I got a good question I dont find anywhere

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green thumb

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I had to cut down a Bradford Pear tree about three years ago and had the stump ground and before spring started I had to cut the other down due to one tree split down the middle of the trunk and the other split at a large branch.(anyway)BTW,these trees were in the front yard.I am looking to replant either Red Maples,Silver Maples,or a White Oaks.I usually buy my trees from local stores or nurseries so I know how they look before buying.

OK,I do a lot of looking on the net to see which trees I like(looks,function,shade,moderate care and so on.The only thing I don't see when buying trees from stores and the net is (WHAT THE TREES HABITS ARE)
What I mean is certain trees like Weeping Willows will root toward water as well as River Birches.What about White Oaks?Maples?The reason I ask is i have a water line runs through the middle of my front yard and a septic tank in the yard too.I dont want to buy a tree and years later find out the tree has rooted though my water line or septic tank.Any info on these type trees would be helpful,thanks in advance.
OH btw,I planted a two Blue Spruces back around six years ago and didn't plant them far enough apart(should be 30ft.Would it be safe to dig one up and replant or just leave it alone.They are about ten or twelve feet apart.When I figure out how to submit pics I'll send a pic of them as well as my pride Silver Maple that has done so well but needs pruning.
 
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dang the Maples

:popcorn: I'm not the expert, but my yard has a slew of maples, and I have recently been doing a lot of digging. Well, them thar maples have roots covering my entire yard about 4 to 10 inches below the grass line. I figure they suck up all the water we have, and may explain part of our poor performing lawn - not to mention how difficult it is to grow one with all the shade they throw off. As far as I am concerned, the maples are nothing but over sized weeds... How about asking your nursery what to plant? What was wrong with the Bradford Pears? Nice flowering tree in spring, grows well...
 
Forget about the lawn. Make oversized mulch areas. If your priority is a lawn your trees will be battling and stressing it for years. NO bradford pears either, they are not recomended anymore. There is a new strain similar that I suspect has better genetics. But, back to the original post. My solution is plant dwarf or understory trees--Japanese maple comes to mind. The roots will not be massive and shouldn't become a problem in the future.
 
The Bradford Pear trees were splitting,limbs as well as the crotch of one of my trees.If I had left the trees alone they would have eventually died from splitting limbs or the limbs would have fallen on the house.It wasn't a question of IF but when they would split.Yea,they are great shade trees as well as wind breakers but they don't hold up to wind and especially during storms.They had to go
 
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:popcorn: I'm not the expert, but my yard has a slew of maples, and I have recently been doing a lot of digging. Well, them thar maples have roots covering my entire yard about 4 to 10 inches below the grass line. I figure they suck up all the water we have, and may explain part of our poor performing lawn - not to mention how difficult it is to grow one with all the shade they throw off. As far as I am concerned, the maples are nothing but over sized weeds... How about asking your nursery what to plant? What was wrong with the Bradford Pears? Nice flowering tree in spring, grows well...

I got a pic of one Maple I planted behind my yard that had no problem growing(even without fertilizer)It didn't harm my lawn what so ever.
I'll show it in the pic section.
 
Forget about the lawn. Make oversized mulch areas. If your priority is a lawn your trees will be battling and stressing it for years. NO bradford pears either, they are not recomended anymore. There is a new strain similar that I suspect has better genetics. But, back to the original post. My solution is plant dwarf or understory trees--Japanese maple comes to mind. The roots will not be massive and shouldn't become a problem in the future.

Well a Japanese Maple dont suit my purpose.I want trees that grow tall enough to make for good wind breakers as well as shade.Its the front yard where the sun rises and the shade would reduce the heat coming through the windows.As far as lawn stress,I've never had a problem with lawn stress here with any trees I've planted so lawn stress is not a concern here.
 
:popcorn: I'm not the expert, but my yard has a slew of maples, and I have recently been doing a lot of digging. Well, them thar maples have roots covering my entire yard about 4 to 10 inches below the grass line. I figure they suck up all the water we have, and may explain part of our poor performing lawn - not to mention how difficult it is to grow one with all the shade they throw off. As far as I am concerned, the maples are nothing but over sized weeds... How about asking your nursery what to plant? What was wrong with the Bradford Pears? Nice flowering tree in spring, grows well...

