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Fred3456

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I have a wonderful Elm in a perfect location that has an 18" diameter and am wondering how best to protect it from dutch elm disease. There are no other elms within a 100 yrds.
 
There are a lot of members here that know a lot more about this, but I think the 100 yards helps a lot as DED can be transmitted via the roots.

Other then feeding and watering your tree, as basic health has to help.

Edit: Welcome to the site!
 
On DED

Don't prune in the summer months when the elm beetle is in its flying stage. Monitor for "flagging" (leaves in the upper canopy turning yellow. if you see this in fall don't worry thats when the leaves are supposed to change color!)

If you do see flagging in the summer months prune out the affected areas, and sanitize your saws with lysol between every cut.

You can protect the tree with mauget injections (abasol). I would only do this if other elms in the area are being affected by DED
 
Last edited:
Good advice so far. Find an arborist who can feed the tree for you using a soil injected liquid fertilizer. Cambistat (growth regulator) makes claims of reducing stress on elms also.
 
If the tree is doing well now, I see no need to fertilize or use cambistat.
Dutch Elm Disease (DED) is in every county of Iowa, so it is in your best interest to protect high value trees with chemical injections.
Mauget injections were mentioned and they are not my first choice. The problem with micro-injections is the chemical is injected at full concentration and in very small amounts. There can be significant burning at the injections sites, and the lower trunk of a tree is a bad place for pockets of decay. Distribution through the tree is not as complete with micro-injections as they are when macro-injections are used.
With macro-injections, the same amount of chemical is used, but it is diluted in about 30 gallons of water and injected directly into the roots with a small pump. There is little or no burning, and because of the amount of solution, coverage is far better. Also important is injecting into the roots, where wound compartmentalization is much better.
There is another method of getting the chemical into the tree, called a gravity feed system. This dilutes the chemical in about two gallons of water and uses tubes, and tees drilled into the root flare just like macro-injection. The system is hung on the tree several feet above the tees and the solution is feed to the roots by gravity, very much like an I.V. you might get at the hospital. Transpirational pull takes it up the tree. The gravity feed system is good, but not as good as the macro-injection, mainly because of the smaller amount of solution.
 
Thanks for all the great advise!

I guess that I now need to find a qualified local expert to help with the treatment. Any advice on how best ot accomplish this task?
 
Local Yellow Pages under tree care and find companies who do plant health care. Interview several of them. You are ahead of the game because you already have a good idea of what should be done and what you want done. Don't give the interviewees any indication that you know anything, let them tell you every thing they know. Make sure the work to be done is by a Certified Professional Arborist (to me this is the most important thing, often the salesman or owner is certified but the actual work is done by an employee of unknown skill/education).

Please post your results here, I'd love to see the kind of answers you get:D
 
OTG BOSTON said:
If you do see flagging in the summer months prune out the affected areas, and sanitize your saws with lysol between every cut.

This is trickier than just cutting out the flagging limbs. You also need to peel the bark back to find the brown staining of the cambium. You then trace the stain down until it ends. The end of the stain does not indicate the end of the disease, that's as much as 8 feet below that point, so you need to go that far down and cut. In many cases, that 8 feet is too low to leave enough tree to save.
 

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