Chain Sharpening

[Woodie W.]

What is the best way to sharpen a chain? dremel or file? I sharpen with a dremel usually and it gets dull quick . even if I stay out of the dirt Is there a technique to this? Any thoughts.

Echo cs440
Echo cs 520
Jensrud 2045 turbo
homelite xl-15 ( junk)

 

[computeruser]

Stick with the files. The Dremel, even used properly, is a less-than-ideal method. A proper bench grinder would be fine if you feel like dropping $$$$, but if you have the patience to learn hand-filing then you'll be set with a time-proven and effective way of putting a keen edge on the cutters.

Dremels have their purposes. Sharpening chainsaws is not one of them.

 

[SawTroll]

Stick with the files. The Dremel, even used properly, is a less-than-ideal method. A proper bench grinder would be fine if you feel like dropping $$$$, but if you have the patience to learn hand-filing then you'll be set with a time-proven and effective way of putting a keen edge on the cutters.

Dremels have their purposes. Sharpening chainsaws is not one of them.

CU is right as usual, go with the files....

...and it is Jonsered, not Jensrud........

 

[Woodie W.]

Thanks!

Appreciate advise- thanks- Yea I know its Jonsered. I just don't use that saw enough. I like the Ech'o's. 20 inch bar does a lot.



Echo CS 440, CS-520
Jonsered CS 2045 turbo
Homelite XL-15 ( junk)
22 ton splitter to boot

 

[ASEMASTER]

file for shur

and buy a box of them so you have a sharpe file for a sharp chain. Ive even been known to hone mine with a buck round diamond steel.

 

[alderman]

You might try changing the angle

It seems that if you go with less angle the edge will last longer, but not be quite as sharp initially. It's a trade off, but if you're looking for an edge that will last longer try 25 or 30 degrees.

 

[Engineeringnerd]

I hand file when I have to in the woods, but much prefer a grinder when I can. Usually I take along several sharp chains and change them in the field.

Chains may last a little longer with hand filing, but my personal experience is the edge is better and more accurate with a grinder. I know others think differently, but I never have pulling to one side and my bars seem to wear much more evenly now that I grind.

I have not used the newer manual files with auto depth filing and angle control and hear they are good. I just can't imagine going back to manual after learning the magic of electricity. Thanks Ben Franklin!

 

[Wismer]

I use a dremel type rotary tool and it works like magic.

Quick, easy and sharp

 

[ddhlakebound]

I hand file when I have to in the woods, but much prefer a grinder when I can. Usually I take along several sharp chains and change them in the field.

Chains may last a little longer with hand filing, but my personal experience is the edge is better and more accurate with a grinder. I know others think differently, but I never have pulling to one side and my bars seem to wear much more evenly now that I grind.

I have not used the newer manual files with auto depth filing and angle control and hear they are good. I just can't imagine going back to manual after learning the magic of electricity. Thanks Ben Franklin!

Thats exactly how we sharpen too.....I'm not horrible at hand filing, but I'd much rather put on a fresh chain, and go back to work.

When our old grinder's motor gave up, we got an Oregon industrial grinder, and it does a great job. It came with all 3 grinding wheels, and they're only 6-8 bucks to replace. I did eat a lot of cutter tooth the first few times I used it, but once I got used to it, it's fast, accurate, easy, and produces consistently sharp chains. It should though, for 300 bucks. Gotta do a lot of sharpening to justify buying it.

Sharpening with a new file is nice, but for me it doesn't take long before I feel like the file is dull enough to be worthless. How many sharpenings do you guys get from a new file?

 

[SmokinDodge]

Sharpening with a new file is nice, but for me it doesn't take long before I feel like the file is dull enough to be worthless. How many sharpenings do you guys get from a new file?

It depends on the brand of file and brand of chain. You can just about forget about trying to sharpen a Stihl chain with an Oregon file.

A Stihl file will just about make it half way through a Stihl chain for me, of course your mileage may vary. And it's kind of hard to gauge, one file gets used on more than one chain at a time.

 

[bkvanbek]

So what do I need?

I have an Echo CS-520 and am switching to Oregon 20LPX078G chains. 3/16, right? I will not be buying any expensive grinder.

So it is files, if so what guide to get?

Or the Dremel tool kit?

 

[excess650]

I have an Echo CS-520 and am switching to Oregon 20LPX078G chains. 3/16, right? I will not be buying any expensive grinder.

So it is files, if so what guide to get?

Or the Dremel tool kit?

3/16" is probably correct for a .325 chain. The smallish 91 series 3/8 chain takes 4mm or 5/32, and 3/8 takes 13/64 or 7/32.

As for a guide, the Oregon bar clamp-on is the least costly followed by Granberg and then Stihl. These work well, but are a little slow to use.

I have a grinder and Oregon clamp-on guide, but now prefer to file freehand.

 

[excess650]

Appreciate advise- thanks- Yea I know its Jonsered. I just don't use that saw enough. I like the Ech'o's. 20 inch bar does a lot.



Be careful of what you say or else be blackflagged! LOL! Echos dont get much respect around here.

 

[bkvanbek]

so I got a couple 20lpx078g chains, bought a dozen 3/16" files. They looked a little big, so I check Oregon's website and it confirmed a 3/16" file.

But when I Google "20lpx078g" two retailers say a 5/16" file.

What is the right file size?

 

[ericjeeper]

it for sure is not a 5/16

3/16 is correct.. heck 5/16 is a rat tail file.. That monster would not fit between the raker and the tooth let alone make it cut.
The tooth would have no hook whatsoever.

 

[bkvanbek]

Sorry, I meant 5/32". The retailers said 5/32".

So does the 20LPX078G chain use 3/16" or 5/32" file?

 

[flatpikr]

Bench grinder and a Dremel.

I lower my rakers with a dremel -- round wheel stone. I sharpen the cutters with a bench grinder. Started with the el cheapo Harbor Fr. model and did just fine. Just upgraded to the Northern version. Definitely nicer. I work at eye-level with magnifiers and lots of light. I very very gently, but quickly, bring the metal back to bright, shiney, and sharp. 25 years of files was enough for me. Some people complain that too much metal is removed with a bench grinder. Not if you are very careful and can see exactly what you are doing. I can actually watch the dull rounder edge disappear. Amazing how we entertain ourselves when the backcountry is snowed in.

 

[CentaurG2]

Get yourself a Stihl or Oregon file guide and the proper files for your chain. The Stihl web site has a good video as to the proper use of a file guide. If you puddle around long enough on the Stihl site you will find it under tips and how to videos. Start with a fresh chain and lube your files with cutting oil or Kriol. If you sharpen your chain every time you refuel or whenever it is just starting to cut poorly, one or two pushes per tooth is all that is needed and a file should last a full chain. With practice, you should be able to sharpen a chain in less time than it takes to gas and oil the saw. If you really rock out a chain, use the dremel to remove the damage and touch up with the file. Trying to repair a chain that has hit steel or rocks with a file takes too long and really dulls the file.

 

[Signoflife]

so I got a couple 20lpx078g chains, bought a dozen 3/16" files. They looked a little big, so I check Oregon's website and it confirmed a 3/16" file.

But when I Google "20lpx078g" two retailers say a 5/16" file.

What is the right file size?

I would trust the manufacturer's info,

http://www.oregonchain.com/pdf/chain/20lpx.pdf

...as well make sure you have the proper file guide and don't drag it in the back stroke, besides being the proper way to file, the file itself will last much longer.