Flat files for rakers

[Sprig]

The vinegar is an mild acid it loosens up the metal filings that are stuck in between the teeth of the file.

Actually you should card them before doing it, the acid 'sharpens' the worn teeth somewhat



Serge

 

[charlesfarm]

Thanks for all the advice!

I've been using the newer 72LGX chains from Oregon. The rakers are blued and seem to be a *LOT* harder than they ever did on the 72LG chains.

I've looked closely and the files aren't getting clogged with shavings, but the "ridges" are all flattened out where I've been filing.

Now ... after reading the posts, I think my "technique" needs a lot of improvement. :monkey:

I've been pressing quite hard on the file when doing the rakers. How much pressure should I be applying when filing those things?

And ... I've been known to occasionally drag the file on the raker on the back stroke

God bless,
Chris

 

[Crofter]

Use heavy pressure, you do more damage by have it slide over while not cutting or on pulling back. I have had chain right off the roll that had rakers very hard on one side. heat treat varies and the cutters are not always the same. Chains like that, if you are using one of the grinders you would likely do the rakers with the grinder. If you want to get fancy you can have a wheel contoured to reshape the profile as well as shorten the top. This is important if you are doing a lot of bore cutting. I am seeing a lot of files from India and China that are pure junk.

 

[pgg]

Yeah chain rakers versus files, a non win situation, all files die a quick death on rakers, no way out of it, a rooted file is a rooted file, might be a good business to get into, melt 'em all down and .. and.. damn , still can't think of anything useful for a rooted file

 

[charlesfarm]

I think I'll just use my northern grinder for doing the rakers at home, and save my flat files for "emergency raker lowering" in the field.

I don't really want to be going through a $2.50 flat file every time I do the rakers on two chains

 

[2dogs]

Dig deep and make your file cut! Don't just scratch the surface or you will dull the file.

 

[SawTroll]

...
And ... I've been known to occasionally drag the file on the raker on the back stroke

God bless,
Chris

:jawdrop: Files are ruined in very short order if you do that!

 

[user 19670]

Actually you should card them before doing it, the acid 'sharpens' the worn teeth somewhat



Serge

Mythbusters -- Where are you when we need you?

Vinegar is typically 5% Acetic Acid by volume. You could soak a file for a year in vinegar and nothing is going to happen that can be measured.
In the past, files have been 'restored' by soaking them in acid but it is full strength. Phosphoric acid and sulphuric acid come to mind offhand. This was a method that gained popularity during the war years.

About 20 years ago my ex-workplace was collecting files to send for re-sharpening and was buying re-sharpened files cheaper than new ones. An acid bath was used by the supplier to accomplish the re-sharpening.

 

[Sprig]

Mythbusters -- Where are you when we need you?

Vinegar is typically 5% Acetic Acid by volume. You could soak a file for a year in vinegar and nothing is going to happen that can be measured.
In the past, files have been 'restored' by soaking them in acid but it is full strength. Phosphoric acid and sulphuric acid come to mind offhand. This was a method that gained popularity during the war years.

About 20 years ago my ex-workplace was collecting files to send for re-sharpening and was buying re-sharpened files cheaper than new ones. An acid bath was used by the supplier to accomplish the re-sharpening.

My bad, knew it was some sort of acid, I imagine old batery acid would work, probably Coke would too seeing what it does ta teeth an' all.



Serge

 

[Stihl 041S]

Gordie; So right you are. We send out hundreds of files to be resharpened witnh acid. I'll check price if anybody wants to know.
Rob

 

[goatchin]

how often do you guys usually take down the rakers? I've been doing it every 3 sharpenings or so (no less but sometimes i'll let them go a bit longer).

The Pferd (sp) files i use (both the round and flat raker files) seem to hold up well...i found a new oregon round file in my toolbox still in the paper the other day-have to try that one out and see how it lasts compared to the pferd files

 

[pgg]

With new oregon LG chain, the day before you use it, it only cuts about 50% efficient from the box, stihl chain being a bit better but even it can do with a touch up first, from then on just keeping up with the teeth wearing down, depending on how much life you decide to wring out from your chains, when the teeth are waay down, like say 3mm of cutter left, you're wanting all the bite you can get by then, I junk my chains way before then though, too much hassle keeping them sharp when too worn, they get blunt in half an hour of easy cutting, waste of energy and effort, go for a new one there, but over the whole life of the chain, knock the drags down about 5 or 6 times maybe, the final few just by eye as the chain's pretty much knackered by then anyway

 

[scotclayshooter]

With new oregon LG chain, the day before you use it, it only cuts about 50% efficient from the box, stihl chain being a bit better but even it can do with a touch up first, from then on just keeping up with the teeth wearing down, depending on how much life you decide to wring out from your chains, when the teeth are waay down, like say 3mm of cutter left, you're wanting all the bite you can get by then, I junk my chains way before then though, too much hassle keeping them sharp when too worn, they get blunt in half an hour of easy cutting, waste of energy and effort, go for a new one there, but over the whole life of the chain, knock the drags down about 5 or 6 times maybe, the final few just by eye as the chain's pretty much knackered by then anyway

I sharpen every last bit of chain usually past the marks! I use them for when we cut stumps off below ground level.
Used up a whole chain taking out the roots of a leylandia loads cheaper and quicker than getting the hired likely blunt stump grinder!

 

[pgg]

Yep, for sure, worn out chains, good for sand, silt, mud etc.. use em' and abuse em'

 

[Crofter]

With new oregon LG chain, the day before you use it, it only cuts about 50% efficient from the box, stihl chain being a bit better but even it can do with a touch up first, from then on just keeping up with the teeth wearing down, depending on how much life you decide to wring out from your chains, when the teeth are waay down, like say 3mm of cutter left, you're wanting all the bite you can get by then, I junk my chains way before then though, too much hassle keeping them sharp when too worn, they get blunt in half an hour of easy cutting, waste of energy and effort, go for a new one there, but over the whole life of the chain, knock the drags down about 5 or 6 times maybe, the final few just by eye as the chain's pretty much knackered by then anyway

Pgg; What percentage of efficiency can you add by touching it up those new chains? file or grinder?

 

[pgg]

Hey Crof, disregarding percentages, we'll need a proper scientific study on that one, but lightly skim the drags on a brand new chain, you'll feel it cutting better straight away

 

[2dogs]

I sharpen every last bit of chain usually past the marks! I use them for when we cut stumps off below ground level.
Used up a whole chain taking out the roots of a leylandia loads cheaper and quicker than getting the hired likely blunt stump grinder!

Yep, stump chain.