Beams with a reg. alaskan style mill

[slabmaster]

Wow! That's a nice looking bridge.Thanks for posting that pic.and info.

 

[irishcountry]

Wow that is beautiful! I can't imagine the amount of work that went into that awesome. Timberframing rules!!! thanks for the pics and links irishcountry

 

[redoak]

cutting beams

Hi Irish. I'm a relative newbie to milling, but have gotten some great results with my Alaskan 36". I've got to figure out how to shrink the file size on some pics, but here's a decription of the process.

First, to box the heart properly you need to set the rail plane parallel to the heart. I have my logs on a crib (a couple other logs) so they are supported in two places. This makes it real easy to cut the bottom out first. For an 8x8 I set the depth to cut 4" below the heart and slice the bottom out. Then set depth to 8", roll the log over, and cut out the parallel. To get the 90 degree cut I use a framming level and stand the log up plumb, dog it in place, then set the rails level (on both ends!) and viola, nice and sqaure! Again, cut the bottom out 4" below the heart, re set mill to 8", roll the log, and with one more pass you've got a nice 8x8.

I'm building a 20'x20' high post timber framed barn. Just cut the first of five 20' 8x8 tie beams and plates. Same technique. If I can figure out how to shrink the pictures I've got some neat ones to show off.

Good luck Irish.

-redoak

 

[Brmorgan]

Hi Irish. I'm a relative newbie to milling, but have gotten some great results with my Alaskan 36". I've got to figure out how to shrink the file size on some pics, but here's a decription of the process.

First, to box the heart properly you need to set the rail plane parallel to the heart. I have my logs on a crib (a couple other logs) so they are supported in two places. This makes it real easy to cut the bottom out first. For an 8x8 I set the depth to cut 4" below the heart and slice the bottom out. Then set depth to 8", roll the log over, and cut out the parallel. To get the 90 degree cut I use a framming level and stand the log up plumb, dog it in place, then set the rails level (on both ends!) and viola, nice and sqaure! Again, cut the bottom out 4" below the heart, re set mill to 8", roll the log, and with one more pass you've got a nice 8x8.

I'm building a 20'x20' high post timber framed barn. Just cut the first of five 20' 8x8 tie beams and plates. Same technique. If I can figure out how to shrink the pictures I've got some neat ones to show off.

Good luck Irish.

-redoak

I've started out the same way as you, making the two parallel cuts, but to make the 3rd square cut I prefer to use a framing square rather than a level because sometimes the log is not so big, and it's hard to make sure that the cut sides are perfectly plumb when it's turned 90 degrees. With a square you can be off-plumb a few degrees and it won't matter, as long as the guide board is square to the sides that are already cut. I don't use this system so much anymore though, the mini-mill is much faster to make the 3rd cut with than having to re-attach and tweak a guide board.

As for shrinking pictures, do you mean the resolution (print size) of the picture, or the filesize? I've found that lowering the resolution to 800 X 600 will almost always get in under the 300KB filesize limit anyway. If you're using Windows, you can do that in Windows Paint (start --> accessories --> Paint, then go to Resize/Skew on the Image menu at the top) but I don't think you can set JPEG quality options to change the filesize. I use a program called ACDSee to deal with all my photos, it's a super fast image organizer and has a lot of basic editing tools too. If you're using a Mac dizzy then you're on your own though. But I'm sure there's a program included that can do it - I'd hope so for the exorbitant price of the things.

 

[irishcountry]

Hey thanks alot for the technique I will have to give it a try didn't think about making the bottom cut first!! Hope to see some pics and its nice to hear someone is building something with CSM beams that is what I would like to do down the road. Again thanks for all the info. irishcountry

 

[Brmorgan]

Yep, bottom first is the easiest way to make it a perfect heart center since the mill's depth adjustment is indexed to the top of the chain kerf, not the bottom. If you try top cut first, you need to know exactly how wide your kerf will be, and adjust the depth settings to compensate. I still maintain, though, that if you're going to be making a substantial amount of beams, or for that matter anything with 2 sides at 90 degrees, the extra $100 or less for the Mini-Mill is worth every penny and will pay for itself in time savings in just a couple days' work squaring cants. The other advantage of the mini-mill is that I could theoretically split and quarter a 5-foot diameter log with my 090 w/33" bar if I was careful about lining up both cuts. I don't know how badly the buried bar tip would wander, and chip clearing might be an issue, but it COULD be done.

I did just think of one caveat though: I am sort-of assuming having two milling saws. I have the 090, 395, and 660 to choose from, so I'll usually throw either of the two former ones on the Alaskan, and mount my homebrew mini-mill to the 066. So I guess if you are limited to one saw, it might be even slower to unmount the saw from one mill and mount to the other, and back again.

 

[irishcountry]

I want a mini-mill BAD!! I think its going to be on my Christmas list I can see how handy one would be especially if you interested in making any qty. of beams!! Thanks again guys

 

[slabmaster]

I think i will strap my 394 on this when i make those beams,so i won't have to turn the log as much.It should save me alot of measuring also.

 

[redoak]

I bought a "beam machine" last week... seems a lot like the mini-mill. Looking forward to trying it out. Seems like it could really save time and create a more accurate 90 degree cut. I'm planning to mount a 18" bar and chain to it and just switch the 660 power head. Shouldn't be too much of a p in the a. I assume once you make the 90 you go back to the Alaskan to get a nice parallel 4th cut?

Thanks for the advice about pictures. I'll give it a try!

-redoak

 

[slabmaster]

That's the way i plan to do it.Top cut with the alaskan than two side cuts with mini mill then bottom cut with the alaskan so i don't have to roll the log at all.Alot easyier on the back as i'm making large beams. I'll be using my 395 on the alaskan and 394 on the mini mill.