Husqvarna 350 Limiter Caps

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ChillyB

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Cut off the messed up plastic caps. The tiny screw ends have slots but I can’t imagine I’ll ever find them with a screwdriver. The bases of the screws are splined but unable to tell if splines match my tool. If I cut off the screw ends will the spline tool for Poulan carbs work?
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Try this kit before cutting the slotted drives off. These have fit every carb I have encountered so far on small 2 strokes. And also, them adjustment needles are sometimes specific to the model and year of saw. Example... the EPA model saws needles are different from the standard NON EPA models.

Personally, I prefer the slotted style so I don't have to carry around and maybe even loose the special tool compared to a cheap small screwdriver!

 
I see a lot of saws like that with the plastic limiters completely removed. You're right it's hard to find the slot with a screwdriver through the top cover. When I tune these, I remove the top cover so I can see the screw, and have no problem then.
 
I see a lot of saws like that with the plastic limiters completely removed. You're right it's hard to find the slot with a screwdriver through the top cover. When I tune these, I remove the top cover so I can see the screw, and have no problem then.
Be wary of doing that, especially with saws that utilize "air injection". Once you put the top cover back on the pressure around the air filter increases which will cause the saw to run leaner. I have seen it increase max RPM by several hundred
 
Be wary of doing that, especially with saws that utilize "air injection". Once you put the top cover back on the pressure around the air filter increases which will cause the saw to run leaner. I have seen it increase max RPM by several hundred
Several hundred rpm increase is a lot. Wow! Now that you mention this I will check the difference with a tach. Maybe I'm lucky then that I usually check the rpm with the top cover on.
 
Several hundred rpm increase is a lot. Wow! Now that you mention this I will check the difference with a tach. Maybe I'm lucky then that I usually check the rpm with the top cover on.
That was actually how I established it for myself... My tacho has a wire that wraps around the spark lead & so I was checking my tune with the cover off... retune... cover on... run saw... retune by ear...... eventually started wondering why it was fluctuating so did some experimentation, followed by a bit of research that confirmed for me it was a legit & I wasn't imagining it
 

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