Broken chain bar bolt needs fixing

[roncville]

I managed to break one of the two studs that hold the chain bar, on my Husqvarna 36 chainsaw. I'm not sure why it happened, but one day I found the nut loose. When I tightened the nut, it never fully tightened, and the outer inch or so of the stud eventually sheared off.

So, I need to replace that stud. The local shop said to put a vice grip on it and it should turn and come out. I tried that, but it didn't budge.

Is the guy right? I can try harder, perhaps by double nutting it and using a wrench with a long arm. That would hold onto the stud better, and also would give me better leverage.

But, in case the guy isn't right, I don't want to keep trying that approach for fear of breaking something. Is there possibly something on the hidden end of the stud that I can't see, and that is keeping the stud from turning?

Thanks,
Ron

 

[HarleyT]

They probably come from inside the tank, remove the oil cap and look.

 

[HarleyT]

You would need to drive the bolt into the tank, and install the new one from inside the tank.

 

[kevin j]

Buy the new bolt and see what the end looks like. Or check the IPL for view. Might give a clue.
Might have to heat to break loctite if it is threaded in.

 

[HarleyT]

 

[roncville]

Thanks for your replies. I drained the oil tank, gave the bolt shank a few light taps with a hammer, and it popped right into the oil tank. Putting a new one in might take a bit of dexterity in tight quarters, but it looks manageable. I'm glad I didn't take the guidance from our local shop guy more seriously.

Ron

 

[LoveStihlQuality]

What Harley said. If you do shop recommendation, break case. Stihl would work that way. Friend's Craftsman /Poulan 3800 said broken stud. Ordered from Sears, package was Husqvarna. Bolts have a square back that seats in square pocket inside case in oil tank. I shined flashlight (bore scope) in through stud hole and used spring claw parts grabber through oil hole to navigate bolt through stud hole, pita. Once successful, fiddle and turn stud to be sure seated. I smeared locktite around bolt and case. After I ordered 2 bolts, I found unbroken bolt inside tank. Had got pushed in. If I can find, I'll send you one. I got a repair manual from guys on Beg for Manuals thread. Ed

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[roncville]

Thanks LoveStihlQuality. But, I've already got the bolt on order ($3), so I'm set.
Ron

 

[LoveStihlQuality]

10-4. Glad you didn't try torquing it out. Let us know how it goes. Ed

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[ANewSawyer]

Run a wire through the hole and out the oil tank hole. Attach wire to the bar stud and pull through The flexible grabber might work too.

 

[burnses]

you should be able to get the threaded and part of the shoulder in the hole from inside the tank with some effort and dexterity....to seat it use a short socket or cut a small or a larger nut with a washer and pull the stud through by threading a nut on it. Just make sure its indexed right so it seats in the flats inside the tank. A magnet that fits through the hole can get the toop of the stud to line it up.....good luck. Good thing you couldn't turn it with the vice grip!

 

[LoveStihlQuality]

Run a wire through the hole and out the oil tank hole. Attach wire to the bar stud and pull through The flexible grabber might work too.

Dang, where were you when I was cussing first 10 tries[emoji3]

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[Marshy]

I've read many people using a mechanics magnet with a swivel head to get the bolt into the hole. GL

 

[Westboastfaller]

I don't carry a magnic on the hill but I usually have dental floss or flagging tape I can tie on or Teflon I've used before. I have been know to run the one front one only alot on my 372's Its quick and Its impossible to loose the only one from vibrations.
The down side to doing that is after about 80 days of that the stud with fall into the tank and once that happens it will continue to after that without the nut. Anyway I don't to it as long anymore.
OK ... find a twig and go all the way through from the stud hole and exit out the oil cap. Tie the thread/floss/ topo thread (hip chain thread) ect
around the bottom of the bolt thread and to the stick you just poked through. Then pull your stick back through. Many have a rectangular head so you may have to make sure its not 90° out. They are pressed so you have to put the bar on without the cover (with 372 anyway) then bottom the nut to the bar on that one stud then use the bar as a lever to pull it up a bit more then put it back with cover and finish pulling it up now that the nut will go one it. If the hight is the same then its good.

 

[Johnnybar]

Clean oil from stud area with straight gas or whatever you prefer that doesn't eat paint. Quick set epoxy the stud in place and lightly snug it up to cure for a few hrs. Should stay put unless you whack it with the bar too hard.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Thanks for your replies. I drained the oil tank, gave the bolt shank a few light taps with a hammer, and it popped right into the oil tank. Putting a new one in might take a bit of dexterity in tight quarters, but it looks manageable. I'm glad I didn't take the guidance from our local shop guy more seriously.

Ron

Many studs do thread out, so he wasn't exactly wrong. I just put a new one on a 460 this morning actually.

 

[ANewSawyer]

Dang, where were you when I was cussing first 10 tries[emoji3]

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I believe I got that method out of the Pouan 3700 Service Manual.