Homelite Super EZ manual oiler problems!

[woodsman60]

I'm a new user and I have a question on my 1978 Homelite Super EZ manual oiler pump. I purchased this saw new in 78 and have cut a lot of wood with no problems until now. I filled the reservoir with summer bar oil today which I have done many times in our central WI winters without any problems. Today when I pushed the manual thumb pump bar oiler in, it stuck in the in position. I did manage to cut up 2 trees before the automatic oiler couldn't keep the bar and chain from heating up so I had to switch over to my Husky 261. When I got back to the shop tonight I removed the oiler and with some difficulty managed to get the spring out. There didn't seem to be anything wrong with it. My Dad has about a 1970 Homlite with a motor that doesn't run and I pulled out the oiler on it and compared the two. The only difference I could see was maybe the parts saw's O-ring on the end looked to be in a little better shape. So I stretched the spring to make it an extra 1/4" longer so the oiler would maybe push back out easier and installed it into my saw. When I pushed it in with my thumb it again stuck in the in position. Considering that the two saws' oiler parts show no difference in wear such as mine being broken or worn badly and that I have used winter and summer bar chain oil in this saw since it was new without a problem, does anyone think that I could fix this problem by draining the bar oil and replacing with cold weather oil? I do have the saw in the house tonight warming up to see if this would be the case. Or does anyone have another idea? Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[lawnmowertech37]

is this your plunger you talking about ?

http://www.cmsmallengines.net/plunger.html


also i have any of the parts that may be in that oil line its possible this part has decided to freeze up on you it may not be the oil its possible its wear and tear on the plunger itself

but wait till you know for sure at least you know i have the parts if you need them

thanks
calvin

 

[tomtrees58]

back in the day we climb with them but now there just junk parts are hard to come by i still have a ez saw but its on the wall with a mac 6 the old days of tree service good luck tom trees

 

[woodsman60]

Thanks lawnmowertech37,
Yes that looks like the parts. If I can't get it pumping right after a little more tinkering I might be looking for new parts. I still like using that saw for smaller trees due to it's light weight. I don't get wore out so fast that way.

tomtrees58,
Between my Dad and myself we've acquired 4 of these old Homelite Super EZ's from family and friends over the years and 3 still run!

 

[habanero]

I've had that situation happen once in a while. Usually, just taking it apart and cleaning the plunger and barrel fixes it. I imagine a small chunk of something gets stuck down alongside the o-ring. I bet if you put it back together it will be fine now.

 

[woodsman60]

Today I emptied out the oil reservoir and worked on getting the lower spring with the O-ring attached back out. I then twice poured a very small amount of gas down the hole, let it soak a minute and blew it out into a shop rag with compressed air hoping that if there was some dirt or something inside it would blow out. It looked clean as far as I could tell and I couldn't see any damage to the inside wall of the hole. Then I poured a little oil inside the hole and I put the spring assembly and the plunger unit back in and tightened it. I then put some winter bar oil back in the reservoir and tried the manual pump and I got the same result, the plunger stuck in again. Now I am kind of at a loss for ideas. Does anyone think that replacing the plunger and spring assembly with new parts is going to do anything for me. When I inspected the the old one today again I can't see anything wrong with them. Unless new O-rings would be more pliable and therefore would slide somewhat easier inside the tube and let the spring push it back out, I don't know. Anybody got any ideas?
Thanks in advance.

 

[habanero]

Unless the spring is completely broken, it isn't likely the source of your problem. Likewise, I don't see the plunger itself being the issue, since the o-rings are what actually contacts the barrel.

I think I'd throw some new o-rings on the plunger before getting too much further. They're cheap and easy to get and replace. It's been too long since I've been into my SuperEZ oiler to remember the size, but I know the last time I replaced them on mine I had a couple in my assortment that worked just fine, so any hardware store should have something comparable.

When you're noticing the plunger sticking, are you able to pull it back out or is it bound so solid you can't even pull it out without taking it apart?

 

[Modifiedmark]

Theres 2 check valves in that system, and I'm guessing one is bad and not releasing and causing a vaccume making the plunger stay depressed.

 

[woodsman60]

habanero; (When you're noticing the plunger sticking, are you able to pull it back out or is it bound so solid you can't even pull it out without taking it apart?)

It's been coming out by light prying ( in a circular motion) around the plastic end cap piece connected to the O-ring, but again each time it gets increasingly difficult to get it out. Right now it's stuck in again and I'll try to get it out this afternoon.

 

[woodsman60]

Modifiedmark;

(Theres 2 check valves in that system, and I'm guessing one is bad and not releasing and causing a vaccume making the plunger stay depressed.)

Modifiedmark or anyone,
Where are the 2 check valves located. Does anyone have a parts diagram or picture of what I'm looking for? I'm pretty sure most or all of the parts from the older saw would fit. I'm going to the shop now to try and get the spring assembly out again and will snap a picture of it and the saw but I'm not sure I'll be able to figure out how to upload it unto this thread.

Thanks so much for all info so far!!

