Hey Carvingmark

[poleframer]

Read yer profile, Could I see some of yer log home stuff? Heres a couple pics explaining my handle, my work on the front of the sawshop my bud, and saw dealer built. Probably the nicest sawshop in Oregon.
A couple of carports, and the framing of my dutch-hip shop roof (milled enough fir to side it last fall)
Russell

 

[poleframer]

Couple more of my shop, scored a couple of good Doug Fir sticks to mill for siding, just need to do trim,battons,and doors.
Do you build log homes? Got a friend who has been workin at his for a couple a years (8 now),dug into a ridge. Here's the daylight basement portion of it, prolly help him this summer on the top (the house).
Russell

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

Nice work. Man- what a view. Almost story book...

I love timber and pole framed structures. When I get around building myself a house from the ground up it will be timber frame. There just something about it that's enchanting.

 

[carvinmark]

Your stuff looks real nice.I like the pole frame look.Do you peel your own logs? Your friends log is gonna be a big place when he gets it done,love hand scribed logs. I don't build log homes, I build and install log staircases, railings, mantles, trim, furniture, ect.. I call it log home accessories,basically everything except the structure itself. I have helped build a couple log homes and one post and beam home. My business takes me into multi million dollar homes at various stages of completion. Most of these places I would never get a chance to see if it wasn't for what I do.I'll post some pics next week of my log stuff. Look in the picture forum to see my carvings.We have a festival going on and I gotta be there all weekend chainsaw carving.:greenchainsaw: :greenchainsaw: :greenchainsaw: :rockn:

 

[carvinmark]

Read yer profile, Could I see some of yer log home stuff? Heres a couple pics explaining my handle, my work on the front of the sawshop my bud, and saw dealer built. Probably the nicest sawshop in Oregon.
A couple of carports, and the framing of my dutch-hip shop roof (milled enough fir to side it last fall)
Russell

I posted pics in the picture forum. Mark

 

[poleframer]

You asked if I skin my poles- yep, cut em, load em, and skin with a spud if their wet and the bark peels off easy, otherwise I use a log wizard (helps to dull the blades so it dosnt cut into the wood much)
Need to get my but in gear this fall (cant cut soon, fire season here), and get in more than a few loads of poles. How do you get your material?

 

[carvinmark]

You asked if I skin my poles- yep, cut em, load em, and skin with a spud if their wet and the bark peels off easy, otherwise I use a log wizard (helps to dull the blades so it dosnt cut into the wood much)
Need to get my but in gear this fall (cant cut soon, fire season here), and get in more than a few loads of poles. How do you get your material?

I was in the swamp last weekend cutting a few cedar posts,I usually buy in bulk from suppliers locally(80 mi.).I couldn't post those pics earlier cause I was at a yard getting some 16'X10" cedar posts. These guys only harvest the Cedar when the swamps are frozen,as in 0 degree or less weather,don't know how they stand it.The pine we use is all over here, I cut some down and buy already cut also. We use the log wizard to size larger poles and I use it to debark for the mill and for carving,you would be surprised how good they work for carving.

Oh yes, wet and fresh is the best for debarking in my opinion also.

 

[poleframer]

Might be jumping back and forth between the threads, but I like the discussion. I usually spike or lag my joints, but have done some with internal steel splines (then bolted with countersunk bridge washers). How are your stairs attached?

 

[carvinmark]

Might be jumping back and forth between the threads, but I like the discussion. I usually spike or lag my joints, but have done some with internal steel splines (then bolted with countersunk bridge washers). How are your stairs attached?

I use countersunk lags with construction adheasive,never used the steel splines,looks interesting.I see you are building a gable end,I have to build one for a house in N.C. and I should be getting the dimentions next week.I need to build it then disassemble to ship.I have never done this off site before so I am planing on building a giant jig for this one,I'm a little worried about shrinkage after it leaves here. Customer (a local log home company) is to supply kiln dried Red Pine,not sure if it will be 8" or 10" dia.Never seen a log that diameter that was done drying,What do you think? I have already warned them about shrinking,this is the part I do not enjoy about my business.
On the bottom of my staircases I let them float with just a couple of 3" drywall screws to allow for the house and the staircase to shrink.

 

[poleframer]

As you know, they wont shrink lingthwise, and I've found that poles dont shrink so much in diameter , they check. If they dry fast the checks can get fairly large. Hav'nt tried it but I've heard of running a skilsaw lingthwise on a non-showing side of a log to pick where the check will be.
If you used the steel spline method there would be a little wiggle room in installation before tightening the bolts. I used 3/8" plate steel, plunge cut the notches,and when I put it together I had predrilled the steel, but locating the holes after assembly is a pain(even with patterns that I lined up). From now on I plan to use long bits and do all the drilling after its together.
Russell

 

[carvinmark]

As you know, they wont shrink lingthwise, and I've found that poles dont shrink so much in diameter , they check. If they dry fast the checks can get fairly large. Hav'nt tried it but I've heard of running a skilsaw lingthwise on a non-showing side of a log to pick where the check will be.
If you used the steel spline method there would be a little wiggle room in installation before tightening the bolts. I used 3/8" plate steel, plunge cut the notches,and when I put it together I had predrilled the steel, but locating the holes after assembly is a pain(even with patterns that I lined up). From now on I plan to use long bits and do all the drilling after its together.
Russell

My top posts will be flat sided with a relief cut in the center of the flat.I'm concerned about mine sitting around for,oh,lets say a month or more before someone tries to reassemble them.Sounds like a good idea to drill everything in place. When I have a bolt that will be seen,I drill a 1,1/2" hole for the countersink,then 3/8" center hole.If you drill the smaller hole first it is almost impossible to keep a fostner bit centered.Then plug the hole to make it look like it is pinned together.I have been trying to post a pic for you but it wont upload-Oh well.
Mark

 

[poleframer]

If your forstner bits have replacable centers (mine do) you can make pilots on 1/4" shafts of various sizes for countersinking after a large through hole is drilled.That way if your thru hole has to move a bit in fitup, the washer fits to the bolt and its hole better.
Russell

 

[carvinmark]

If your forstner bits have replacable centers (mine do) you can make pilots on 1/4" shafts of various sizes for countersinking after a large through hole is drilled.That way if your thru hole has to move a bit in fitup, the washer fits to the bolt and its hole better.
Russell

I do that with self feedeing bits, They have a replacable center, But don't cut as nice as the fostner bits. Mark