Clutch removal Homelite 410

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was looking for the same advice earlier.....May have to double check, but the backing plate should screw off(Left hand threads!!). I have used the rope in the cylinder trick a few times with great sucess. If no one will answer you question on a post, you can always try the "search" tab at the top of the screen. Sometimes it takes a bit of looking, but you can usually find an answer
 
Can you post a pic of the clutch assembly? It probably calls for a special three or four lugged tool to engage the carrier, but one can usually be manufactured with a little imagination and some simple tools.
 
The proper tool is the two pin puller but in a pinch a hammer and punch works.

Bill
 
You can try this;

If your HML uses the clutch with the two small holes showing and you dont have a pin wrench, you can try a set of drill bits. You can then use an old Briggs flywheel puller slid down over the bits to hold them. Then turn the puller with a crescent wrench. These style clutches are on some of the older Poulans too. The sprocket sits between the clutch and the case like any other outboard clutch, but on these the clutch shoes are facing inward.

I would use a knotted rope as a piston stop because it has more flex than a single post stop. Take your time and first remove the muffler so you can see the exhaust port. Thread three or four inches of clothesline with a few half hitches in it down thru the plug hole. Familiarize yourself with the port timing by turning the engine over in your hands before you start. The idea is to prevent the piston from reaching TDC which then allows you to unthread the clutch. Watch the piston move so as to catch the upward compression stroke with your piston stop. Make sure the rope doesnt slide out through the exhaust port and your good to go.

Reverse threads loosen while turning clockwise.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Best wishes,
Bob
 
Thanks for the responses and ideas.

I made a spanner wrench to hold the flywheel and made a tool to remove the clutch. I took a 1 1/4" pipe and cut slots at 120 degrees to match the lobes that the clutch shoes slip over. I welded a 1/2 bolt to a piece if steel and welded that to the other end of pipe so that I can torque to specifications when I replace everything.
 
Thanks for the responses and ideas.

I made a spanner wrench to hold the flywheel and made a tool to remove the clutch. I took a 1 1/4" pipe and cut slots at 120 degrees to match the lobes that the clutch shoes slip over. I welded a 1/2 bolt to a piece if steel and welded that to the other end of pipe so that I can torque to specifications when I replace everything.

If you have the means......please post a pic of that tool. We like pix.:clap:
 
Let's see if these photos come through.

Yup.

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Nice work.:clap: Gotta get me a welder..............
 
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