056 jug hex socket size

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My torque wrench is a Snap-on Techwrench - it goes as low as 5ft pounds, and they claim 3% accuracy at this level. I'm not sure I believe that, but even 10% is close enough. I got it off a friend who was getting out of the car business - they are stupid money new.

The new cylinder/piston will be an aftermarket - it will upset Lake (sorry!), but the last one I fitted to an 070 was pretty good, I really couldn't find fault with the thing. These saws will be used hard, but not very often. I will take them milling where they will get hammered for 2 days solid, then put in the garage for a few months. On that basis, I think the aftermarket will probably hold up fine - I really can't justify spending £200 on a piston/jug combo. If I was using them daily, then I would probably stump up for the Mahle. We'll see - I promise to post pics if they blow up! I get them from a bloke called flexpit68 on German ebay, I think they are actually Golf items.

On the cylinder screws, they are M6, and they have a 5 mm hex socket - so the figure of 9.8 Nm is not far from 10! :)
 
The hideously expensive hex key has arrived. One thing you can say about snap-on: delivery is damn quick. With this, I can use my 3/8 torque wrench to get it right:

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Now, the purists amongst you might wonder why I didn't bother to clean the cylinder before taking it off. That is because this one belongs in the bin - here's a shot of the piston:

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I think that the previous owner ran it without a filter for a while. There is a whole load of damage to the ports, and the intake side of the piston is scuffed to hell. It has "eaten" about half an inch of ring too - there is impact damage to the top of the piston, so it looks like it spat it out. The crankcase looks very clean. Dan - this is the 070 we were discussing just after Christmas.

Thats the fourth piston I've seen lately where the ring stop pin is broken off
or pin thrown out. WHY IS IT SO ?
 
I seem to remember the head bolts needing a 5mm key. I use a Wiha system 6 bit held in a deep 6mm socket to attach a torque wrench. Grinding the top off a long hex key would do the same job.

Same here, I took an old 5mm t-handle hex wrench and cut the handle off, stuck it in a 5mm socket, used silicone to hold the hex in the socket, works great.
 
Toss up - tells me yr an Aussie Harry - from that side of the black stump.

alright then - I'm true blue! Well, defo half anyway, spent most of my time in UK, but go back whenever I can... Which is mid year this time for a couple of months. Need to get the old 'cruiser back on the road

Thats the fourth piston I've seen lately where the ring stop pin is broken off
or pin thrown out. WHY IS IT SO ?
You know what, when I decided to take it apart to relube (after decided mix wasn't enough before I ran it) with oil, I found I hadn't put one of those clips in properly. Bloody glad I decided to relube!

Same here, I took an old 5mm t-handle hex wrench and cut the handle off, stuck it in a 5mm socket, used silicone to hold the hex in the socket, works great.
Lake's gonna love this - I just used the t-handle, tightened it up how I felt was right. Been working hard and hasn't missed a beat so far...
 
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That may have been a bolt limitation.

I'd be putting in 6mm Torx and cranking them down the same as an 066 - 15m, or 11 ft/lbs!

wouldnt the torque for these fastners be more dependent on the aluminum/mag housing their threaded into? the steel would have a much higher strength than the housing material and id expect the construction of the housing around the thread to partially determine the permissible torque, this could to be different for each saw, couldnt it?
 
Rather than getting an expensive torque wrench for one job why not use a spring balance on the end of a bar of known length. Don't want to be seen to be teaching granny to suck eggs but 10lb/ft would be 10lb on the balance at 1ft distance or 20lb at 6in and so on. Just make sure the balance is at right angles to the bar and that it can't slip (hole,notch,hook etc) Calibration is easy because you can always check weigh something of known weight.Food manufacturers aren't known for giving stuff away.I will admit to using a torque wrench most of the time especially my 1/2" Britool which I trust. I also have a cheap 3/8" one which never seems right at the lower end of it's scale which is when the spring balance comes out. If however you're earning a living at it get a torque wrench from a name you can trust.
 
Rather than getting an expensive torque wrench for one job why not use a spring balance on the end of a bar of known length. Don't want to be seen to be teaching granny to suck eggs but 10lb/ft would be 10lb on the balance at 1ft distance or 20lb at 6in and so on. Just make sure the balance is at right angles to the bar and that it can't slip (hole,notch,hook etc) Calibration is easy because you can always check weigh something of known weight.Food manufacturers aren't known for giving stuff away.I will admit to using a torque wrench most of the time especially my 1/2" Britool which I trust. I also have a cheap 3/8" one which never seems right at the lower end of it's scale which is when the spring balance comes out. If however you're earning a living at it get a torque wrench from a name you can trust.

this is a good method and is tried and true for calibration of your wrenches by instrumentation companies.

at work we are also urged to unload the torque wrench mechnism to avoid stressing the mechanism and throwing of the calibration.

another item to use for weight would be bolts/nuts of the same size, these items would typically have a small variance in their normal mass, known volumes of fresh water are also very good to use.
 
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