So I was at wally world( Walmart). Looking to by some oil for my saws and found a question for all you saw buffs. They offer a cheap synthetic oil that claims it covers all fuel ratios. Is this right? Come on?! Really! If it's true, I'm Game! Also I've been buying the canned fuel and mixing it to get rid of the ethanol. Walmart was charging $15 per gallon and now on clearance it's $5. I only fix and repair saws. So buying that for cutting down trees would be nuts.
Another 2 stroke oil post!
- Thread starter Brian Van
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$5 bucks is cheap bu the time you buy etho free gas and oil, you are almost at $5.
Steve Sidwell, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk
Steve Sidwell, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk
happysaws
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You get what you pay for. Even for $5 I would mix it myself, just for peace of mind that I KNOW what's in it.
Just sayn'.
Just sayn'.
Little Al
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Does the container have a Jaso or Edg rating? if it does & comply' s to FB,FC, or FD, it should be good for 50/1 or any mix south of that If it has no rating I would if I used it keep to 32/1 mix I would tend if I didn't know who the blender was stick to a rated oil
Make sure it's not outboard motor oil TC-W3, your saw will be very unhappy running(dying) on this.
This time of year all the boat motor oil will be getting clearanced
If you're buying "canned fuel" why are you mixing it?
Can't ethanol free "canned fuel" be purchased pre-mixed 32:1, 40:1 or 50:1 and ready to go??
I buy individual, pre-measured "dose" of oil and just combine with enough gas to hit the ratio I need. I usually go 40:1 and add a dash of Marvel oil or Lukas as stabilizer.
This time of year all the boat motor oil will be getting clearanced
If you're buying "canned fuel" why are you mixing it?
Can't ethanol free "canned fuel" be purchased pre-mixed 32:1, 40:1 or 50:1 and ready to go??
Easy, just combine different amounts of gas/oil and violas, different ratios...
I buy individual, pre-measured "dose" of oil and just combine with enough gas to hit the ratio I need. I usually go 40:1 and add a dash of Marvel oil or Lukas as stabilizer.
I am sure that you could run most 2 stroke engines at 100/1 or less so what. Your engine might not live quite as long as some one who uses a ratio 32/1. The whole point is at what ever ration you use it is your call. I have raced and professionally built motors for 50 years and found that yes oil does make a difference. A combination of ratio and the type of oil is important. If you want to run any engine as long as possible then you will want to be sure that the engine under all conditions will have good lubrication. Under heavy loads at higher temperatures the fuel for most part evaporates leaving only a small residue of oil in the engine. That oil if it is enough will will have enough mass to help all parts of the engine stay uniform lubricated and cool enough to live another day. Synthetic oils often have higher temperatures characteristics that will allow a leaner ratio then petro based oils. Does that mean that petro based oils are not good, no. To really take advantage of synthetic oil you would need to run your engine at 400F which is too high for most purposes so one does not not have a huge advantage over another. A reasonable ratio with a high quality oil will give years of trouble free service. Thanks
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You can buy E-Free gas in cans that aren't a pre-mix. The only ratios I've seen when it comes to canned pre-mix are 50:1 and 40:1.
Never really had much trouble with pump gas . One summer we got hit with the bow echo every saw I used the diaphragm went bad . After using Startron never had any more trouble . Never had a problem with winter gas
nothing like a oil thread....
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Now that's an answer! Lol. So I should still run the recommended ratio, synthetic or not. OK. That's good to know. I'll use the broad ratio oil for working on saws and the good synthetic at it's normal ratio for my own saw. Less cans of fuel hanging around.
Little Al
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You have your own method re fuel but my way would be to use the same mix in all the saws; for me it would be 32/1 FD rated oil & E free gas you could run it to 40/1 for customers stuff if they like 50/1 modern oil be it mineral Semi synth or 100% synth will do the job with out problems carb setting is much more important than a difference between 40 or 50/1oil ratio
One more oil thread and I may just have to go back to using SAE-30.
Nothing like a good protective layer of carbon throughout and fogging for mosquitoes all the while.
