Jonsered 2238 vs Efco MT3500

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LarryRFL

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Okay, this is totally subjective and no pictures were taken to ensure the survival of the camera. Ran both saws on some soft wood, about 5 minutes of cutting per saw. 2238 with stock bar and chain (saw is about 6 months old). MT3500 right out of the box with 14" bar & stock chain. I'm not going into the specs on the saws, look it up yourselves. (While I have ran Efco's in the past, I have never ran this particular model.)

The 2238 is smaller in appearance, but there is not any noticeable difference in weight. Both saws feel well balanced. Being a "broke in" saw, the 2238 fired right up. It cut smoothly with little vibration and the usual excellent control of all Jonsereds. As expected, little to no debris in the filter once the cutting was done. Overall, a nice small saw with no surprises and the only real reason to run it was to have a fresh feel for it.

The MT3500, while it looks larger feel no heavier than the 2238. Well balance in the hand. No cheap feel. Put gas and oil in it, primed it and three pulls later it was fired up and running. Engine was performing fine without any tweaking of the carb. (Always have to tweak the carbs on Jonsereds when serviced out.) Cutting was strong with good control. Vibration was noticeably more than the Jonsered, but still very light. Though the rated rpm's is higher than the 2238, it cut slower but did not get bogged down. It reminded me of a Homelite Super 2, slow and steady. Stopped the saw with the choke to see how it would start when flooded. Couple of pulls and back in action. Shut down normally, one pull and fired right back up. Filter had very little debris when finished, very similar to the 2238. Complaint - Removing the top cover to service the filter or plug requires loosening three screw, one located at the front of the saw and have to pull the brake handle way back to get to. With the little bit of debris the filter gets, it is a miner annoyance, but could be improved on.

Since both saw list at $199, which would I buy? Actually the MT3500. Before you jump all over me, let me defend myself. Every 2238 I have sold, I have had to put inserts in the housing for the top cover screws. Every screw pulled out and had to put new inserts in. Several have had the fuel filter fall off, so now we remove the filter, cut the hose back a little and re-install the filter. I've become a little soured on the model. Once the problems with the 2238 are fixed, it's a good small saw, but when every saw has to be fixed right out of the box there is a problem. Another reason I have mixed feelings with the TSC deal.
 
I cant speak to the efco, but as a Jonsered dealer I wont sell the 2238, its a toilet, every one I've ever had for service from the other area dealers has been lean siezed or oiler non functional. If you want a quality small saw find a used Shindaiwa 360 or 377, even a 352 with the fully adjustable carb is good.
 
I cant speak to the efco, but as a Jonsered dealer I wont sell the 2238, its a toilet, every one I've ever had for service from the other area dealers has been lean siezed or oiler non functional. If you want a quality small saw find a used Shindaiwa 360 or 377, even a 352 with the fully adjustable carb is good.

Ordered them with my initial dealer order. I'd been out of the loop for eight years, so I had some catching up to do. Had the 2138's before with no problems. Didn't think the 2238 be as bad as it was. Won't order any more, that's for sure.
 
I have Oleo Mac GS 350 = Efco MT 3500. I have had it for about 1/2 year now. I bought it for my FIL place as a light saw there. They live 400km away and I didn't always want to take along a saw. It was my first saw from the Emak(Efco and Oleo Mac are a part of it) corporation. I was so convinced that I bought my TH from them as well. My saw came with a cat muffler. With the cat it sure got hot like all cat saws. I have removed the cat in the mean time. I haven't had the time for a MM and retune yet but it was much more responsive since I lost the cat. I will have to do a review when I finally have time for something. :angry:

7
 
Same here. They NEVER run right. At least not for very long. I don't want anything to do with them, Red or Orange.

We had one we beat the piss out of and it was reliable. But I agree for anything more than the occasional branch in the yard I wouldn't recommend one. There are better options for around the same money out there.
 
Same here. They NEVER run right. At least not for very long. I don't want anything to do with them, Red or Orange.
Why do you suppose? The design is very simple and straightforward, typical Husky construction for a plastic chassis saw.
 
What causes these to start to run poorly? I have one on my bench right now... A buddy of mine got one from his wife after Xmas, now it doesn't work worth a... you know.
 
Well I started to do some investigation on this thing, seems like the crazy splined H and L carb screws were wayyy out from where they should be, so I baselined each at 1 turn out. Now plug is too dry, seems to not be getting enough gas.... Bulb primer was also clogged, fixed that but the sucker still won't fire. Finding it hard to figure out a way to get that carb off! What a PITA to work on!!
 
Well I started to do some investigation on this thing, seems like the crazy splined H and L carb screws were wayyy out from where they should be, so I baselined each at 1 turn out. Now plug is too dry, seems to not be getting enough gas.... Bulb primer was also clogged, fixed that but the sucker still won't fire. Finding it hard to figure out a way to get that carb off! What a PITA to work on!!

The adjustment tools are available on eBay...there are a few different versions. The H - L screws on all carbs seem to be set way too lean from the factory.....epa-compliant? I always run in to the seat, and back out 1 1/2 turns, set the idle a little higher, and than fiddle with the carb until it is idling, chain is still, and the engine screams at WOT. This procedure is typical of any 2-cycle unit that hits my bench.......dozens a month. Sounds like a common carb problem is getting that J-red labeled improperly. Also, I am reading further. The bulb was clogged? with what? dirty fuel? than the entire carb should be disassembled, cleaned, and get a new $6 kit. I'd replace the filter pick-up and lines when ever they are right there and readily accessible. BTW, may I also suggest you scribe the screws with a strong line, so you always know where your baseline is. Good Luck!
 
Modern carbs on the small saws need more than one turn out! Often two to three turns deoending on model!!!

Good luck!

7
 
We had one we beat the piss out of and it was reliable. But I agree for anything more than the occasional branch in the yard I wouldn't recommend one. There are better options for around the same money out there.
Same here-I beat the balls off mine, never an issue...Not one.
 

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