 

[habanero]

I was wondering if the plunger was binding in the bore when I asked about how hard it was to get out. It doesn't sound like that's the case from your description.

I don't have an IPL with me, but if I remember right the inlet check valve is part of the fitting where the oil line from the tank attaches to the oiler body. If that wasn't opening, it could certainly be causing vacuum to build in the oiler.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Modifiedmark;

(Theres 2 check valves in that system, and I'm guessing one is bad and not releasing and causing a vaccume making the plunger stay depressed.)

Modifiedmark or anyone,
Where are the 2 check valves located. Does anyone have a parts diagram or picture of what I'm looking for? I'm pretty sure most or all of the parts from the older saw would fit. I'm going to the shop now to try and get the spring assembly out again and will snap a picture of it and the saw but I'm not sure I'll be able to figure out how to upload it unto this thread.

Thanks so much for all info so far!!

There both inside the carb housing. the inline one coming from the tank is the inlet check valve, the 90deg one on top is the outlet check valve.

I think if you go to the edge and engine site (sponsor here on the main page) you can download the IPL there.

If not PM me a email address and I'll send you one.

 

[woodsman60]

Modifiedmark
Quote:

There both inside the carb housing. the inline one coming from the tank is the inlet check valve, the 90deg one on top is the outlet check valve.

I think if you go to the edge and engine site (sponsor here on the main page) you can download the IPL there.

If not PM me a email address and I'll send you one.

Thanks Modifiedmark,
Sorry it took me so long to get back but my job gets in the way sometimes. I tried to upload a picture of my saw with what I think are the check valves circled but I'm not sure it will work.

View attachment 90392
http://www.arboristsite.com/images/attach/jpg.gif

Although I think the parts in our parts saw will be OK, I found the parts list on edge and engine but on there they list those check valves as just the opposite, inlet 90 degree and outlet lower. Right now the spring assembly is still lodged inside the saw and I can't get it out. I tried taking off the lower fitting/outlet check valve figuring it may release any vacume built up to allow me to get the spring out but the spring still won't come out. Also the threads for this fitting on the lower oil line are completely unhooked but there is no clearance to actually unscrew that lower check valve out all the parts are touching each other inline and the nut for the oil line is up against the inside wall of the carburetor cavity. Any suggestions on this? I tried to loosen the 90 degree check valve but I'm afraid of breaking it off as I was putting quite a bit of pressure on it. Looking at it I don't think there's enough clearance to turn it out, if it is threaded, as the nipple for connecting oil line on will hit the inside of the saw casing. Is that 90 degree fitting pressed in from the top from the factory? Or is the little fitting the oil line connects to threaded or pull out to allow enough clearance to get the base turned out?

Thanks,
woodsman60

 

[lawnmowertech37]

i will be glad to setup a parts list for you on CD if you like

thanks
calvin

 

[Modifiedmark]

Modifiedmark
Quote:

There both inside the carb housing. the inline one coming from the tank is the inlet check valve, the 90deg one on top is the outlet check valve.

I think if you go to the edge and engine site (sponsor here on the main page) you can download the IPL there.

If not PM me a email address and I'll send you one.

Thanks Modifiedmark,
Sorry it took me so long to get back but my job gets in the way sometimes. I tried to upload a picture of my saw with what I think are the check valves circled but I'm not sure it will work.

View attachment 90392
http://www.arboristsite.com/images/attach/jpg.gif

Although I think the parts in our parts saw will be OK, I found the parts list on edge and engine but on there they list those check valves as just the opposite, inlet 90 degree and outlet lower. Right now the spring assembly is still lodged inside the saw and I can't get it out. I tried taking off the lower fitting/outlet check valve figuring it may release any vacume built up to allow me to get the spring out but the spring still won't come out. Also the threads for this fitting on the lower oil line are completely unhooked but there is no clearance to actually unscrew that lower check valve out all the parts are touching each other inline and the nut for the oil line is up against the inside wall of the carburetor cavity. Any suggestions on this? I tried to loosen the 90 degree check valve but I'm afraid of breaking it off as I was putting quite a bit of pressure on it. Looking at it I don't think there's enough clearance to turn it out, if it is threaded, as the nipple for connecting oil line on will hit the inside of the saw casing. Is that 90 degree fitting pressed in from the top from the factory? Or is the little fitting the oil line connects to threaded or pull out to allow enough clearance to get the base turned out?

Thanks,
woodsman60

I'm sorry, I got those backwards! The 90deg one is the inlet check valve and the lower straight one is the outlet check valve.

You will probably have to remove the handle to get enough room to remove the lower outlet check valve out.

Now I'm not saying that the valves are bad, remember I'm not there. If you belive that the manual plunger and O rings were good I was just giving my opinion of what else could be wrong with it.

If that spring is stuck thats not a good sign that all is well with the world.

 

[woodsman60]

We finally got the spring back out again and poked a piece of wire around inside the hole for the manual oiler. Then blew out the outlet line again with compressed air, put it back together and it's now working.

Thanks for everyone's help,
woodsman60