Creosote buildup in CB 5036

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tm84p

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I have been running my OWB for about 3-4 weeks and I have noticed inside the firebox there is getting be a pretty good build up of a black tar-like substance with flakes of it falling off. At first i thought it might be just the paint curing or something but I am guessing now it is probably a buildup of creosote. I am heating a 2200 sq ft house that is poorly insulated. Since I only got setup with this in October I only have about 1 cord of seasoned wood and the rest is unseasoned oak, cherry, fir, and white pine. It hasn't been too cold yet so most of the day the fire is just smoldering. The question I have is first of all is it a creosote buildup and second is it something I need to worry about? When it gets colder and the fires get hotter will that buildup just burn off? Is there anything I can do about it, is it dangerous or will it mke much of difference in the long run? Any opinions or suggestions are wlcome. Tks in advance

PS I will try to upload pics of it when i get back home
 
Welcome to the site, and welcome to the world of burning wood in a CB! Yes, the creosote builds up fast. My 5036 has a bunch, but right now with moderate temps. and light loading, the long off cycle/smoldering causes it to build up fast. during colder weather, with longer burn times, some of it will come off. Follow the directions for periodic cleaning and you will be ok...could be worse...imagine all of that creosote in a conventinal chimney lighting off!
 
The creosote is part of the wood burning process. To combat this I went and bought a wooden handled scraper. When there is enough build up I scrape the walls and ceiling inside the firebox. Be careful doing this as so you don't get the creosote on your arms or hands, wear gloves and a long sleeved shirt or jacket to avoid burns.
 
I've got a garden hoe that I scrape it down with, but it really doesn't matter. During a good hot burn in the middle of winter, you'll get rid of most of it. Especially with dry wood. It tends to flake off and drop in the fire eventually.
 
I've heard people say to just let the water temp get really low and then burn out the creosote with a bunch of cardboard.

Is this good advise or not?

I've got alot of creosore build up myself.
 
That will do the job, sort of. What you're doing is allowing the fire to maintain a continuous burn for a long period of time. The problem is that with the low water temperature, the creosote will still continue to 'condense' on the walls of the firebox. What seems to work for me is, dump in a lot of good dry pine or softwood when the water temperature is as high as it will go (say, 30 minutes after a burn cycle). Let the wood sit and 'bake' for a few hours, and then just before the boiler reaches the set temperature, open the door and leave it open. They warn you NOT to do this. However, I find that it creates this rolling inferno that cooks all the creosote off the walls and ceiling of the firebox, and tends to also boil out of the firebox and simultaneously create an impressive chimney fire. It's fun to watch, especially late at night and from a distance. :jawdrop:


If the set temp is low enough, you can let the fire burn for a while and it will not steam off the water. I tend to load my firebox at the peak temp in a cycle so that the wood has some time to cook. It's effectively a small hot kiln, that will release steam for a few hours until the temperature drops enough to open the draft door, and then you're burning dry wood and charcoal and get very little smoke. I will not load the firebox at the low end of a cycle unless I want great big clouds of dense gray-brown smoke from wet wood, bark and steam.
 
I got a bin of Ashtrol from my dealer. does any one use this product? You put a scoop of powder on top of the wood (2-3 Tbsp) This will dry up the creosote and make it fall off into the fire. I used it once and some of the bigger stuff did come off. The tar looking stuff will burn off when it gets colder out. Mine is not too bad yet. Been lit up for 2 weeks.

LT...
 
It will burn

Hi guys, Yes the black tar in an OWB takes care of itself.(in my case anyway) In my case it builds like most of you have stated in those warmer days. I burn green wood that creates a much blacker, sticky, tary fire box than most but when it gets cold the forced air works more frequently and cooks it out. I don't remove it clean it scrape it or anymore even give it a second look. I was worried the first couple of years but never have had a problem. If you have damper control/ forced air control once the unit reaches temp it will cut the air preventing the runnaway burning that you get with house hold chimmney fires. You may get some hot sparks from the stack when she if really cooking. Two days ago the temp dropped here and I did the normal open the draft/ ash door and then the fire box to fill the H4. If you don't vent the unburn vapor she will back draft right at you. It restarted the smoldering fire when I opened the door and got the creosote cooking before I got her full. It was a 3-4 foot bright orange flame out the stack until I got her closed up and then back to smoldering. I have heard and read about the newer units eliminating such build up problems but that would require me to switch to seasoned wood and I want no part of that!! Happy Burning. The Hoosier



Sharpen your chain its a jungle out there!!!!!
 
I have a Shaver 165 and the chimney extends down in the firebox approx 1/4 way in from the back. I mistakenly built the first fire in the back of the stove instead of the front and the flames went directly up the chimney instead of off to the sides and in the front where it rolls back down in the chimney and then out. Nice blue flame about a foot out the top until the draft motor shut off..

:jawdrop:
 

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