Huds new Aux Oiler

[BobL]

Back on the south coast for 3 days over The Australia Day Holiday Weekend and did a couple of small mods to Huds saw.

Firstly a new Aux Oiler in my usual irrigation fitting style

Here's a close up of the oil delivery point above the chain.

And here is a close up of a 1" length of 1.5" diam pipe that acts as a rub plate. It slips over the top of the vertical otherwise the corner of the vertical digs too far into bark etc.

The rub plate is locked into place vertically with a hex head screw at a height suited to how far thru the log the slabbing is happening and how thick the slab is. It's a bit like the white wheel on the BIL mill as in this picture, lower right hand image.

The more I use Huds (conventional) CS mill the more I appreciate the design and execution of the BIL Mill.

 

[mtngun]

I like your rub plate idea, and may borrow that.

In the states, you can buy the Granberg Oiler for about what it would cost to make your own from scratch.

Thanks for the excellent photos.

 

[BobL]

I like your rub plate idea, and may borrow that.

In the states, you can buy the Granberg Oiler for about what it would cost to make your own from scratch.

Thanks for the excellent photos.

Cheers mtngun.

If it were my mill, instead of a rub plate I'd be using a wheel. I have 4 wheels on the BIL mill and it makes it a lot easier to use.

I have not used a commercially made alaskan for an extensive period up until this month. I find the one I have been using is flimsy, stutters and jams as it is worked along the log and being clamped onto the bar has a reduced cutting length, ie only cuts 36" with a 42 inch bar where as mine cuts 39.5" with the same length bar.

The reason we made Huds oiler from irrigation parts was because I already had a "bucket of irrigation parts" and all I needed to buy was one adapter and the tap. I also like to have some form of visual fill indicator line so I can see how full the tank is without having to open the lid and dip something into it, also it helps when refilling, don'tcha just hate it when it overflows!!

 

[mtngun]

I'm sure the BIL mill is easier to operate. It appears to be quite the machine.

Yes, the Granberg is flimsy. Mine broke in two just from bouncing around in the back of the truck (well, the 500 pound log bouncing around beside it did not help).

However, I can carry the Granberg rig over rough terrain to reach a tree. There is something to be said for that.

The light weight came in handy on this outing. The 26" douglas fir was a good 60 yards up the hill from the road.

 

[BobL]

However, I can carry the Granberg rig over rough terrain to reach a tree. There is something to be said for that. [/IMG]

Sure does!

I've detachable pump up wheels on my big mill because I have to wheel it 35 yards down the side of my house to get it into the shed. I have wheeled it up to 100 yards into the bush to get to a log but getting it in and the boards out was a PITA.

 

[RON58]

How is the oiler working out dripping on the chain like that? Does it fling the oil off at all? I need to come up with a simple way and that seems to be pretty simple. I see they sell them that you need to drill the bar. Not sure what they look like. Can't find any close ups or instructions any place.

 

[mtngun]

The Granberg oiler uses a hollow bolt to dribble oil inside the bar groove.

I think it is a 5/16" bolt. You could probably make one with a drill press if you are careful. Drill a lengthwise hole stopping just short of the bolt head, then drill another hole perpendicular to the bolt about 1/8" above the bolt head.

It is a pain to drill the bar for the bolt (a carbide drill or end mill works best). The hole has to be located so that it barely nicks the bar groove, and clears the nose sprocket.

However, the Granberg system does work very well. It uses very little lube yet puts the oil where it is needed and reduces chain friction, effectively freeing up horsepower.

 

[BobL]

How is the oiler working out dripping on the chain like that? Does it fling the oil off at all? I need to come up with a simple way and that seems to be pretty simple. I see they sell them that you need to drill the bar. Not sure what they look like. Can't find any close ups or instructions any place.

It doesn't really drip, it weeps or wicks out and it works fine. I have made and used about a half dozen - bolt through bar and delivering oil into the groove - Aux Oilers.

Here is the one I use on my mill with the 60" bar.

Here is a description of my bolt-thru nose use on one of my 42" hardnose bars. Here is how it all fits together on the mill.

I prefer "Bolt through the bar" but this cannot be used on roller or sprocket nose bars without losing cutting length. I prefer to use a little more oil and keep all the cutting length I can get.