bar tuning/bar shop?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

hammerlogging

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
May 16, 2007
Messages
1,593
Reaction score
428
Location
WNC
As has been well discussed, cut a lot, bars wear out.

I now have a few Cannon Superbars that the rails are spread out and won't cut any more, not to mention all the Oregons. After seeing these beautiful bar shops, what is the real possibility to get a bar back into form that is worth the effort and $? In the woods and caught by surprise, I have gently pounded each side with my axe on a stump, this will last a few hours with an Oregon, a few days with a Cannon, but not long term. Same effects with the bar rail closers- a short term fix only.

But is their a real fix? Can I send them off to a "bar shop"? How's it work?
 
Nate C. (Metals406) has a barshop, but more importantly, has a real feel for metal and its properties. I bet he'd like to get some use out of the thing. Maybe he'd even film what it can do so we can see how much we're getting ripped off by the current lack of proper saw shops!
 
would like to have one .
attachment.php
attachment.php
attachment.php
i've done what you have done. have some bars that could use the treatment.
 
Joe, there's a local shop here that does an excellent job on rails. Just like new. PM or call me if you want to ship some bars out and have a batch done.


Take care - Sam
 
I'll add a few to the pile. I knew a guy out in OR who got a simington swingarm, bar shop, and 2 big saws from a retired cutter all for less than 1000$ must be nice haha.
 
Treeslayer

Look for someone in your area who can tune a circle saw with a hammer. Give them some harvester bars and be amazed. There is a local here that really knows how to use a hammer and he has straightened some of the most pretzeled bars you can imagine.

I do some myself on the anvil with a short handled eight lb. A 30 ton press or some similar size is also a good way.

I think the guy charges 10 bucks a bar 15 if he changes the tip.
 
Seems like a big hunk of metal with some specific high frequency running through it to straighten things back to normal might work. That's just a theory though.
 
Treeslayer

Look for someone in your area who can tune a circle saw with a hammer. Give them some harvester bars and be amazed. There is a local here that really knows how to use a hammer and he has straightened some of the most pretzeled bars you can imagine.

I do some myself on the anvil with a short handled eight lb. A 30 ton press or some similar size is also a good way.

I think the guy charges 10 bucks a bar 15 if he changes the tip.

i'll have to ask around then, bend a few gets spensive. I seem to do better pounding um better than a press. a slight twist is what I can't get right again. you runnin 404 on yer rig? I saw a bell with 3/4 but that must turn hard.
 
i'll have to ask around then, bend a few gets spensive. I seem to do better pounding um better than a press. a slight twist is what I can't get right again. you runnin 404 on yer rig? I saw a bell with 3/4 but that must turn hard.

Yes I use 80 cm 404 pitch. You almost need a press to get a twist out. I've been able to hammer the twist out of a couple, but I'm not a wizard with metal and they end up being real flexible when I'm done. This guy I send my bent ones to hammers them straight as an arrow, closes the rails and dresses everything square. For ten bucks a piece. At 94 bucks a bar, he has saved us a lot of money.

On another note, it is impossible (nearly) to hammer a 3/4 pitch bar. A large press is the only good way that I know of.
 
Yes I use 80 cm 404 pitch. You almost need a press to get a twist out. I've been able to hammer the twist out of a couple, but I'm not a wizard with metal and they end up being real flexible when I'm done. This guy I send my bent ones to hammers them straight as an arrow, closes the rails and dresses everything square. For ten bucks a piece. At 94 bucks a bar, he has saved us a lot of money.

On another note, it is impossible (nearly) to hammer a 3/4 pitch bar. A large press is the only good way that I know of.

Get a bigger hammer, and a real anvil, then moving metal is easy...

Never had much of a problem with the rails moving on me... not sure why... I have bent a few back to straight after they got squirshed or hit with an axe, put they stay put. If your having a problem with them constantly moving on ya could it be the bar is a POS or that you've just plain wore the damn thing out.

For bars with twist you just need a well secured vice (or a slot in a stump) and a custom pry tool, like a peice of 1"x2" aluminium with an appropriate sized slot on one end and around 4' long...

bars are a little on the springy side but not so bad...
 
I have taken a twist out with your method northman. The only difference is I used a worn out chainsaw bar as a lever. The husky slot is almost perfect. Problem is the bar being straight end bends the other way under the load. And please make a video of hammering a 3/4 pitch buncher bar true.
 
I have taken a twist out with your method northman. The only difference is I used a worn out chainsaw bar as a lever. The husky slot is almost perfect. Problem is the bar being straight end bends the other way under the load. And please make a video of hammering a 3/4 pitch buncher bar true.

I didn't understand what you are saying, but I am thinking you are meaning the slot in the back of the bar you are slipping over the other bar?
 
patience is a big part of moving metal... bend until the pressure evens out then just a bit more, if you go to far bend it back the other way...

I don't run a harvester but if someone has a mangled one I would give it a go. May not be perfectly true but it might make a straight cut at the end of the day.
 
I once accidently closed the rails too far on a 58 gauge 32" powermatch. I ran three loops of 50 gauge on it until the teeth were tearing off and it still hadn't opened up enough to run a new 58 gauge chain on er. It will run a wore one though. I've had hit and miss luck with the bar rail closers. It seems every bar is different.
 
I take bars with spread out rails and put them in my bench vise. Squeeze the #### out of em from mount to tip until the chain is tight. If I overdo it, a screwdriver will fix that problem. Unfurtunately, this metal is thin and fatigued, and the repair won't last. I'll do it a few times, then look for something on clearance on bailey's
 

Latest posts

Back
Top