Heavy leaning trees

[smokechase II]

Veneer cutting

2dogs:

With regard to:

"We Cut A lot Of Veneer Tress In This Area And I Bore The Centers Out And Use The Root Flanges To Hold The Tree Up Then I Cut The Front And Then The Back Flanges You Can Use The Root Flanges To Swing The Trees This Is Probably The Safest Method For Hardwoods This Also gets You Get Low On The Stump Easier"

*****************

There is a cutting technique where there is no face or a very very small face, and then the entire center of the tree is bored (wedge supported as needed - not driven hard but just pinching prevention),
leaving typically four corners to cut in a manner that allows for a little control.
Emphasis is on "with the lean".


Pro: saves all the butt log that doesn't break. No hinge pull, no face defect. The lowest stump possible.

Con: reduced control, log breakage increased if on taller trees - topography, death to faller due to loss of directional control.

******************

I do not believe this is an approved falling method by anyone other than those wanting that perfect butt hardwood log who own the mill. I have never heard of it on the West Coast.


----------------------

However, it does seem logical that this method would have a substantially reduced barber chair risk.

 

[2dogs]

2dogs:

With regard to:

"We Cut A lot Of Veneer Tress In This Area And I Bore The Centers Out And Use The Root Flanges To Hold The Tree Up Then I Cut The Front And Then The Back Flanges You Can Use The Root Flanges To Swing The Trees This Is Probably The Safest Method For Hardwoods This Also gets You Get Low On The Stump Easier"

*****************

There is a cutting technique where there is no face or a very very small face, and then the entire center of the tree is bored (wedge supported as needed - not driven hard but just pinching prevention,
leaving typically four corners to cut in a manner that allows for a little control.


Pro: saves all the butt log that doesn't break. No hinge pull, no face defect. The lowest stump possible.

Con: reduced control, log breakage increased if on taller trees - topography, death to faller due to loss of directional control.

******************

I do not believe this is an approved falling method by anyone other than those wanting that perfect butt log who own the mill.

Thanks!
I'll pass.

 

[gink595]

Yeah I'd have to pass on that also, I've tried the no face cut and lost control and landed it on a buddy in a skid steer. One of the most frieghtening moments I've had with a chainsaw. For me it's three cuts or more! I like my odds better

 

[Burvol]

So why do they call that cut a sheep's ____________Bleep?

 

[joesawer]

So why do they call that cut a sheep's ____________Bleep?

Shhhhh............. Trade Secret.
It is one of the few tricks not on the net.
These guys have allready gone nuts with a bore and strap cut, trying to be "advanced fallers" don't F--- them up with something like that.

 

[Gologit]

Hey Burvol and Joesawyer

Shhhhh............. Trade Secret.
It is one of the few tricks not on the net.
These guys have allready gone nuts with a bore and strap cut, trying to be "advanced fallers" don't F--- them up with something like that.

ROFL....Let's not make it too complicated for them. It must be hard to fall that back east timber with a saw in one hand and the Game of Logging handbook in the other. Let's work on keeping it simple.

 

[2dogs]

ROFL....Let's not make it too complicated for them. It must be hard to fall that back east timber with a saw in one hand and the Game of Logging handbook in the other. Let's work on keeping it simple.

DANG IT! That made me spew Coke on the keyboard.

 

[Lakeside53]

The real world

Is this leaning enough for this thread - a freebie for a neighbor... 50 feet, 16" dbh..


No.. I don't want to fell it straight out into the lake - way too hard to recover. It needs to fall at 90 degrees - along the "shore".

Face cut - keep it level...

"Cheating".... rope high up in the alder (big shot..) to a snatch block up in the doug fir.. 150 feet to the truck. Why - the alder was leaning 10 degrees to the "wrong way"... and wedging is just to risky considerng I'm boring the center of the hinge out. I did put a wedge in in case the guy in the truck slacked off the tension. Blowing out to the back (the uncut part facing me) is real likelyhood in alder..

Down... Mostly where I wanted it. You can see the boring of the center. Only about 1 1/4 inch of hinge, wider at the back for tension support, and the entire tree split below the cut.

They look so small when down... So why did it take 4 hours to haul it all out!

 

[Dennis Cahoon]

Is this leaning enough for this thread - a freebie for a neighbor... 50 feet, 16" dbh..


No.. I don't want to fell it straight out into the lake - way too hard to recover. It needs to fall at 90 degrees - along the "shore".

Face cut - keep it level....



Down... Mostly where I wanted it. You can see the boreing of the center.

