I use a Wiha system 6 bit held in a deep 6mm socket to attach a torque wrench. Grinding the top off a long hex key would do the same job.
Toss up - tells me yr an Aussie Harry - from that side of the black stump.
You know what, when I decided to take it apart to relube (after decided mix wasn't enough before I ran it) with oil, I found I hadn't put one of those clips in properly. Bloody glad I decided to relube!Thats the fourth piston I've seen lately where the ring stop pin is broken off
or pin thrown out. WHY IS IT SO ?
Lake's gonna love this - I just used the t-handle, tightened it up how I felt was right. Been working hard and hasn't missed a beat so far...Same here, I took an old 5mm t-handle hex wrench and cut the handle off, stuck it in a 5mm socket, used silicone to hold the hex in the socket, works great.
That may have been a bolt limitation.
I'd be putting in 6mm Torx and cranking them down the same as an 066 - 15m, or 11 ft/lbs!
Rather than getting an expensive torque wrench for one job why not use a spring balance on the end of a bar of known length. Don't want to be seen to be teaching granny to suck eggs but 10lb/ft would be 10lb on the balance at 1ft distance or 20lb at 6in and so on. Just make sure the balance is at right angles to the bar and that it can't slip (hole,notch,hook etc) Calibration is easy because you can always check weigh something of known weight.Food manufacturers aren't known for giving stuff away.I will admit to using a torque wrench most of the time especially my 1/2" Britool which I trust. I also have a cheap 3/8" one which never seems right at the lower end of it's scale which is when the spring balance comes out. If however you're earning a living at it get a torque wrench from a name you can trust.
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