Expect a large mature tree to take up appx. 150 gallons everyday.

Bradford pears are brittle and can not handle ice or wind. Its not a matter of "if" the tree will fail, it is "when". Much of the issue has to do with the fact all the branches originate from the same area of the trunk.

Trees often share their rhyzoshpere (rootzone) with the lawn. If you lime your lawn, the portion of the tree's roots within that area can no longer up-take certain elements. Altered ph will make the elements unavailable. The tree will decline.

Rebelman hit the nail. Increase the mulch ring/understory species.
 
Rebelman I was just looking at Japanese Maples today

Japanese Maples are beautiful ornamental trees.I might get one for the yard but from what I read they need partial shade.I love their leaves but am not sure how well they will grow in the morning light as hot as it gets here in S.C. I think I got a neighbor that might have one.(not sure)If his is growing fine I may consider getting one.BTW,they are way to expensive to plant and have it die...ehhh
 
Japanese Maples are beautiful ornamental trees.I might get one for the yard but from what I read they need partial shade.I love their leaves but am not sure how well they will grow in the morning light as hot as it gets here in S.C. I think I got a neighbor that might have one.(not sure)If his is growing fine I may consider getting one.BTW,they are way to expensive to plant and have it die...ehhh

I'm in Columbia.
My collection of Japanese maples are doing fine. Need filtered sun.
Trees will search for the water they need. They will breach lines if there is an opening for them. If your system is in good shape, plant what you want.
 
I'm in Columbia.
My collection of Japanese maples are doing fine. Need filtered sun.
Trees will search for the water they need. They will breach lines if there is an opening for them. If your system is in good shape, plant what you want.

OK,so in other words as long as the water supply line is not already leaking(which I would know)then it doesn't matter.
 
Tree roots can cause significant damage to the line if cambium expansion creates a rupture, ie sidewalks, but as far as tree roots being able to grow into an imperviously sealed water line, its improbable. The roots will surround it as it makes it way into the landscape to search for water.

The Quercus alba (white oak) you suggested would be a nice choice.
 
The Bradford Pear trees were splitting,limbs as well as the crotch of one of my trees.If I had left the trees alone they would have eventually died from splitting limbs or the limbs would have fallen on the house.It wasn't a question of IF but when they would split.Yea,they are great shade trees as well as wind breakers but they don't hold up to wind and especially during storms.They had to go

The Aristocrat variety of the Bradford Pear is supposed to do away with the ice/wind problem other Bradfords have. The crotches are more horizontal, so they don't have the included bark as the limbs grow.

They are, however, susceptible to fire blight...don't know if that's a problem in your area or not.

So if you'd like to keep pears, you might give them a shot.
 
Get "The Tree Book", by Jeff Meyer. He is the host of PBS Tree Stories. This book is a practical guide to selecting and maintaining the best trees for your yard and garden. Paid $2.99 @ Borders last Sept., book list for $25.00 U.S. & $36.00 Can.. This is a very good book to have.
 
Any and all trees will grow roots into a source of water, the leach lines of a septic system are great sources of water and nutrients.
Many types of maple grow roots that show above the ground and can be a real pita.
I personally love white oaks. I don't know the proper names for different variety's but the native east coast white oak is very strong and resists breaking extremely well. A variety sold through nurseries that seems common on the west coast and often in yards and old home sites back east are much more brittle and have a more broken and crooked form.
 
Check with your local health department that handles septic permits, they should have recommendations on what you can plant and how close it can be to you septic bed.
In my area its usually some type of pine tree because of the smaller root systems.

Ed
 
Get "The Tree Book", by Jeff Meyer. He is the host of PBS Tree Stories. This book is a practical guide to selecting and maintaining the best trees for your yard and garden. Paid $2.99 @ Borders last Sept., book list for $25.00 U.S. & $36.00 Can.. This is a very good book to have.


I may just do that.There are so many choices of trees to grow and now that I am older and a have learned a little more about what I want and don't want I find my choice of tree even more difficult.I don't want flowering trees, or fruit trees but trees that grow around 25 to 30' not shorter not taller(good shade trees).I need a tree that grows well in full sun, decorative and that don't grow limbs to close to the ground.They will be planted in the front lawn.
 
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