They look so small when down... So why did it take 4 hours to haul it all out!

Lakeside.....Stick to building saws because you don't know how to fell a leaner!

First off....."Face cut keep it level"......Not! Angle a Humbolt undercut down about 20 to 30 degrees to the far side. "Mostly where I wanted it" Obviously, your hinge broke off way to soon and it went right in the lake.....but not straight in......Hahahahahahahaha!

For a real heavy rotten leaner......No undercut.....Cut in the face until it starts to bind......Triangle cut it from each side to the hinge area.....then cut the backcut as normal. BammmmO.....down and no barber chair.

 

[Lakeside53]

You may be right.. but it went where I wanted it do (along the shore - there is no dry land - the fir is in the way), and no barber pole above the cut...


The hard part was coordinating with the guy pulling... he wasn't listening. He floored it, I quit cutting and got the heck out of the way... I'll blame him for the split.

 

[pgg]

For tipping leaners where you want em' you can't beat the good ole multi-tree drive, a lost art nowadays thanks to the armies of strutting rule-book thumping academics in their glaring shiny helmets and blindingly bright blaze yellow jackets, scarf em', rig em' and set em' for the domino effect, the more trees involved the merrier..

 

[2dogs]

I've taken down a ton of red alders in our river but none above 12" DBH. None have split I guess because they are so small. From what I have read and seen here on AS I feel better prepared for bigger alders. Thanks for haring the pics. BTW you should have an excavator around for those kind of trees.

 

[gink595]

For tipping leaners where you want em' you can't beat the good ole multi-tree drive, a lost art nowadays thanks to the armies of strutting rule-book thumping academics in their glaring shiny helmets and blindingly bright blaze yellow jackets, scarf em', rig em' and set em' for the domino effect, the more trees involved the merrier..

I just tried that for fun the other day, I have a bunch 200-300 small Ash trees that have to go so tried it on a cluster and it was interesting, I ended up having to push some with the bobcat. Might give it another whirl. And for the trying to fell with one hand while reading the logging manual with the other... I'm velcroing my book to the air filter cover so I have two hands to rip and read

 

[smokechase II]

Outside of a rope

Lakeside:

Outside of a rope, I'm not sure you could have gotten it any further up on the bank.

Don't hang your head just yet.

***************

Here is a question for the good of the order:

Does dropping a leaning tree that far off the lean reduce the barber chair risk?

 

[joesawer]

Here is a question for the good of the order:

Does dropping a leaning tree that far off the lean reduce the barber chair risk?[/QUOTE]




Yes. It can still pull a lot of fiber (as the pics show) but it really slows the early part of the fall.

 

[ropensaddle]

Here is a question for the good of the order:

Does dropping a leaning tree that far off the lean reduce the barber chair risk?

Yes. It can still pull a lot of fiber (as the pics show) but it really slows the early part of the fall.[/QUOTE]

I concur, I also would have used my winch on that tree and put it
right where I wanted it The redirect is what messed you
up! I would have pulled almost straight back but to one side a little, the side I wanted it to swing. I call it snubbing but what
ever you want to call it, it works well. It prevents the tree from
going a direction unintended ,and can be combined with a secondary pull, to start the swing. The snubbing rope must be
strong enough to hold the weight and tightened , it will act
as a hinge in the event holding wood shears!

 

[Lakeside53]

What was interesting with this tree was that the split stated way before the tree closed the face cut. I should have put my waders on and got into a better position, but..

One day I'll find a bunch of big leaners in the middle of an open field so I can practise.



Here'a couple more pics for the discussion.

Most of the branches are on the lake side, and to the south (I'm felling to the north).

Closer shot of the base:

 

[ropensaddle]

What was interesting with this tree was that the split stated way before the tree closed the face cut. I should have put my waders on and got into a better position, but..

One day I'll find a bunch of big leaners in the middle of an open field so I can practise.



Here'a couple more pics for the discussion.

Most of the branches are on the lake side, and to the south (I'm felling to the north).

Closer shot of the base:

Heavy leaner's pulled and not snubbed will do that 90% of the time.

 

[ropensaddle]

A snubbing rope can be manipulated to swing a leaner, and with adequate
pull, could have moved that tree completely into the woods! The snubbing
actually if placed in the right position will get tighter as the tree starts to
fall and then the pull rope can maneuver the tree more controlled!
In this set up, the snub rope would be straight against the lean and
slightly opposite the planned direction of fall, then the pull rope
will pull the tree and the snub rope will tighten on its own, to swing
the tree in the desired location!