Mmmm the aroma of days gone by.
But why? I'm not so much of an oil aficionado that I'd forgo the convenience of pre-mix just so I can err trying to adjust oil ratios on such a small quantity of gas. It would be insane trying to mix up a batch of 32oz gas, perhaps 1-gallon or more at a time but small size batches = big mixing error. I just have this crazy image of somebody trying to mix gas in their saw 1-tank at a time wondering so, how many droplets of cap fulls of oil do I put in??? Maybe get a calibrated syringe... I don't think so. I'm just not going to play around with anything smaller than 2-gallons at a time just because.
Nothing like a good protective layer of carbon throughout and fogging for mosquitoes all the while.
Mmmm the aroma of days gone by.
But why? I'm not so much of an oil aficionado that I'd forgo the convenience of pre-mix just so I can err trying to adjust oil ratios on such a small quantity of gas. It would be insane trying to mix up a batch of 32oz gas, perhaps 1-gallon or more at a time but small size batches = big mixing error. I just have this crazy image of somebody trying to mix gas in their saw 1-tank at a time wondering so, how many droplets of cap fulls of oil do I put in??? Maybe get a calibrated syringe... I don't think so. I'm just not going to play around with anything smaller than 2-gallons at a time just because.
I just don't think it's necessary to have a can of mixed gas for every ratio. If a oil says it can cover all the ranges of ratios, let's try it. 16 to 1 probably better be 16 to 1. Not sure why something would run that ratio but OK!
Little Al
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I can understand the Hype but not the reason a low on the pecking order of mechanical complexity chainsaw "Quote " if you use our brand X oil in your Brand X saw you should mix at 50 or whatever to1 but if you use any non brand X oil you have to mix at 25/1 2, points the non brand X oil you are using is probably equal to or superior to Brand X & 2 how the heck would a innate lump of metal know the quantity of oil being passed through it ( other than none) a reasonable ratio & correct tune is the important factor not the brand of oil
What does a JASO (Japanese Automotive Standards Organization) rating have to do with mixing any particular oil for use in chainsaws? Looking around it seems JASO rated oils are crankcase/clutch oils for use in motorcycles. Does high detergency mean anything to a mix oil? Blendzall has no JASO rating but it has been used in 2-cycle engines for decades successfully. Stihl HP Ultra is JASO FB and Woodland Pro synthetic is JASO FC/FD.
Regardless of your brand preference or mix ratio preference what are the FACTS regarding JASO ratings for mix oil?
Regardless of your brand preference or mix ratio preference what are the FACTS regarding JASO ratings for mix oil?
Little Al
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The rating of Jaso means the different letters confirm the oil meets a certain standard There are blended oils that as you say have no rating ( Maybe small company's that cannot afford the price of the rating test $75 000 some years back,) We use a company's oil that has no rating but we know the guys & what goes in the oil so it's no problem The Jaso rating is a pointer to the fact that the particular oil from that company/blender conforms to meet the requisite standard of the lettering What rating you choose is up to you but if brand X & brand Y are both rated FC Or FD they both are of very similar quality Jaso could well be for oil other than Premix 2 Smoke but most of the 2 Smoke oils have a Jaso rating Oil With FB,FC, or FD, is top quality whatever the brand as an example Motul 710 & 800 contain the same blend but the 800 has an extra ingredient to keep the power valve free on 2 Smoke bikes so really not needed on saws ,some of the oils are more suited to liquid/water cooled motors If you read the tech specs of most oils for 2smoke motors there will be a rating of F something on most oils offered, & you will more often than not find oil marketed by the blender is superior to the chainsaw brand oils as this is tendered out & in most cases is blended to a cost re Stihls FB rating,does the job but not the be all to end all .If you search there is better to be had. FC or FD rated is usually the top end of the quality market The use of detergents is a modern trend one if not the best lubricating oil is the Oid Castor bean oil (Castrol R )& the likes but folk got fed up with its dirty running/deposits & the EPA put clampers on the smoke issue hence the modern goo
